Santa brought me a Russian STV 40 in great shape

[Smoke4320]

Santa brought me a Russian SVT 40 in great shape
1942 Tula
after a lot of cleaning the bore looks real good
bluing is excellent
Stock has 2 well done patches ( 1 on the toe and on the right side at back of the receiver almost like it had the PU scope mount but on the wrong side) and lots of arsenal marks so it saw some service..
only draw back is the receiver is not grooved for the factory SVT scope mount
Pics will follow tomorrow ..

[tomme boy]

Sweet!

[Garyshome]

Merry Christmas!

[texassako]

Great rifles and lots of fun. I sold mine after using up most of my surplus ammo in it since it chewed up reloadable brass in just a few reloads. It shot cast pretty well using Garand loads as a basis and tuning the gas valve to the load. Here are 2 items you will probably be needing for it: http://www.ppsh41.com/SVTitems.html though the valve is out of stock.

[Smoke4320]

Texassako
I would assume the gas piston needs to be screwed all the way in to the block?

[texassako]

Texassako
I would assume the gas piston needs to be screwed all the way in to the block?

It was screwed all the way in until tight, and was seized up the first time I took it apart. It will back out if loose. The piston and cup were very pitted inside even though the rest of the rifle was in very good condition. My gas valve went to 2, and it took that to cycle correctly with the old parts. It ran much smoother with the replacements, and at a lower 1.3 gas setting. I forgot where I found the proper steel gas tool, but I made one when I first acquired it by drilling a hole in some scrap steel and using a small file to work it into the proper 5 sided shape.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Congratulations! How about some pictures so we can admire and be jealous.

[Smoke4320]

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After several hours of Shooters Choice, an overnite soaking, more Shooters Choice then Sweets 7.62 copper remover, more Shooters Choice I have what appears to be an excellent bore

I'm a happy SVT-40 owner

PS after more research I found out its wearing an AVT stock that arsenal marked with correct serial number for the rifle ( AVT, that's the full auto version) and seems to be a somewhat common thing at the end of its Russian service..
it is a semi auto weapon believe me I checked

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Even if it were "legal," I'd be glad I had a semi auto in that caliber and not an auto. That caliber would be tough to handle in full auto, even in as big a rifle as that.

It's a really fine looking weapon, especially that nice blue/black bluing. I'd bet that shiney shellac wasn't the original finish, but it was stored with the shelllac in long term storage. If you don't like the shiney, a rag and some denatured alcohol will strip it off easily and handily, then add an oil finish of your choice.

1942 - that rifle has seen some action. Would love to know what it's seen and where it's been. I'd bet if you could find out what the arsenal marks mean, there'd be one there for a barrel replacement as nice as that barrel sounds.

[Powder Burn]

Very nice. These things are a blast to shoot. They have a nasty bark too. Bought one a few years ago and it came with an SVT 38 Mag. I shoot light ball ammo so my teeth don't rattle too much.

[birch]

Those things are super fun to shoot. The only down side to mine was the 1/2 hour cleaning process after an outing. There is alot of places on those things to get gased up and if you are like me, corrosive ammo makes me stay awake at night wondering if I cleaned my gun good enough after a trip to the range.

I

[Gtek]

Have several I picked up in the early 90's and I have enjoyed them very much. No more of my brass boxer in them, loss rate to painful. The steel case fodder was cheap back then and stocked up years ago. Shoots well but I cannot get away with a half an hour, full tear down and boiling water about double that on a good run. I still cannot get over what magazines are going for these days, I am old enough I have bought whole guns for less. Gtek

[Smoke4320]

Gtek
I have not shot this one yet and wonder what were the causes of the brass loss ?
sounds like I might just want to shoot wolf steel case thru it (new wolf is non corrosive )

thanks

[Smoke4320]

Gtek
I have not shot this one yet and wonder what were the causes of the brass loss ?
sounds like I might just want to shoot wolf steel case thru it (new wolf is non corrosive )

thanks

DaveInFloweryBranchGA
any cartridge that big is going to be nearly uncontrollable in full auto in that light of a gun...
I would love to know its history as well .. but I have no idea how or where to start
sure would love to learn though

[rattletrap1970]

Shot a friends SVT-40 in a slow fire High Power 200 yard match. It actually did quite well. I always wanted one.

[Gtek]

First thing I would do is tear down and confirm gas system clean and make tight. When you tear down gas system study and understand orifice control. I wipe my gas guns pistons etc. with a (very light) rub coat of ATF and seems to clean up better post with carbon issues and anti-seize on threads. It has been a while since I warmed up, but if I remember correctly. I would center gas valve and take it from there. I have had them fold the necks closed, flip cases 180 in action and have bolt face crush neck. Change ammo and you start all over unless you run open and hot. I would fire and react to brass ejection. No good reason to beat up action if not needed, back down till she bucks and come up as needed. As stated in many reports they are not the toughest platform, and with mags at eighty bucks, the little parts are a treasure hunt and not cheap. Gtek

[Smoke4320]

Gteck
Thanks for the ideas..
I did a complete tear down and everything looks great.. Piston had very little carbon buildup and I took care of that.. all in all a good looking gun internally
I am interested in what causes the brass loss I have heard about.. is it a hard extractor ripping the rim or big dings on the body or what

Thanks

[Gtek]

The gas adjustment controls the cyclic rate/function of weapon. I have had- Not enough gas will failure to fully eject and crunch up neck on chamber face. May just be enough to chuck one out but not go far enough to pick up next round from mag. Too hot slams parts and may set up frequencies that do all kinds of crazy stuff. Start half throttle and react to weapon function. The steel Wolf is ok and if it wads/crunches them who cares, get good at stripping it down and the cheaper corrosive shoots well also. Like I said though, every different load may want something a little different on adjustment for soft function. They are all pretty close and I am talking about maybe a fifteen degree change in valve. I am very sure I am a little pickier than most on my weapons function. If it rips one rim, STOP! clear weapon and put back in vehicle. Something bigger is not right, neck, dirty chamber, headspace, etc.. The coated cases will gum things up after awhile sometimes, always clean chamber with good solvent before you put it to bed. Just go shoot it man, you'll dig it! Gtek

[Smoke4320]

Now i just need 100 rds of brass. or steel cases to reload r

[NuJudge]

In the 1970s, I used to reload steel Berdan cases, because I was unwilling to tear down my Tokarev to remove the salt residue from corrosive ammo, and I was unwilling to pay for Norma Boxer brass. All the steel Berdan primed brass I ever saw used .254" primers, which were available then, made by RWS. RWS is apparently still making them, but nobody has imported them since about 1980. Most of those cases were 1930's Russian production, and they sometimes failed during their first firing. Finnish 1930's production was excellent.

There are some Berdan primers being imported today, made by Murom in Russia, imported by TulAmmo. One (the KV24N) is intended for 7.62x39 class cartridges, and use of it in 7.62x54R class cartridges has resulted in lots of duds and hang fires for me. The other (the KV762N) is intended for 7.62x54R class cartridges, but it is the wrong size for steel cases, all of which I have seen take .254" primers. Some brass cased 7.62x54R came with .217" primers: all Albanian and very early Bulgarian. Other than the occasional rim that is too thick to chamber, the Albanian brass is very good. The early Bulgarian is bad, with about 1 in every 40 primer pockets failing on firing, burning a .217" ring on your bolt face.

You can still occasionally find Albanian at gun shows.