O1 for die body stock?

[squished]

Hi all,

I'm embarking on the a swage die projedt for .224s. What do you think of using O1 for the bodies?

[nhrifle]

I make quite a bit from O1 since it machines so well and heat treats equally well. It's tough enough for the project, so why not?

[Cane_man]

i use O1 and it works very well for die bodies, easy to turn on my small bench top lathe... heat treats easily at home, torch to orange, oil quench, temper at 350F for 1 hour and you are good to go

Ted Smith recommends O6, which is basically O1 with graphite added to make it more machinable.

[squished]

Thanks, guys!

That's good to know since I bought 15' of the stuff in various diameters. I do like it and it machines well as near as I can tell since I'm very new to the hobby of machining, which I really enjoy.

[bullet maker 57]

Is o1 good for making punches?

[customcutter]

You can use 0-1. Some folks just use a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt and turn it down. The only exception would be the punch for the point forming die. I think a lot of people are using music wire for that one, due to compression strength. It's pretty long and skinny, so more likely to bend or break.

[customcutter]

Hi all,

I'm embarking on the a swage die projedt for .224s. What do you think of using O1 for the bodies?

0-1 should work great. Just heat treat properly and you will be good to go. I started with 4140 pre-hardened, and quickly learned (advise from others here) that 35RC will only last a few thousand rounds before wearing. I've switched to making inserts for the main die body and using W-1 because I can heat treat it to 55-60RC easier than trying to re-heat treat the 4140.

Keep us posted and ask questions lots of experience here. We like pics of your progress.

[squished]

Thanks. I've been told my supplier has piano wire too. Though I'd rather get a steel name that's less "generic," so I know its composition for HT purposes, if it does what I want it's fine.

I appreciate all of the suggestions. Keep them coming. Pictures to follow ...

You can use 0-1. Some folks just use a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt and turn it down. The only exception would be the punch for the point forming die. I think a lot of people are using music wire for that one, due to compression strength. It's pretty long and skinny, so more likely to bend or break.

[Prospector Howard]

I'm starting to think that RC35 isn't all that soft. I have a derim die that I made out of a piece of grade 8 bolt (grade 8 is supposed to be RC33-35) that I've derimmed over 20,000 cases in it and I haven't noticed any wear yet. The derim die probably takes more abuse than any of the other dies too. I try to keep things as clean as possibible (grit is the enemy). I've also made other dies out of 4140 that I didn't harden any more than the way it came and grade 8 bolts, and they're holding up good too.

0-1 should work great. Just heat treat properly and you will be good to go. I started with 4140 pre-hardened, and quickly learned (advise from others here) that 35RC will only last a few thousand rounds before wearing. I've switched to making inserts for the main die body and using W-1 because I can heat treat it to 55-60RC easier than trying to re-heat treat the 4140.

Keep us posted and ask questions lots of experience here. We like pics of your progress.

[Cane_man]

Thanks. I've been told my supplier has piano wire too. Though I'd rather get a steel name that's less "generic," so I know its composition for HT purposes, if it does what I want it's fine.

I appreciate all of the suggestions. Keep them coming. Pictures to follow ...

"music" and "piano" wire is ASTM A228 or 1080 for the point forming die eject punch, and "stress proof" 1144 for all other punches

[squished]

So you recommend against O-1 for punches?

[seaboltm]

I have used o-1 for punches. As mentioned, o-1 is easy to machine and easy to heat treat. no kiln needed. I usually heat with a torch to the Curie Point and then quench in oil, of course. Curie Point for ferrous steels is about the temperature when a magnet will no longer stick to the heated metal. For cheap, quick punches I have also used drill bits by tempering them at 450F or so. Use the same drill bits to make pins. For punches I sometime use the drill bit to make a hole into a piece of mild steel or aluminum. Then I temper the drill bit, then I epoxy the tempered drill bit into the hole I made in mild steel. Works particularly well for the ultra small 1/16" to 1/8" punches. And yes, I do also have the correct professional grade punches, but on some jobs I don't feel like breaking them.

[Cane_man]

the idea is to use a material for the punch that is not as hard as the die body material, that way it won't scratch the die... will a hardened O1 punch scratch a hardened O1 die body? in theory no, but if they are not the same hardness it is possible

[squished]

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!