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Thread: Brazil Model 1908 Mauser

  1. #1
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    Brazil Model 1908 Mauser

    I have an opportunity to purchase a 1908 Mauser chambered in 7 x 57. I really like that cartridge and the Masuer action but I've heard some bad stories about surplus 1908 Brazilian models, mostly the condition of the bore. I haven't seen the rifle yet and I'll make a final decision when I have the all the info. Any input from you folks would be helpful. I've had good and bad with old military rifles but I'm curious as to what others have learned.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Petrol & Powder; 12-08-2013 at 12:52 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    The only thing I know is to look for stress on the receiver. If its good just don't shoot hot loads out of it

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy

    101VooDoo's Avatar
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    I had heard similar stories, and when I found one on the rack at Cabelas I was sceptical. Figured dark bore and rust under the wood was the norm. This was about two months ago.

    Bore looked a little dark and they dropped the price 10%. Got home and thoroughly cleaned the bore, it turned out to be mirror brite. All matching except the safety and shroud. Turns out the rifle had been barely shot, just had some dusty cosmo in the bore. Stock and metal is pristine after cleaning.

    Apparently there were a lot of very nice M1908s brought in years ago, this one has a Navy Arms import mark. The recent shipments have been the bottom of the barrel, but hopefully the one you're looking at is a nice one.
    Jim

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    The best thing to do with any South American rifle is to remove the stock to see the condition underneath. If it is heavily pitted underneath but has a bright bore chances are good the barrel was re-lined. Some SA rifles were spray painted black rather than re-blued when the bore was re-lined.

    I've never seen a Brazilain re-lined rifle but have seen examples from other SA countries. I only have one example left. A Peruvian 7.65. Major exterior pitting mostly underneath the wood, covered with spray paint but with what appears to be a new, bright and shiny bore. Years ago I saw an example of a 7MM FN-49 with a re-lined bore. Could be wrong but I believe it was from Venezuela. Despite the re-lined bore and heavy pitting under the wood. It shot fairly well and best I recall function was 100%.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Echoes from above. Check it out very close. Brazilian 1908 Mausers really are well made and make excellent sporters, if... and I emphazize, If, you make a very thorough inspection, to include disaaembly of the action from the wood. That's where most of your trouble is going to be.

    I've got 3 Argentines, two Brazilian, and one Peruvian, and all are very nice rifles.
    Last edited by Uncle Grinch; 12-08-2013 at 04:20 PM. Reason: spelling
    Shoot Safe,
    Mike

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  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I have one that was converted to .30-06. it is all matching and still military. I also have a Columbian and a Peruvian that were converted to .30-06.

    I believe a t of the bad bores came from after the rifles came in the country and were shot with surplus ammo and never cleaned.

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    10-4 on all the above. I've had Mausers, Springfield's, Enfield's' etc. and I'm familiar with the issues of old military gear. A close inspection is always necessary. I hadn't considered the effects of corrosive ammo being used after the rifles were imported but that makes perfect sense. They were likely better cared for when in the hands of their respective militaries than when they landed in the US.

  8. #8
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    My gunsmith friend in Colorado says that over the years , he has seen recoil lug set back on most all Mausers EXCEPT 1908 Braz. Mausers.

    He ranks them way up the line when compared to other Mauser actions.

    Ben
    Last edited by Ben; 12-09-2013 at 12:52 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben View Post
    My gunsmith friend in Colorado says that over the years , he has see lug set back on most all Mausers EXCEPT 1908 Braz. Mausers.

    He ranks them way up the line when compared to other Mauser actions.

    Ben
    that's good to hear

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The caution on loading is misplaced. High quality version of the great 98 Mauser, load away
    to full power with confidence as long as it is in good shape.

    I have one that is quite accurate with jbullets. Try enough 4831 to make 2400 fps with a
    175 Hornady RN. That load works very well in all my 7x57 milsurps and in my Ruger, too.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  11. #11
    In Remembrance



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    I have one rebarreled to 6.5X55 Swedish Mauser cartridge. The original bore was seriously corroded and non-matching bolt. The 6.5 Swede seems to be a perfect match for bolt-face and magazine length

  12. #12
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    Well, It now appears it's been sold, so it's all for naught. I'll keep my eyes open and maybe the opportunity will resurface. Thanks for all of the replies.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master FAsmus's Avatar
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    Gentlemen;

    I bought a 1908 Brazilian a couple years ago. I liked the crest and history of the arm.

    As I bought it sight un-seen for its basic good looks and the seller's remarks I was pretty disappointed when the rifle arrived and I found that it had been "cleaned" from the muzzle repeatedly during its service in Brazil. This ruined the barrel as it was clearly and badly funnel-shaped liken to a blunder-bus ~ no load I tried had a chance.

    I went ahead and re-barreled it with an Adams & Bennett blank in 7mm and glassed it into an old hack-saw laminated birch M98 stock from WW II. I put a Lyman 17A on the front and an old vintage tall-staff Lyman 48 (Patented in 1911) on the back.This unlikely combination worked very well right from the start. The old antique Lyman looks like its been there since the 20s.

    As for the action I carefully lapped-in the recoil lugs and replaced the original trigger with a junk-box M98 trigger off a gun show table. The original was wrong somehow, giving erratic let offs. The "junk" trigger worked perfectly from the very first pull.

    By now I have a couple thousand rounds through the rifle and it continues to delight me. Sure it looks like a clubly hack-saw sporter (except for the sights) but it certainly shoots very, very well.

    The M1908 is a fine version of the M98 action - just watch out for evidence of muzzle-cleaning!

    Forrest

  14. #14
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    .............I had an 01FFL from 1984 until 2001. Ask my wife, I was a member in good standing of the "Gun a Month" club In any event RSI in Geneseo, Il advertised M98/08 Brazilians @ $89/ea dealer price so I bought 2. This maybe in 92 or 93? Both were in good shape. One had a Beech or Birch stock so I turned that one into a 7x57 sporter for my daughter. The other was simply too nice to monkey with:





    What was really nice was that the hand guard must have come out of the same hunk of wood as the striping was almost a perfect match. Both rifles shot very well. Our club had a monthly silhouette match. I don't know which discipline it was but the rams were at 200 meters. They had what they called the "Cowboy Shoot" and this was before SASS or any of that and was for us unregistered guys to shoot. Had to be cast lead. Me and 2-3 buddies would bring 3-4 rifles apiece and would shoot through as many as time would allow. At $5 per round it was great fun. I used to shoot this Brazilian, a 577-450 Martini, a 6.5 Swede and a M93 Marlin, or any number of "Oldies" Old M71 and 71/84 Mausers were also fun.



    These 2 groups were my only attempts for high speed with cast (had no need for such). Top was with the RCBS 7mm-168 and the bottom target was with the Lyman 287405 Loverin 150gr slug. Both with the indicated powders and velocities. They were fired at 50 yards. Top group had 4 rounds in .750" and the bottom was 5 into 1 -1/14". My favorite cast load in the 7mm Mauser with either of those slugs was 42.0 grs of WC872 or WC860 for 1750/1775 fps.

    ...............Buckshot
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  15. #15
    Boolit Mold submoa's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=FAsmus;2516367]Gentlemen;



    "As for the action I carefully lapped-in the recoil lugs "

    You guys need to learn the diff between a recoil lug and a locking lug. The recoil lug is on the bottom of the action and indexes it to the stock and prevents action set back during "RECOIL". The locking lugs, which everyone seems to be "lapping in" are on the bolt and lock the bolt to the receiver when the gun is in battery. The term "recoil lugs" has been referenced several times when "locking lugs" were the intent. I guess you could lap in the recoil lug but it would be a lot of work, jerking that action up in down in the stock.

    submoa

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I have one barreled in 458 Win Mag, some pitting below wood line but that doesn't bother me.
    Charter Member #148

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I have 2 of them from 1984 when they were imported into this country. Both have shiny bores and good rifling. Try the RCBS 145 grain sil. with 25 grains of H4895 and It shoots very good in mine. I have had no problems with them.
    jim

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=submoa;2979459]
    Quote Originally Posted by FAsmus View Post

    I guess you could lap in the recoil lug but it would be a lot of work, jerking that action up in down in the stock.

    submoa

    Yep - That's bordering right on the edge of self-abuse............


    .

  19. #19
    Boolit Master FAsmus's Avatar
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    Sub MOA;

    You are absolutely right!

    I know better myself and I ment to say locking lugs - and in fact they are what I lapped-in.

    These days the locking lugs show pretty much full bearing upon their mating surfaces. Shiny smooth and I keep them carefully lubricated.

    Thanks for keeping the thread alive. I'll be back soon to share some shooting news relating to the M1908. ~ For now, it is time for bed - tomorrow is another day.

    Forrest

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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