new member - Lee Loader supplies question

[RogerDat]

I am a casual target shooter, as is my wife. I pick up my brass when we, or the kids target shoot thinking someday I might want to reload it, can always scrap it, and no one else should have to clean up our mess. Moving a bunch of lead blocks in the garage that I mostly use as weights to hold stuff for gluing reminded me that I had also always wanted to try casting my own bullets. Decided it was time especially since I have moved those crates of lead at least twice in the last 15 years. If I'm going to cast I have to be able to load em so....

Started me doing research online on what was required and involved in FINALLY taking a shot at doing this. That led me looking at a Lee progressive, or classic O style pressess and dies and such. When I calculated the cost of equipment it started to look like a no-go. Then a video on using the Lee Classic Loader to load 303 British (another caliber of interest) showed me another approach. I am most grateful to that poster. The kit should bring the cost of reloading my spent brass down to half price. Figured if someone offered me those boxes of ammo at 1/2 price I would buy them. Kit plus supplies gets the cost down in that range for the first batch.

So now I am the proud owner of a neat little kit, which frankly had me hooked by the time I de-primed my first 50 spent cases. Now I need some advice on what supplies I should order so I can finish a few rounds and try them out. Was too impatient to wait for supplies before trying it out on the first step.

Bullets - are hard cast and lubed a good choice? Selection is of course pretty poor right now but for a noob there is a bewildering array even in what is left. I would normally by round nosed or semi-wad cutter. Mostly 156 gr. I tend to think it is important to practice with the same round that would be in the chamber if my wife ever had to use it for self defense. Keeping cost low is also important. These will be fired from a short barrel which might influence suggestions.

Case Lube - I should probably purchase some. Would snow seal wax, or candle wax be fine? Any reason to not just purchase the Lee case lube if I'm going with store bought? Do I have to clean the case post production to get the lube off?

Powder - Clearly there are some very experienced handloaders on the site with some well thought out and developed formulas. Just getting started I need to stick with what included Lee measure is designed to use. If anyone has one of these kits in 45 Long Colt I would be interested in finding out if there are any powders that are in both 45 LC and 38 special, or in the .357 kit. I can narrow down the powder depending on the projectile style and weight. If I can use the same powder with the next kit it would be a nice bonus.

Primers - I know many people have a personal "best" or "worst" but I'm really looking to avoid any that are common knowledge to be sub par. Or especially touchy to work with.

Sources - Midway, Cabelas are the two I know of, have no idea what is involved with getting that stuff shipped, or purchasing online. Looking for good places to order from so if there are suggestions for the supplies a link to a source would be appreciated.

Case Cleaning - I think I have seen reference to mineral spirits to just give the cases a quick wipe down. If there is some other common solvent that would be good for cleaning I would welcome hearing of it. Or confirmation that mineral spirits is OK to use.

If loading works out OK I'll then start in on turning blocks of lead into something useful, if it does not work out I can at least sell some of the lead to someone that will put it to use.

[dbosman]

I hope you like options and opinions. In the short term, read the stickies.
Slugging -your- guns will help you select the right cast bollit size.

Regarding sizing lube. Any container of case sizing lube will last a LONG time. Imperial Case Sizing Wax comes in a 2 oz tin and many are still using the same tin thousands of rounds later. I use lanolin. I put a dab on my hands and rub it in for a nice moisturizing and as I handle the cases enough comes off to lube it.
Personally, I like size and then tumble to clean the lube off.

Powder is an annoyance at present. Unique would serve all your needs reasonably well - if you can find any. Really well for some cartridges. You may have to let us know what is available to you, in your area.

Primers pretty much all go bang. What is available in your area will determine what you use, for now.
There is a $27.50 hazmat fee for powder and primers so unless you and some buddies can go in on a group purchase, you're going to be stuck with what you can get for a while.

Case Cleaning - isn't a necessity. Most of us like shiny cases though. Water and soap works great. Everything else is nice but not necesary. Some put cases in a mesh bag and run them through a dish washer or even in a regular laundry load. Dry, absolutely dry is the only requirement.

As to sources, several are backers for this site. Their banners are at the top. Please let them know you found them here.

Reloading is going to work our well for you, especially since you found this site.
There are no stupid questions. Yes, there are some that have been asked fourteen thousand times before, but that's why we'll suggest reading the stickies.

Before and as you prep your cases read as many reloading manuals as you can purchase, borrow, check out, or download. Take the source into account. All powder manufacturers have free manuals - either paper or online or both. Use suggested loads and only suggested loads until you are comfortable enough to consider them very rigid suggestions instead of exact recipes to be followed.

Have fun, but be SAFE.

[jmort]

Unique works for everything. I get flaring tools for my Lee Loaders.
http://leeprecision.com/custom-flari...ee-loader.html

[RogerDat]

I hope you like options and opinions. In the short term, read the stickies.
Slugging -your- guns will help you select the right cast bollit size.

Regarding sizing lube. Any container of case sizing lube will last a LONG time. Imperial Case Sizing Wax comes in a 2 oz tin and many are still using the same tin thousands of rounds later. I use lanolin. I put a dab on my hands and rub it in for a nice moisturizing and as I handle the cases enough comes off to lube it.
Personally, I like size and then tumble to clean the lube off.

Powder is an annoyance at present. Unique would serve all your needs reasonably well - if you can find any. Really well for some cartridges. You may have to let us know what is available to you, in your area.

Primers pretty much all go bang. What is available in your area will determine what you use, for now.
There is a $27.50 hazmat fee for powder and primers so unless you and some buddies can go in on a group purchase, you're going to be stuck with what you can get for a while.

Case Cleaning - isn't a necessity. Most of us like shiny cases though. Water and soap works great. Everything else is nice but not necesary. Some put cases in a mesh bag and run them through a dish washer or even in a regular laundry load. Dry, absolutely dry is the only requirement.

As to sources, several are backers for this site. Their banners are at the top. Please let them know you found them here. ...



.....Have fun, but be SAFE.

thanks for the reply - we are in the same neck of the woods, I'm over in the Fowlerville area. Only place I know locally that has supplies might be Cabelas, don't know what the Powder Keg in Howell or Guns Galore up in Fenton carries for reloading. If you know of anything local I would be interested. Does Cabelas have ship to store to avoid the Hazmat fee? Or carry much stock on hand at the one down US 23?

Unique is only listed on the Lee Loader card for XTP bullets. Vihtavuori is the most common one listed, N350,340,320, 3N37. IMR Trail Bos & PB gets listed once each, SR4756 a couple of times. With the provided .5 dipper yields 4.6 grains of Unique. Most combinations are supposed to yield a velocity of ~ 1000 fps. with a few in the 900's and a few in the 1100's fps.

I'm not going to cast the first batch of bullets I reload, going store bought for those. So will probably purchase in stock .357 but slugging before purchase of dies would be a good idea. Will probably be required for the two 303 Enfields. But the 303 is last on my list of reloading goals.

Thinking of this item http://www.midwayusa.com/product/204...ead-round-nose which is called "hard cast". Or this http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...litem=00051504

Forgot about MidSouth so banner link is good reminder.

Tumble clean is equipment I don't have so it's all by hand at this point. It's ok though, I like working with my hands. Hmmm Honey are my bullets done in the dishwasher? She does know how to shoot so while a good suggestion it would have to wait until she went to visit family for a couple of days.

[RogerDat]

Unique works for everything. I get flaring tools for my Lee Loaders.
http://leeprecision.com/custom-flari...ee-loader.html

Thanks for the direct link, mighty thoughtful. One of those was included in my Lee Loader kit.

[RogerDat]

So far online the only source that has a powder type listed in the Lee Loader kit card of starting loads has some IMR PB in stock. And CCI primers. Does the fact that this powder is listed by Lee as having a low velocity (with 110 XTP) mean it is a slow burning powder? or fast burning?

Found one source of IMR 4756 but since they are out of primers can't order both and only have to eat the hazmat shipping fee once. And if I don't purchase local there goes a big chunk of savings. There is a gun show in the area this week end, never really noticed if much powder or projectiles are for sale at those events. Have just never been in the market for these supplies so never paid much attention to it.

[Dave Bulla]

Two additional items you should keep an eye out for are: 1) a balance beam scale and 2) a 6" caliper either dial or digital.

You can get a digital for less than a dial these days and both work but I like the dial type. Mine is a Mitutoyo and new it runs around $150 but you can find them used on line for $50 or so. There are cheap versions from places like Harbor Freight but I prefer to spend a little extra and get one that I'll never have to replace.

Scales are mostly made by one or two manufacturers with various reloading company names on them. Ohaus is probably the big name in reloading scales and they make for Lyman, RCBS, Dillon etc.

If you spend some time on ebay and select some likely items to watch then see what they sell for you will get a better idea of what is a good deal or isn't. You can also search completed items. There are a lot of ways to save money buying used but there are also a lot of people who are buying all the cheap stuff then trying to flip it for a profit.

To get supplies that normally have hazmat fees such as primers and powder, go to your local Cabela's and go back to the catalog order department. Order what you think you need and if it's on backorder, so be it but order it to the store for pickup. You can try to get something in stock but if the powder you really want is on backorder, it's best to just get on the list. That way you don't pay the hazmat fees or the shipping, but you will pay sales tax. I think you might be able to do that from home via their website but I'm not certain.

[dbosman]

Rogerdat and any other Michiganders, the next gun and knife show in Mason - is tomorrow through Sunday.
http://www.migunshows.com/maspage.html

I've no idea what to expect. Particularly since I planned on going next week.
It was - past tense - scheduled for Thanksgiving weekend. I'm glad your post made me look it up today.

As to boolits, next time you're planning on being near East Lansing, drop me a line ahead of time. I'll give you some spare round chunks of lead. Warning - some of them have a waxy substance in a ring around the base. Some measure right around .312 which might work in your .303.
Presuming I find it, I can give you some lanolin. I haven't sized anything in a steel die in a quite a while so it might take some looking.

Dave Bulla is right. You'll want a scale. Particularly since you plan on rifle reloading.
I tend to forget about that tool as I use a RCBS Little Dandy to charge pistol cartridges.

[RogerDat]

Two additional items you should keep an eye out for are: 1) a balance beam scale and 2) a 6" caliper either dial or digital.....

If you spend some time on ebay and select some likely items to watch then see what they sell for you will get a better idea of what is a good deal or isn't.....

To get supplies that normally have hazmat fees such as primers and powder, go to your local Cabela's and go back to the catalog order department. Order what you think you need and if it's on backorder, so be it but order it to the store for pickup..... ....I think you might be able to do that from home via their website but I'm not certain.

Scale was on my list for something to get, would like to weigh completed rounds just to be assured all are within specs. Figured doing one at a time, and being careful I could get away without one for now. From what I have read here scale is almost required to check a cast boolit. Have caliper, but those tiny numbers are getting hard to read. Might have to break down and go digital.

I thought electric scales were the thing to get, why balance beam?

I don't "do" ebay but that sounds like a good tip to scope out prices.

Cabela's does not list reloading powder that I could find on the website, just muzzle loading. Good to know I can go there to order, it is a bit of a drive but my daughter and grandson are on the way so I can combine the trip.

[dbosman]

A decent digital scale for powder or bullets or boolits is not cheap. Cheap electronic scales are not capable of enough repeatable accuracy for our needs. A decent balance beam scale that has repeatable accuracy works, even if you need to factor in a +or- adjustment.

A lot of shooters have never weighed a bullet of any kind.

Not doing eBay is generally a good thing. It is a very good indication of the average price for used items. For a patient person it can be a great place to find a bargain. But it's a great way to over spend for someone elses junk.

If you're referring to the Cabela's in Dundee, plan for some time for awe, there. It's big. Bob's in Hastings, and Guns Galore in Fenton are also big. Bob's has spaces on the shelves for a lot of merchandise. Many of those spaces were empty when I was last there. In Lansing, Classic Arms had about thirty bottles of powder on the shelves. Primers are by the box not case.

[RogerDat]

Bosman you are a gentleman and a scholar. I do love to break that Enfield out.
1). because I feel like I'm holding and using a piece of history. 2). Thing sounds like the wrath of an especially angry god going off. Big booms are always fun.
Would be a real treat to fire ammo I made myself. I can certainly swap you some bar lead for your lead.

I'm in E. Lansing 5 days a week for work could PM you on the board (I think) and maybe hook up for lunch. I may take a couple of hours personal time to hit that show Friday. See what I can find, who knows might find the rest of what I need to assemble my first bullet.

I do try to avoid being one of those people that buy a bunch of gear or tools when they are just getting started and really have no clue. Get started small, gain some knowledge, then figure out what I really need. The information you members are providing is a key step in that "gain a little knowledge". I'm guessing my first casting will involve purchase of an ingot mold, and pot from walmart.

Good to know about the scale, probably saved me wasting money on cheap digital scale.

[Wayne Smith]

One thing you absolutely will need and may as well look for is a bullet puller. You WILL make mistakes. I am 60, have been reloading since I was 16, and just pulled 150 .40 S&W that I inadvertently loaded with RE13! When we are confident we make mistakes wholesale!

Anything RCBS that is mechanical they will replace if it is broken or non-functional. It's just like the Craftsman guarantee - I don't know how many broken Craftsman screwdrivers I've picked up and turned in for a new one.

[Larry Gibson]

RogerDat

Excellent way to start reloading, I started that way myself in the early ‘60s.

A couple tips;

Get;
One of the larger MTM storage boxes, one with an internal tray, as it will hold all your reloading stuff.

A plastic headed mallet. These are available at most hardware/lumber yards.

Some 0000 steel wool to clean the outside of the neck. A small tuft wrapped around the neck and twisted does a quick job. May also be used with discretion to clean the outside of the cases.

A clean bore brush one size larger than the caliber you are loading for on a small pistol rod to clean the inside of the necks. Push it straight in and slightly twist pulling it out. Usually one pass cleans the carbon and debris out pretty well.

A small screw driver to clean the primer pocket but the Lee primer pocket cleaner is inexpensive and works well.

The Lee chamfer tool to chamfering the inside of the case mouth and the outside if necessary. A small knife blade will do also for the inside.

The Lee hand priming tool is almost a must unless you want the be-jesus scared out of you when a primer pops tapping them in.

A Lee powder funnel, works much better than pouring through the sizer.

A tapered punch or needle nosed pliers can be used to flair the case mouth if you are loading cast bullets. Or you can order a small caliber specific tool from Lee to flair the case mouths.

A loading block to hold the cases that you’ve put powder into.

Nice, or next to have;

Lee’s powder dippers.
A good powder scale.
A powder trickler.
At least one good reloading manual, Lyman’s is recommended.
A dial caliper.

All the above will fit into the MTM box.

Most of the above will also be required or useful when you advance to a single or progressive press.

Larry Gibson

[w5pv]

I have time to do this but have been doing it since 1964 and still have all of my digits and eyes.Get you a routine and stick to it.I have loading blocks that I use and the same procedure.I will take and turn all the brass with the primer side up and prime the brass and keep them turned primer side up and start to charge with powder.I put my expanding/powder through die in and weigh the charge ,dump the powder and then take the brass and put it in the loading block.This is done until I have all the brass charged and then I take a flash light and check to make sure there is no double charges and all cases are charged.It takes a little longer to load this way but cuts way down on mistakes.I set my powder throw a couple of tenths of a grain low and the use the dribble to zero the charge.Good luck on your reloading.

[RogerDat]

Hit the gun show in Mason. Was able to pick up 1000 sm pistol primers, 500 cast and lubed 125 grn flat nose all at prices comparable to ordering online. Plus have a vendor bringing a pound of unique tomorrow for me to pick up. Coming in at about $100 for the lot. Color me a happy camper. Did dodge some really over priced stuff, primers for $42 at one table that were $32 at another.

Larry thank you for that comprehensive list to help guide me going forward. The people that engage in this hobby, craft or whatever you call it are a very welcoming and supportive group.
A vendor that I purchased case sizing lube, a pocket cleaner, and ingot mold from looked up what my kit .5 dipper would yield in grains of unique then consulted a couple of manuals to confirm that it was a safe load (falls right in the middle). So I could be sure that I would be OK purchasing the unique and using it with those bullets. Despite the fact that he did not sell powder. He also showed me how to use the case sizing lube.

I figured I might as well pick up the mold (a lee) so I could be ready to start converting my bars and scrap into something usable. Any reason I can't just melt this down in a stainless sauce pan? Did see a Lee scale for about $24 but think I had better wait just a bit on that purchase. Was interesting to see the items as opposed to pictures online.

I like the suggestion of doing the work one step at a time and double checking. Maybe I will pick up a block when I pick up the powder tomorrow.

I can't say if it is true or not but one vendor said powder prices had dropped a lot in Ohio over the last few weeks and were much less than here in Michigan. Since the guy was selling bags of clean brass and from Ohio.... might be worth considering doing some shopping or shows in Ohio for those living in south Michigan.

[RogerDat]

One thing you absolutely will need and may as well look for is a bullet puller. You WILL make mistakes. I am 60, have been reloading since I was 16, and just pulled 150 .40 S&W that I inadvertently loaded with RE13! When we are confident we make mistakes wholesale!

Anything RCBS that is mechanical they will replace if it is broken or non-functional. It's just like the Craftsman guarantee - I don't know how many broken Craftsman screwdrivers I've picked up and turned in for a new one.

Is this (or something like it) what you are suggesting to pull bullets? http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...ku=00038502031
One thing I'm not clear on is do you have to purchase collets to go with these in the calibre being reloaded?
I too have used that Craftsman guarantee a few times myself.

[tward]

The kinetic puller I have has a universal type collet, really just an aluminum circle cut into thirds and held together with an O ring. Keep asking questions and be safe. Larry Gibson was right about scaring you if a primer goes off. Remember safety gear, safety glasses for reloading. Gauntlets, aprons and such for casting. Welcome aboard!! Tim

[RogerDat]

....Larry Gibson was right about scaring you if a primer goes off. Remember safety gear, safety glasses for reloading. Gauntlets, aprons and such for casting. Welcome aboard!! Tim

In another thread I believe the term "muskrat slide in the shorts" was mentioned when a primer went off unexpectedly. Have a pair of welding gloves but glad you mentioned apron, will have to pick one up, gave mine away years ago since I seldom did any welding and then only minor repairs. Always did hate getting burned by hot sparks or shavings, molten lead I imagine would be worse.

Hoping that I can sell my vintage "Tiger" box of Weatherby .270 ammo to a vendor at the gun show. If I can get some money for it that would be better than sitting on my shelf looking "vintage" and might help offset expenses of my new hobby. Upset the better half less that way.

I also have a box of Remington .270 Keenbore jacketed soft tip but it's missing the end flap with the lot number so no way to tell if it's part of the batch that was recalled. Kind of funny looking at a box of ammo and seeing a price of $5.95 on it, almost seems like it's missing a digit.

If anyone from the forum is going to the show in Mason and wants the 20 rounds of Remington for reloading let me know. I'm guessing I can leave it at the front desk where they make you check in ammo and put your name on it. Otherwise I'll see if the vendor who sold me the bullets and is going out of his way to get me the powder wants it since he sells brass.

[Zymurgy50]

If you ever get to the Kalamazoo area check out On Target on West Main. I was in there a couple weeks ago and they had lots of powder in stock.
Also had a buddy pick up a pound of Unique at the Walmart on Shaver road.
If you are looking for a set of carbide dies for the 45LC PM me, I have a set I got in trade.

[Wizwheel]

On Target in Kzoo, Jays' in Clare, and Johnsons' in Adrain are great reloading sources.
Michigan Shooter