Star Sizer - FRUSTRATED as all Hellllllll.......

[jameslovesjammie]

There's another adjustment on the Star that is often overlooked
It's the bolt that the link acts upon to operate the pump at the
Bottom of the stroke. Back it out to get more lube pumped, tighten
It in for less.
BD

I've had my Star for about 4 years (bought a used San Diego Star) and NEVER have known this was adjustable! Thanks for sharing!

[6bg6ga]

Quote:
Well, some people are perfectly happy with their method having started casting in 1956 and have seen no reason since then to change anything & can't understand why you would want to do it any differently.

Rick


I see no point in mentioning other lubing methods when the thread starter isn't asking about tumble lubing or something along this line. The thread starter is specifically asking for help with the setup of temps and pressures with his star. You may be happy with you form of lubing and good for you and your luck since 1956. When you invest the money in a Star/Magma or Ballisti-Cast Mark VI or similar you are interested in that information only.

[6bg6ga]

There's another adjustment on the Star that is often overlooked
It's the bolt that the link acts upon to operate the pump at the
Bottom of the stroke. Back it out to get more lube pumped, tighten
It in for less.
BD

Ok, I did check this and it looks like there is an adjustment and your correct. The problem is if one adjusts this too much you will get pump spring bind. So, caution should be exercised here and the adjustment will be minor.

[cbrick]

Quote:
Well, some people are perfectly happy with their method having started casting in 1956 and have seen no reason since then to change anything & can't understand why you would want to do it any differently.

Rick


I see no point in mentioning other lubing methods when the thread starter isn't asking about tumble lubing or something along this line. The thread starter is specifically asking for help with the setup of temps and pressures with his star. You may be happy with you form of lubing and good for you and your luck since 1956. When you invest the money in a Star/Magma or Ballisti-Cast Mark VI or similar you are interested in that information only.

Uh . . . Hhmmm . . . Well, I think you missed it completely. Go back and read post #5 that I was referring to with my post that you quoted.

Post #36 where you incorrectly quoted me and misunderstood was nothing more than me agreeing with you in your post #33 which I correctly quoted. In post #33 I assume you also were referring to post #5.

I use two Star's and have ONLY posted info in this thread that is directly related to the OP. If you can't keep up perhaps it would be best to keep quiet.

Rick

[runfiverun]

6bg6ga
are you trying to pick a fight?
or do you have a specific issue that needs cleared up..
nowhere in this thread did Rick mention tumble lubing or pan lubing.

that little rod pushes the pressure from the air/spring to the area around the boolit sizer directly, it doesn't need a super long throw you can hold the handle down a tenth second longer.

[DHC]

Hey Guys - let me reiterate my appreciation for the comments and suggestions everyone has offered.

An update.

Yesterday I was at my wits end. I had to stop after spending hours trying to get everything in balance and having no success. As an example, one of the comments upthread says that when the lube is too liquid, turn down the heat - when the lube groove fails fill completely, turn up the pressure. Makes sense. So what to do when the lube groove does not fill AND there is significant spillover onto the nose of the bullet (too much heat)? Adjust both heat and pressure - right? But then the additional pressure increases the seepage onto the nose, and the tail-chasing commences.

Anyway, I took a break for the day and then installed the Magma heater that recently arrived. PLUS (and this is the bane of scientific analysis as I changed more than one variable at the same time) I changed the lube. Results at this very early stage are night and day from yesterday. The same bullet giving me fits yesterday is now dropping through the sizer fully-lubed on a single stroke - time after time after time. No seepage from overheated lube and only slight adjustments to the pressure to keep the grooves filled.

So far so good. We'll see how things go from here.

Thanks again.

[6bg6ga]

Uh . . . Hhmmm . . . Well, I think you missed it completely. Go back and read post #5 that I was referring to with my post that you quoted.

Post #36 where you incorrectly quoted me and misunderstood was nothing more than me agreeing with you in your post #33 which I correctly quoted. In post #33 I assume you also were referring to post #5.

I use two Star's and have ONLY posted info in this thread that is directly related to the OP. If you can't keep up perhaps it would be best to keep quiet.

Rick

Looks like I read it wrong. Sorry I got your panties in a ruffle.

[6bg6ga]

6bg6ga
are you trying to pick a fight?
or do you have a specific issue that needs cleared up..
nowhere in this thread did Rick mention tumble lubing or pan lubing.

that little rod pushes the pressure from the air/spring to the area around the boolit sizer directly, it doesn't need a super long throw you can hold the handle down a tenth second longer.

The rod can allow a slight adjustment if needed which will not hurt anything. Like I mentioned caution is needed so that spring bind doesn't result.

[VHoward]

Hey Guys - let me reiterate my appreciation for the comments and suggestions everyone has offered.

An update.

Yesterday I was at my wits end. I had to stop after spending hours trying to get everything in balance and having no success. As an example, one of the comments upthread says that when the lube is too liquid, turn down the heat - when the lube groove fails fill completely, turn up the pressure. Makes sense. So what to do when the lube groove does not fill AND there is significant spillover onto the nose of the bullet (too much heat)? Adjust both heat and pressure - right? But then the additional pressure increases the seepage onto the nose, and the tail-chasing commences.

Anyway, I took a break for the day and then installed the Magma heater that recently arrived. PLUS (and this is the bane of scientific analysis as I changed more than one variable at the same time) I changed the lube. Results at this very early stage are night and day from yesterday. The same bullet giving me fits yesterday is now dropping through the sizer fully-lubed on a single stroke - time after time after time. No seepage from overheated lube and only slight adjustments to the pressure to keep the grooves filled.

So far so good. We'll see how things go from here.

Thanks again.

Glad you got it working. The Magma heater has a tempurature adjustment on it. The Lyman universal heater does not. You are now regulating the heat more consistently making the other adjustments easier. Now go forth and size more bullets.

[HATCH]

You can still add a pid controller to the magma heater

[cbrick]

Results at this very early stage are night and day from yesterday. The same bullet giving me fits yesterday is now dropping through the sizer fully-lubed on a single stroke - time after time after time. No seepage from overheated lube and only slight adjustments to the pressure to keep the grooves filled.

So far so good. We'll see how things go from here. Thanks again.

I love a story with a happy ending.

Rick

[Crash_Corrigan]

I raise roses for fun. I am always tossing clipped canes into the trash. Once I got my Star up and running well and I had perfect results with the silly thing I take a measurement on the punch set up and write it down. Then taking a fine saw I cut a piece of rose cane to the correct length and write with a sharpie on the side of the cane the name of the boolit etc for future use.

Now when I change out my die to a different caliber my adjustments are made quickly with repeatability on the top punch every time and I get good results.

All my measured and marked rose cane length markers fit into a metal tobacco can for future use.

[bbqncigars]

That's a good way to do it CC. I use good calipers, and dedicated punches. Then again, I'm a lazy SOB.

[Capt. Methane]

I did a fair amount of tail chasing when trying to get the pressure and temp right. Course I'm pretty cheap and got a heat lamp for warming the machine up.

Temperature is far more critical than pressure in my experience-once you get the lube to the right temp relatively little pressure is required-remember, the pressure is just to provide a positive feed to the lube pump (think spring in a grease gun) and temperature will get the lube to a viscosity that will work...at least that's how I picture it.

And if your bullets are anything like the MP 452-200 #68 clone you're going to love them!

[A pause for the COZ]

I got the air kit added to mine. Best $41 I ever spent. Took away most of my hair pulling.
Get it up to temp and adjust the air until you get lube in the right spot. Leave it that way.

[DHC]

I got the air kit added to mine. Best $41 I ever spent. Took away most of my hair pulling.
Get it up to temp and adjust the air until you get lube in the right spot. Leave it that way.

What "kit" is that? Link maybe?

[A pause for the COZ]

What "kit" is that? Link maybe?

Sure, Purchased right from this site. Vendor Sponsor area.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...of-what-I-make

[Cadillo]

Too much heat, or too much pressure, or you need to lengthen the punch adjustment just a tad to get the lube groove a little lower prior to lube injection. I always start by lengthening the punch when I get lube on the bullet nose.

[6bg6ga]

Most like the air cylinder over the kits. Both will do the job however.

[enfieldphile]

I ordered a magma heater along with the new Star I have coming. I thought the Magma heater is adjustable. If the magma heater is adjustable, why is a pid unit an advantage? I'm not trying to be a smart-alec. I really want to know. Thanks.

You can still add a pid controller to the magma heater