Scope power vs shooting distance

[popper]

Wanting to shoot cast @ 200/300 with the AR 308 24" upper, do I need something better than 6x18 (Nikon buckmaster BDC)? Was looking at the Cabelas 9x32 the other day, made by Tasco I guess. No, I'm not in the nightforce/leopold price range. I do think I need the mil-dot reticle though.

[Smoke4320]

really depends on if you want blasting or pin point accuracy .. if blasting/plinking the mil dot is fine
if Pin Point accuracy/hunting a fine or duplex crosshair is the way to go..along with clear glass... Nikons Buckmaster line would do just fine to 300 yds ...

[Doc Highwall]

Iron sights do real good if you take the time to learn how.

[popper]

Only if you can see the front and rear at the same time. I can't. I think they are dropping the buckmaster line, I'll see I can find another someplace.

[Bullshop Junior]

A 6 power should be pleanty. I personaly love mildot scopes, or anything with some kind of referance lines...

[MT Gianni]

I learned to shoot @ 300 with a straight 4 power. It isn't the magnification but technique. When you get that where you want you will want to move on from the Tasco.

[Love Life]

Pinpoint accuracy is easily attained with a mil-dot scope. Why it wouldn't be is beyond me...

Just read the scope manual to find out what magnification (usually the top end) the measurements are accurate at. If it is a fixed power scope than no worries.

A 6 power is fine for 300, just bring a spotting scope. Learn the Mil-Dot system, apply it, and you'll wonder why you ever used anything else.

[SDGarrick]

Learning to use the mil dot system is a hobby in itself. I enjoy judging distance by ranging a known (14") steel plate at 400-700 yards. OP is that a 6 power you have right now or a 6-18 power?

[southpaw]

Will you be shooting at known ranges? If so I don't see the need for a mill dot. Get a good quality scope with target turrets and you can simple adjust your elevation for the known ranges and back again. Will all your shooting be done from the bench or will you be shooting free hand? If you plan on shooting free-hand consider something with some lower magnification (such as the 6-18 you mentioned).

Personally, I think that you get what you pay for. There is a reason that they are cheaper and it's not because they like you more.

You may want to consider the burris signature z rings with the plastic inserts. They make +-.005, .001, .015, .020, .025, .03. Sure does help when shooting low velocity at longer ranges.

Jerry Jr.

Jerry Jr.

[vintagesportsman]

I learned to shoot @ 300 with a straight 4 power. It isn't the magnification but technique. When you get that where you want you will want to move on from the Tasco.

I have shot hundreds of sub=moa groups @ 100 with a $70 center-point 6 dot scope. I pulled it off my 8mm. Slapped on several other brands: Burris, Leupold, Tasco, Weaver in various powers, etc., both fixed and adjustable. What I found out: The $70 Centerpoint worked as well as any others out to 200 yards.
Whatever you get, become proficient with it. As long as it can hold a true zero you are good to go.

[Thomas Creek]

I like the fixed 10X like the older Weaver T-10 model. Have one in use for several years. See what you can find used or borrow to try out to meet your needs.

[David todd]

Scope power? I have killed animals past 300 with s 6X scope with no issues and shoot with receiver sights out to 500 on a 26” gong .
I have some very high powered scopes I used to use for match shooting out to 1,000 but much prefer to shoot with irons
David

[Tom W.]

Only if you can see the front and rear at the same time. I can't. I think they are dropping the buckmaster line, I'll see I can find another someplace.

I don't think it's possible to focus on both the front and rear sights.
The first scope that you mentioned will be great. I don't think mil-dot scopes are necessary for hunting game, but there's so much hoopla going on in all of the ads and gun magazines and a lot of people are getting swallowed up into the vortex.....

Now if you plan on shooting 1k yards , it's a whole 'nother ball game. I had a 14x28 or some such on the .308 that I had for shooting that far. It wasn't good for much else, as it was a very heavy single shot bolt action Savage Model 12 BVSS. But it was scarily accurate, and anything 600 yards or closer was going to be hit.

[Winger Ed.]

For hunting and basic target shooting, a 4 or 6 power should do fine.
Everybody has gone crazy for super high magnification, but it has drawbacks when not on a bench.

Your field of view is cut way down, it often takes longer to acquire a moving target,
and it easy to find your self chasing the cross hairs instead of concentration on the shot.

I've drifted back to fixed power scopes.
My last real hunting rifle was a 7Mag Remington with a fixed 6x Simmons. I loved it.
They seem to be more compact, potentially less fragile, and the repeatability of changing magnification is never an issue.
At the target range, 6x is plenty unless your going for ranges out over the curvature of the Earth..

[Winger Ed.]

I don't think it's possible to focus on both the front and rear sights..

Even with those young, kid eyes, I couldn't do it.
At Parris Island, we trained with the M-14.
We were taught- Sight picture was achieved by concentrating on the front sight (clear image), and the rear sight was expected to be 'fuzzy'.

[jaysouth]

For receiver sights, muscle memory (practice) keeps the front sight centered in the rear sight. Focus on the front sight and shoot when it's on the target.