Lee PrecisionRotoMetals2Titan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters Supply
Graf & SonsADvertise hereStainLess Steel MediaInline Fabrication

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 32 of 32

Thread: Bird shot loads for revolvers

  1. #21
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Pa
    Posts
    1,319
    Quote Originally Posted by RugerFan View Post
    I was wondering how those worked. Let us know if you kill anything with those loads.
    I was putting the fiber card on the powder and pushing it down with a rammer I made. The check was put on top of the shot. The check did move around a bit on top of the shot. I think I'm going to add some more shot so the check is a little higher in the case so the crimp holds it better. I was thinking of also trying to dripp on some paraffin wax to help hold the check in place and to ad somewhat of a seal.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    1,840
    I put 2 cards, I cut from a cracker box over the powder I take a wooden dow that fit in the case and push the cards in place and then I put one over the shot.and crimp it light and use wax I dip the case in to seal the card for the over shot. I dip it 2 times first time I dip and then remove all the heavy wax off with a small flat screw drive and then dip again and just remove off the case and then done.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Wasilla, Alaska
    Posts
    194
    RugerFan,

    Good post and pictures. Thanks for the tip on sizing the gas checks. I started using the same method (without sizing the checks) 20+ years ago for snake loads. I lived in eastern WA at the time and the only handgun I had was a 41 mag. I remember I had a little difficulty seating the unsized checks. I'll give those a try with the sized checks. Thanks

    Mart
    Only left handed guns are interesting!

  4. #24
    Banned
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    4,899
    There isn't much danger in this kind of reloading. Long before pressures become dangerous, you would get unacceptable shot patterns, through excessive muzzle pressure or shot fusing together.

    The first gun I ever owned without air coming into it was the Webley 9mm. rimfire shotgun. It gave pretty good patterns with only a single-layer moulded cardboard cup wad, open end facing rearwards. I don't think calibers like this are nearly as sensitive to quality of wadding as larger shotguns.

    I'm doubtful about the use of gas-checks. The pattern is liable to pass around the one at the front, and the one at the rear won't be left behind as quickly as a lighter one. I'd be more inclined to use card or waxed felt. If a wad punch doesn't cut cleanly enough (which one sharpened to a thin edge should), spinning the punch in a lathe or a drill-press should do so. A lathe or a drill with a hole down the spindle would let you knock it out with a metal rod. Over the shot I would use a thinner, frangible card sealed with wax.

  5. #25
    Cast Hunter




    RugerFan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Mat-Su, Alaska
    Posts
    1,943
    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistics in Scotland View Post
    There isn't much danger in this kind of reloading. Long before pressures become dangerous, you would get unacceptable shot patterns, through excessive muzzle pressure or shot fusing together.

    The first gun I ever owned without air coming into it was the Webley 9mm. rimfire shotgun. It gave pretty good patterns with only a single-layer moulded cardboard cup wad, open end facing rearwards. I don't think calibers like this are nearly as sensitive to quality of wadding as larger shotguns.

    I'm doubtful about the use of gas-checks. The pattern is liable to pass around the one at the front, and the one at the rear won't be left behind as quickly as a lighter one. I'd be more inclined to use card or waxed felt. If a wad punch doesn't cut cleanly enough (which one sharpened to a thin edge should), spinning the punch in a lathe or a drill-press should do so. A lathe or a drill with a hole down the spindle would let you knock it out with a metal rod. Over the shot I would use a thinner, frangible card sealed with wax.
    Shooting paper to check patterns didn't reveal any issues. I even stacked up a bunch of empty pizza boxes and was surprised at the penetration achieved (at approx 10 yds). Interestingly enough, the gas checks even penetrated several layers. I thought the checks would have slowed down quicker. Many folks use other materials for the cups (cardboard, plastic, styrofoam, etc). I have used plastic disks as well. Easy to experiment and go with what works. These loads have been deadly on small game for me.
    Boone and Crockett Club member
    <<----------------<<<<<<
    Pope & Young Club member


    NRA write your reps link: http://www.nraila.org/get-involved-l...your-reps.aspx

  6. #26
    Boolit Master



    NavyVet1959's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    409 area code -- Texas, ya'll
    Posts
    3,776
    I've used .357 mag cases with a wad of paper towel (about 1" square) pressed tight over the powder and then shot (or spent primer cups) filling the rest of the case, and some wax on the top to hold everything inside of it. Good enough for rats and such.

    I recently tried the same thing with a single-shot .22LR rifle using the .22 power loads (nail gun blanks). The base wad, shot, and front wad were shoved in from the muzzle after the power load had already been chambered.

  7. #27
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Moorhead, MN
    Posts
    92
    Doesn't Speer still sell those blue plastic shot cylinders for handgun calibers? I loaded some in the past, but never came across a rattler in the field so didn't use them.

  8. #28
    Cast Hunter




    RugerFan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Mat-Su, Alaska
    Posts
    1,943
    Quote Originally Posted by Norske View Post
    Doesn't Speer still sell those blue plastic shot cylinders for handgun calibers? I loaded some in the past, but never came across a rattler in the field so didn't use them.
    Yes, but only in .357, .44 and .45 cal. Doesn't help if you have a .41 mag, .475 Linebaugh etc.

    Besides, gas checks and similar materials are much cheaper that the Speer capsules.
    Boone and Crockett Club member
    <<----------------<<<<<<
    Pope & Young Club member


    NRA write your reps link: http://www.nraila.org/get-involved-l...your-reps.aspx

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
    Dryball's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    426
    Great post. I can't remember where I read it (maybe even here) but someone was making shot cups (similar to Speer) out of milk jug plastic. They even had instructions and pics.
    Domari Nolo

  10. #30
    Boolit Master



    NavyVet1959's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    409 area code -- Texas, ya'll
    Posts
    3,776
    Here's the pattern I got with 55gr of shot muzzle loaded into a .22 rifle with the paper towel wad over the .22 power shot and over the top of the shot.



    I'm not sure what caused the large hole on the left side though. Maybe torn by something else? Maybe one of the paper towel wads?

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Cold Trigger Finger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Eastern Central Alaska
    Posts
    287
    My problem is squirrels. The #9 shot CCI45 ACP isn't getting enough penetration at 30 feet. If it hit a bone close to the skin it would break it well . But , body hits lacked penetration. I'm gonna try #6 shot.
    You are being watched.

  12. #32
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    9,872
    Quote Originally Posted by Dryball View Post
    Great post. I can't remember where I read it (maybe even here) but someone was making shot cups (similar to Speer) out of milk jug plastic. They even had instructions and pics.
    See the sticky at the top of this subforum.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check