Inline FabricationTitan ReloadingADvertise hereLee Precision
Graf & SonsStainLess Steel MediaRotoMetals2

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 81 to 100 of 119

Thread: FYI This is how I do a pound cast.

  1. #81
    Moderator Emeritus
    dromia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    UK. Sutherland & Co Durham
    Posts
    5,157
    In relation to damaging an action with this method, so long as the action is tight and fully in battery then I wouldn't worry, you are unlikely to generate the same pressure on the action as an actual round would generating up to 40,000 CUP.


    For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:

    Pukka Bundhooks

  2. #82
    Boolit Master

    goodsteel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    6,996
    Quote Originally Posted by dromia View Post
    In relation to damaging an action with this method, so long as the action is tight and fully in battery then I wouldn't worry, you are unlikely to generate the same pressure on the action as an actual round would generating up to 40,000 CUP.
    I agree completely, and it really doesn't take that much to bump up the lead. I usually hold the rifle by the barrel in my left hand, and tap it with the big hammer in my right. You're looking for solid taps from a massive hammer. You're not wailing on it at all.
    I need to just make a video.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  3. #83
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    986
    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    I need to just make a video.


    YES! PLEASE do!! Getting ready to do my first and it would be very helpful.
    Lead bullets Matter

    There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers

  4. #84
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,059
    Tim: Several years ago Ed Wosika(sp?) published an article in The Fouling Shot calling the process "Impact Throat Castings". In it he listed sizes of drill rod for various calibers from .22 to .45. His contention was that if the rod fit the bore closely, that the lands would not be damaged. I bought all those rods. I think it cost me about $25-30 from MSC. So far I've only used 3 or 4 of the rods.

    Having said this, I think I like your method better, although it differs little from his. Your pictures and explanations along with comments and clarification from others is a great help.
    John
    W.TN

  5. #85
    Boolit Master pretzelxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Fort Lewis, WA
    Posts
    562
    Thank you. Love the information on this thread.
    Using Tapatalk

  6. #86
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    2,242
    Heres one I made today. Still working on how to interpret all the data. It wasn't hard at all. I'm going to make another tomorrow with the brass trimmed further back.




  7. #87
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    2,242
    This measures .311 right in front of the step which is what I've been sizing to. Measuring over the rifled area gets me about .3104
    The neck is measuring .3450 on the pound cast. A fired pc of brass measures .3445 and a loaded round is measuring .340.
    What would be some good advice on tightening that up?

    Also, how do I use this pound cast to determine an appropriate nose shape?
    Last edited by DeanWinchester; 04-28-2014 at 12:59 PM.

  8. #88
    Boolit Master SgtDog0311's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma and Idaho - and not depending on the weather.
    Posts
    263
    Nice looking PC Dean Winchester... and good questions. I'll be watching for answers as those are areas I could use some help with too.
    Best Regards,
    John

  9. #89
    Boolit Master AggiePharmD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    224
    If a person doesn't yet have a mould for their rifle they can't necessarily make an oversized bullet. How else could someone go about creating a substitute "bullet?" Would it be feasible to drill a slightly bigger hole in a piece of hardwood, pour the lead, remove and then use in place of the bullet? I'd like to do this for my 30.06s prior to buying a mould. TIA.

  10. #90
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,059
    I tried drilling a hole in a piece of wood and pouring a slug. I used a piece of common 2X lumber. It didn't work very well. The hot lead "singed" the wall of the hole unevenly and left it rough. I found that I really had to pound the slug to smooth out the rough surface. Maybe a hard wood would work better.

    Luckily, I have molds that work.

    Referring toDeanWinchester's picture: How do you get a rounded tip on your casting? Mine are always flat or depressed to match the end of the rod.
    John
    W.TN

  11. #91
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    south of Boston Ma.
    Posts
    50
    Hi
    Great post. I have not tried this yet, but is on the to do list.
    A question. If concern about the extractor binding or being damaged because of the increased resistance
    to extract the case, would it help to turn/file the rim off the case so the extractor does not come into play?
    Since we are driving the case out with the rod.

    drmaynard

  12. #92
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    257
    Remember if you have done a CerroSafe cast instead of a pound cast, you must correct the old cold dimensions. The figure batted around is .0025 but that number is subtracted from the square of the cast diameter and then the desired result is the square root of the squared measurement minus the correction. It makes a significant difference in the result. Fooled myself the first time! The correction shown is for at least 96 hrs after the cast. See midwayUSA's website for more info. The factor's unit is inches per Sq. In. which is why the messy square and root come in. This makes an old pound cast readily useable for measurements while your CerroSafe needs math translation to be useable.


    Ed C

  13. #93
    Boolit Master SgtDog0311's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma and Idaho - and not depending on the weather.
    Posts
    263
    +1 edctexas... did a cerroSafe on my Marlin Ballard and it changed daily. drmaynard, I've got and extractor that impinges on that chamber and didn't have any problems though I was concerned going in.

    I prefer a pound cast and have done several on 1893s and 1894s and modern levers but was a little hesitant on a 140 year old rifle that is known for it's hairline stock cracks.
    Best Regards,
    John

  14. #94
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    15
    Very informative, thanks

  15. #95
    Boolit Buddy don45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    South Shore MA
    Posts
    56
    I'm getting ready to do a pound cast of my M70 458. The only mold I have is 462560 545gr which seems good for this job. I'm looking to buy an Accurate 400+/- once I have demensions.
    I have done pound-casts on my M95 30-40 but have some questions about the big bore.
    1) What do I use for a pound rod? I'm thinking same 1/4 in rod wrapped large in tape at several spots and cap it with a gas check on top of bullet. Not sure if I'll puncture the GC. Or should I find a larger rod? I haven't checked on what sizes are available.
    2) How full should I fill the case with lead? I have tap&die to make a Hornady case guage to measure max COAL or I could just try spec COAL. The bullet really long and has large dia nose so shouldn't require a lot of expansion. I think 1/4 in from top will have this bullet too far into the throat and bolt won't close, thus the thought on the Hornady modified case, just a little work to make case.
    Anyone done this on 458? Any suggestions?
    ​Don
    NRA
    Benefactor Member

  16. #96
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,059
    Refer to my post #84. I think that a 1/4" rod would be too small. For .45-70 I use a 7/16 rod. That fits the bore well and won't penetrate the slug.

    I just fill the case completely full and then cut off some of the neck so I get a good impression of the end of the chamber, the leade and the beginning of the lands. Not sure what you are trying to do with the second part of question #2.
    John
    W.TN

  17. #97
    Boolit Buddy don45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    South Shore MA
    Posts
    56
    John, I found 3/8 rods, aluminum and steel, at HD. No 7/16 but 3/8 seems a fair fit. About same size as meplate. Is aluminum ok or should I go for steel? It will be wrapped up to bore size with tape so should never touch bore.
    ​Don
    NRA
    Benefactor Member

  18. #98
    Boolit Master SgtDog0311's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma and Idaho - and not depending on the weather.
    Posts
    263
    3/8 here too... and I take care to find a cold roll rod vs a hot roll. Tag will often have an HR or a CR. Electrical tape at driving end, another where the rod is entering the bore and then about every 8" in between.

    For my slug, I find a case with an inside diameter just about bore size or under. I then fill that with soft lead, and then use a hammer style bullet puller to remove that slug. Sometimes cut that in half to make two slugs and roll it between two lapping plates to smooth the surface and till it just sets inside the case neck and will navigate the lands (bore measurement).

    My case is filled to within a 1/4" of casemouth. I've filled to 1/8th of case mouth but often loose the cast when its that shallow and told myself "next time I'm gonna let the chamber slug seat in the case a little deeper".

    Don't forget to grease your chamber, throat and slug. Don't ask me how I know that is easy to forget. Once forgotten you won't forget again!
    Best Regards,
    John

  19. #99
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,059
    The 3/8 should be fine in steel. Aluminum will deform too much under the hammer. Yes! Wrap the 3/8 with tape because it will probably deflect some. The 7/16 drill rod is ground and polished and is close enough to bore diameter to not cause a problem. In getting all the sizes of drill rod, I probably went overboard. But then that is not a new thing for me.

    SgtDog0311 gives some good advice too. I'm not familiar with hot rolled but it sounds like the surface might not be best to slide down your barrel.
    John
    W.TN

  20. #100
    Boolit Buddy don45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    South Shore MA
    Posts
    56
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	458-Pound-Cast-IMG_2336-sm.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	53.6 KB 
ID:	126132Click image for larger version. 

Name:	458-Pound-Cast-IMG_2337-sm.jpg 
Views:	25 
Size:	40.0 KB 
ID:	126133Click image for larger version. 

Name:	458-Pound-Cast-IMG_2340-sm.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	40.6 KB 
ID:	126134
    Working on pound-cast for 458 Win. I roughly measured max COAL for bolt-closing using marks on the pound-rod.
    I trimmed the case by about 1/8" and seated boolit using regular seating die, careful not to bulge things by pushing too hard on the lead fill. All looks good, and the bolt closes on the round.
    Now ready to read about actual pound...some questions.
    How big of a hammer? How much lube / grease? What kind?
    Once I have the cast I'll post pictures and have lots of questions. My goal to to purchase a 350r or so mold from NOE or Accurate, depending upon measures...right after I learn how to interpret these.
    My end-goal is a spring bear hunt in Newfoundland with my M70. I purchased this gun in the late 60's for a trip to Alaska which never happened. This will be my first hunt with this gun and it's just made for a cast-boolit!
    ​Don
    NRA
    Benefactor Member

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check