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Thread: FYI This is how I do a pound cast.

  1. #61
    Boolit Master freebullet's Avatar
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    Btroj wrote ' Big question is what to do about it."

    Head north to my place drop it off and forget about it. I'll feed it what it likes, I promise.
    Can't don't come in a can.

    Don't cry to me it's your problem!

  2. #62
    Boolit Master
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    Nope. This sucker is staying with me. I spent way too much making it shoot decently.

    Right now it gets nothing but 359640 HPs over WC820 to give 1600 plus fps.

    Gear, I will try and see of those bullets will chamber if left unsized. If they will then I can get them to drop around .361.

    I will say that this rifle hates the Lyman 358156 despite all the glowing comments from others with a similar rifle. By hate I mean 6 inch groups at 50 yards.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master freebullet's Avatar
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    Lol, that's good nuff fer a deer, its like 357 buckshot. I was thinking of ordering Swede's 180wfn fer the gp100, that long fat boolit may do better.
    Can't don't come in a can.

    Don't cry to me it's your problem!

  4. #64
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by dromia View Post
    Texasmac has also done an excellent article on impact casting and other methods which is linked here on Cast Boolits which is well worth a read.

    http://www.texas-mac.com/Discussion_...mpression.html
    Wow, thank you for posting that link. I just went back and remeasured my 303 Brit Cerro casting, and got different measurements than previously thought, when simply measuring my year old casting. (Didn't write down the 1 hour measuremnts, DOH!) I was just subtracting the .0025" from my measurement.
    I shoot so that I can handload.

  5. #65
    Boolit Master
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    Gentlemen,

    Thank you. I would like to add that I made a (pistol) chamber cast to a .40 of my friends and a .45 of mine infinitely more accurate by doing this. Gear helped me through it 2 years ago. One of the first experiences I had on this forum. Here is the result out of the .40 S&W that Gear said I did "perfect". Comin from him I impressed even myself. It pays to take the time to read as much as you can on here. I bet there is something about everything here. Thanks again guys!

    Attachment 100561

  6. #66
    Boolit Master
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    Can someone provide a link or picture of a cast showing the places i should be measuring and what it means. i have a 35 rem Marlin and i really think i need to do this pound cast. but without the knowledge of what i am looking for, i fear it is pointless.

  7. #67
    Boolit Master

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    More advanced pound casting for those of you with a lathe.

    What I wrote in the OP was intended for your average shooter who doesn't have access to the tools that some of us full out nut jobs do.
    If you have a lathe, or are a gunsmith, or need a pretty poundcast that is not as fragile as the ones shown in the OP, then this next tutorial is for you.
    I am a gunsmith, and this is how I do it when I am requested a poundcast from a client.

    First, take your large centerdrill and pop a good sized center in a piece of aluminum. The depth of the centerdrill need only be larger than the neck of your brass, and it will produce a 60 degree angle.
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    Next, measure the neck area of the cartridge you intend to be pound casting and select a drill bit from your index that is identical or slightly larger.
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    Measure the bore diameter of your rifle with pin gauges, or if you have a boolit that you know fits fairly well, measure that, and select a drill bit that is identical, or slightly smaller.
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    Go back to the lathe and drill with the bore diameter bit first. Make it about 1.5" deep or less.
    After that, follow it with the neck diameter drill and be sure to drill no deeper than the neck of the brass is long, measuring from the 60 degree junktion created by your centerdrill. You want to hit that number +0.000/-.030.
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    This is what you are producing:
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    Measure from the shoulder junction on the brass and guestimate how long you want your slug to be. This will determine where you cut it off the piece you are making in the lathe. In this case, I called it 1.125.
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    Put your pocket scale against the cuttoff tool and use it to judge where to part off the piece of aluminum. Remember to allow for the 60 degree chamfer you layed in there with your centerdrill. I didn't on this one, and caught myself before I finished parting it off and moved over another 1/8".
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  8. #68
    Boolit Master

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    Continued.......

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    Now, find a nice piece of brass you don't mind destroying and trim the neck back at least half way.
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    Find a way to hold the brass rigidly upright. I happen to have a Forster brass holder upper thingy, so I employ it for this purpose.
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    Set your special aluminum part over the brass like so.
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    Melt your pure lead
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    Pour the brass and your aluminum mold full, but try to stop at the top. It is necessary to preheat the brass and the aluminum piece just like we would any mold, and you need to hold the aluminum piece down with pliers, run the ladle with your other hand and try to find a way to run the camera with your teeth so you can show everybody the perfect way to do this (maybe you will have better luck than me).
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    Now, wiggle the aluminum part with your pliers, twisting it back and forth as you pull upwards. If you followed the darn instructions and didn't put a dollop of lead on top, then you will have an easy time. If you screwed up and filled too much, then run a hacksaw over the top of the aluminum and then use the pliers to pull off the mold.
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    Voila! a one piece chamber slug.
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    Now, you know the bore diameter of your barrel, so chuck up a piece of steel and cut a 1/2" long slug that is that diameter. You are after a slip fit slug here.
    Continued in the next post
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  9. #69
    Boolit Master

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    Now, tape up your drive rod (I prefer cellophane Scotch tape) and slip it down the bore till it stops on the slug, and drop the hammer on it.
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    Notice the tape band that is precisely located to protect the crown.
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    Now, open the bolt (you did remember to remove the extractor right? No? Good luck.) and drive the slug out with a few solid thumps from the hammer. It bears mentioning that this method uses a much better fitting pusher than a GC and the lead has nowhere to go but into every little crevace, and it has precious little movement to do to get there. Therefore it is imperative that you believe that slug is going to come out, and run the hammer accordingly, because the first couple of hits will feel no different than the last ones did on the closed bolt. Make it even, make it straight and make it happen.
    The results are rewarding, because you can ship this anywhere and it will still be in one piece. You don't lose the nose, you can take accurate measurements of ideal case length, neck diameter, groove diameter, etc etc etc. and it is solid and secure because it is a one piece slug.
    Enjoy!
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    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  10. #70
    Boolit Master

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    One thing I would like to caveat the above instructions with is that what you see there, is about as long a pound cast as you want to make. It may be tempting to desire a cast of the rifling that extends 3" up the barrel, but this is a recipe for disaster. Keep your slug about 1/2" longer than the neck or less, or you will have real problems getting it out, and if you felt it necessary to ignore my instructions to use a rod with a flat tip on it, there will be no solution but to drill the slug out of the barrel, and that is expensive.
    I posted a slug with a long nose up yonder to show the absolute longest slug I feel comfortable doing. It could have easily been 1/4" shorter and served the same purpose.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  11. #71
    Boolit Master
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    Well done Tim. It does pay to have a lathe and some know how. If that casting doesn't tell you all there is to know about the throat and leade then you are making stuff up to worry over.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  12. #72
    Boolit Master

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    Indeed! This particular rifle is one of my own. It's a 1909 Argentine that got a 30-06 chamber run into it. The groove is .3125 and the neck is .344. A .315 cast lead boolit seated in S&W 30-06 brass puts the neck at .343. I have myself a tight necked 30-06! It's a .32 XCB on accident! WooHoo!
    Bjornb sent me a bunch of superbly cast NOE 314299 GC, and Lamar says they will be the cat's in this rifle. Can't wait to bust a cap under these babies and see how she shoots.

    The other thing that makes this exciting, and full of suspense and intrigue is that the bore is lightly pitted stem to stern. It's evenly pitted, with no real bias for the throat, and it's got sharp definition on the rifling, so it may just run like a top, but I haven't shot enough cast through a janky military barrel to know for sure what to expect.
    I'll tell ya though, I almost hope it doesn't shoot. Because then I would be ever so temted to buy this:
    http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/centerf...re-1-22-twist/
    and screw it on that Mauser and ream it with a 30-06 like they did. Such a tasty proposition, mmmm-hmmmm, lip smackin.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  13. #73
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    Question:
    Is it wise for a first attempt at a pound cast (for this boolit caster) to be on a
    1894 30-40 Krag sporter ?

    I worry about that one and only locking lug on the bolt.

    I have slugged the barrel .3135 x .0301
    I figured when I get a large enough boolit, and play with the seating depth, I may get close enough. But there is the thing that, I won't know how much the throat is eroded.

    Thanks for any advice,
    Jon

  14. #74
    Boolit Master Pb2au's Avatar
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    ^^^^^What he said.
    I am in exactly the same boat. I want to proceed with caution on my venerable and honorable Krag.

  15. #75
    Boolit Master

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    I would proceed with caution, but follow the instructions given as closely as possible and you will be OK.
    The worst thing that can happen is that you get a slug stuck in the throat, at which point you can get it out as easily as you put it in.
    I believe there will be a very informative post forthcoming that will describe this process in detail.
    Last edited by goodsteel; 04-16-2014 at 11:08 AM.
    Tim Malcolm
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    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  16. #76
    Boolit Master Pb2au's Avatar
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    Roger Wilco.
    This might be a situation where I just pony up and buy a hunk of Cerro-safe and cast it conventionally.
    Thanks for the advice!

    Edit;
    Goodsteel, when I read your response, all that was up was "Proceed with caution," which I interpreted to read, "not feeling to warm and fuzzy on this plan, but PB2au, you are a grown boy, so carry on"
    Now that the post is complete, I understand fully what you are saying.
    Thanks!
    Last edited by Pb2au; 04-16-2014 at 01:29 PM.

  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    I would proceed with caution, but follow the instructions given as closely as possible and you will be OK.
    The worst thing that can happen is that you get a slug stuck in the throat, at which point you can get it out as easily as you put it in.
    I believe there will be a very informative post forthcoming that will describe this process in detail.
    Are you sure ?
    I think the worst thing is cracking/breaking the one locking lug off of the bolt.

    after I posted in this thread, I kind of already decided that this old Krag is probably never going to be my choice for a accuracy project ...that a throat casting/custom mold will offer. I've got others I rather use. It's mostly that this old thing has such a large size bore, and needing a "out-of-the-norm" mold, I just thought that a custom mold wasn't much more.

    So anyway, thanks for the advice, but I'm going to keep my ham fists away from pound casting the throat of this Krag.
    Jon

  18. #78
    Boolit Master Pb2au's Avatar
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    Goodsteel,
    "More advanced pound casting for those of you with a lathe"
    This addendum to your tutorial is the ticket. I recently did a pound cast of my latest Mauser and found that it was not long enough to capture the leade and the beginning of the rifling.
    Looks like I will be heading into the machine shop soon.
    Thanks for sharing.

  19. #79
    Boolit Mold
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    My bullet do not release quickly out of the mold. I have to hammer it out with a piece of wood. I do smoke my molds with a lighter. What can i don to get the bullets out of the mold quickly? Advice would be appreciated
    Using Tapatalk

  20. #80
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rufus28 View Post
    My bullet do not release quickly out of the mold. I have to hammer it out with a piece of wood. I do smoke my molds with a lighter. What can i don to get the bullets out of the mold quickly? Advice would be appreciated
    Wrong thread, but KROIL is your best friend. Clean moulds well, then use Kroil each time after casting, and it will rain boolits.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check