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Thread: FYI This is how I do a pound cast.

  1. #41
    Boolit Master

    goodsteel's Avatar
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    Well just be darn careful to use the right size hammer, and get the biggest rod you can fit in your bore, and for goodness sake, do whatever you have to to make sure the end of the rod can't push into the slug! Use a gas check or something that fits the bore exactly.
    Tim Malcolm
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  2. #42
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    Hey Tim, there's a fella in the smokeless PP forum having trouble getting a Cerrosafe mess out of his chamber, got any tips for him?

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

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  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    Maybe someday I will have a colorful rifle in need of an impact cast.............

  4. #44
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by btroj View Post
    Maybe someday I will have a colorful rifle in need of an impact cast.............
    It's gonna make an impact alright..........
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  5. #45
    Boolit Master SgtDog0311's Avatar
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    goodsteel, Green Lizzard and I have done this before but this time we tried to follow the few places where your instructions varied a bit from what we've done in the past. This one (1899DOB Marlin 1893 in 38-55)came out very well I thought. Thanks for taking the time. This is a good read with great tips!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Best Regards,
    John

  6. #46
    Boolit Master

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    Geez, look at the lead on that rifling....or lack thereof! fascinating picture John.
    Actually, the study of chamber slugs is the study of chamber reamers. I am hopeful that we will see quite a few more pictures of quality chamber slugs like the one you posted. I learn a lot every time i look at one.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
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    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  7. #47
    Boolit Master SgtDog0311's Avatar
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    Ok Tim, Now you have me curious. We did this as an afterthought while working on the thoat of a 32-20. Actually have a pretty lengthy thread started on Marlinowners that started out with my novice questions about throat reaming.

    So now, if I understand you correctly you are commenting on the leade or lack thereof? I actully thought it was a little abrupt but it was so much better than the 32-20 before we solved that problem that I haven't stumbled on it too hard yet. But the rifle is leading! And doing so with what you'd think was a properly sized and lubed bullet, with a pretty anemic load, as in 1250ish fps.

    So, I'd love to hear what conclusions you'd make having a good look at that chamber cast?? Are you thinking it could benefit from a throat reamer with a shallow taper?

    I was thinking about starting with some paper patch, maybe, if that doesn't help, even a 'very light' firelapping (not sold on that yet) and see if that more modest polishing approach might eliminate the leading - that is if I also go down to near-bore size on the bullet.
    Best Regards,
    John

  8. #48
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    Sticky!
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  9. #49
    Boolit Master

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    I make a lap cast by putting the cleaning rod up near the muzzle of the gun with a wad to seal it.

    I use that as my pound slug from the muzzle after I have taken it out.
    A cold barrel will shrink the cast for an easy fit.

    Seems to make an easier to pound slug without having to bump up lube grooves.

    Just another way

  10. #50
    Boolit Bub user55645's Avatar
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    What is the largest caliber you've tried this on?
    Do you find it gets quite difficult at a certain point?

  11. #51
    Boolit Master

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    So far, that would be my 45-70. It's really not that much more difficult for any of them. I say that, I've never done this for a .22. Seems like that would be interesting.....
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  12. #52
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    I've done three .45 Colts, a .45/70, and a Shilen 45/90. Piece of cake. The bigger bores are actually easier due to being able to use a bigger, stiffer rod (hardened all-thread wrapped in tape).

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  13. #53
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    I've done three .45 Colts, a .45/70, and a Shilen 45/90. Piece of cake. The bigger bores are actually easier due to being able to use a bigger, stiffer rod (hardened all-thread wrapped in tape).

    Gear
    That's just what I was thinking.
    Geez, I've got a 17 caliber falling block here. What a pain that would be! Straighten a cloths hanger and grab a brad hammer
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  14. #54
    Boolit Master robroy's Avatar
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    I did my Ruger 77/22hornet using approximately the method discribed here. A piece of 3/16 CRS rod and a 1 pound ball pean did just fine. I'd love to post a picture of it but it got knocked off the bench and into a black hole that likes to swallow things like that. Got one in the laundry that likes the occasional single sock.

  15. #55
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    I haven't done the pound cast yet but wondering how hard is it to get the gas check started in the barrel?
    Worried about messing up the crown starting the gas check?????

  16. #56
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    Don't use a gas check use a good wad of tissue paper, far easier.

    Texas Macs instructions and take on the various methods of getting impressions is very help full.

    http://www.texas-mac.com/Discussion_...mpression.html


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  17. #57
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    Thank You.

  18. #58
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    The gas check doesn't need to be started from the muzzle end. There are other good ways, I just prefer the gas check because it is a virtual guarantee that the tip of the rod won't jump against the lands and ding them when struck.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  19. #59
    Boolit Master
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    Ok, here is a rough cast of my Marlin in 357.



    Notice the sharp entrance to the lands. I think this is why is rifle hates any SWC bullet. They just don't enter square to the bore at all. The 359640 shoots better at 100 than any SWC will do at 50. Faster is better no matter what the bullet.

    It almost looks like the chamber is cut with a longer than needed case section then it ends sharply.

    Big question is what to do about it.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  20. #60
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    Eeeuuuwww. That looks like my NEF .45 Colt throat. Marlin is famous for reaming chambers with no step at the end of the case mouth and then, somewhere up there in front, having an abrupt slant right into the grooves. Best bet is use the largest boolit that will chamber and have a short bore-rider (or as long as the action can handle) and a concave transition to the bearing diameter that matches the throat angle. You won't be able to fill it all, but you can pilot the nose and make sure the back stays straight in line with the bore until the base clears the case mouth. By then, hopefully enough of the front is engraved straight to hold things together while the base band spans the chasm. This is one place where buffer will help. Buffer won't expand the case around the boolit before the boolit moves (like burning powder will), but rather pushes it like a piston in a syringe. This helps keep the base of the boolit from collapsing to one side before it gains the support of the bore. Buffer also helps keep the lube from getting blown out of the grooves prematurely.


    Sumphin' like this from Tom, but with less bore-rider and more front band (and of course in 35 caliber):




    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check