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Thread: 12ga Boolits?

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you are thinking round ball, 0.678" is good for most standard shotcups and should accommodate a choke if it meets one. 0.662" works well too but is a bit small for standard shotcups ~ I "patch" mine to fit and it is quite accurate from smoothbore. Not sure how those would work in a rifled gun.

    I have not found a ball/shotcup combination that worked for me using 0.690" balls. I find them too big for most shotcups. Some people have had good results with 0.690" RB in shotcups in rifled guns though. Do a search and you should find some info.

    0.735" moulds are available from Lyman and I have had good results using ACWW balls over a hard card wad column in both smoothbore and rifled gun. I tried cushion legs, fiber wads and other methods but with poor results. A plastic gas seal, hard card wad column then the ball works well for me. By the way, that 0.735" RB weighs 580 grs. so not a lightweight. I like round balls!

    If you are using a rifled gun there are a number of solid slug designs around as well and Accurate Molds has a good selection from 570 to 900 grs.

    Greg: Have you shot a critter with that hollow copper slug? I read about a hollow copper bullet of similar design many years ago. The idea was hyper velocity defensive loads for .357 mag. (IIRC) and cutting a "core" all the way through a "bad guy". Makes me shudder to think of the wound channel!

    Longbow

  2. #22
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    I pretty much only use 3" hulls unless I'm loading buckshot.

    I really don't remember what size balls I shot before. All I remember is they made a big cloud of dirt flying when they stuff

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Yeah, I have seen several posts with good results using the BPI brush wad. I should order some and give them a go. So far I am happy with my 0.662" and 0.678" RB loads in shotcups though so don't have a lot of enthusiasm for the 0.690" RB. Mind you, those brush wads should work with all the round balls... depending on cup size. If they do then they are a good addition to the slug reloading supplies.

    One good thing about the 0.690" RB is that it is about the largest/heaviest choke friendly solid ball you can shoot... and Lee makes inexpensive 0.690" RB moulds so two good things.

    Longbow

  4. #24
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    I don't have a choke to worry about with my gun. And the lee mold is the one I was looking at since it's pretty cheap

  5. #25
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's the gun i have. I just dropped it on a scale and it comes
    In at exactly...get ready....5 pounds exactly. Nice for packing. But it's got a little recoil...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just so y'all know what I'm dealing with, that's the buttplate.

    I'm not really scared of recoil. I've shot some big guns with heavy loads. It takes a bit to scare me. I'm just looking for a load that will shoot through a moose, a bear, and freight train, and still take a little digging to find in the dirtbank.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

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    That's a pretty light gun at 5 lbs.

    Not sure what my single shot weighs and probably not a lot more than yours. I will say that with 38 grs. of Blue Dot under a 0.735" round ball it got my attention! Even a Remington 870 with rifled barrel was downright brutal to shoot with that load. Padding for the shoulder and/or a good recoil pad are your friends there! I didn't have either that day. I won't do that again!

    A slower powder would produce more of a push and a heavier boolit with a lower velocity might not be too bad. Ed Hubel says his slow powder heavy loads don't recoil too badly because of the long acceleration due to slow burn. He gets some mighty impressive velocities! I haven't ventured into Ed Hubel load territory yet though.

    In a self defense situation you probably wouldn't feel the recoil anyway. Practicing to be ready for that situation might result in getting beat up a little though. I know I was a little punchy after shooting 35 of those 0.735" round ball loads in an afternoon.

    If the gun has a hollow stock you might be able to add weight for practice then remove it for packing. You don't want to develop a flinch.

    Not sure of what it would take to drive a slug through a moose or big bear. Big and heavy is usually good but a 1 to 1 1/4 oz. slug or ball at 1400-1500FPS should make an impression. Not sure how that would compare to say 1000 grs. at 1100/1200 FPS.

    Greg or turbo could probably advise on that one.

    Either way, if you are looking for penetration a solid ball or slug is the way to go. Since you have a rifled gun, no need for hollow base slugs.

    Longbow

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    Longbow, I have not shot any critters with the hollow Brass Slugs. They did shred and spit out plenty of 7/16" diameter plugs of Phonebooks.
    I would guess they would shred most any thin skinned Game. I seem to recall pushing them at 1500-1600FPS. No matter the Velocity, I wouldn't want to be one the receiving end, even in IIIA Body Armor. They did make some Steel slugs to deflate Semi-Trck rims of similar design.
    I seem to recall the German BAT bullet, that was similar, but had a nose cone to help Ballistic Coefficient.
    Greg
    AKA 12 Bore

  8. #28
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    I would prefer a solid bore diamiter slug. I don't remember how fast my dad shoot 600gn boolits from his 50AK but they sailed clean through a moose.

    Shooting the 3" magnum 1.25oz federal I only had one issue -the stock has a few rough spots and to tire my hands up pretty good. So I wear gloves when I shoot it now. Other then that. I fired about 15 rounds and still could use my arm the next day. And it shot pretty good

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That was my last three shots off hand at 50 yards. There isn't a place to go shooting with the bench for over 100 miles and I couldn't get my truck over the berm pile at the gravel got to use it as a rest.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    I think the 1043Gr slug at 1000-1100 FPS is your best Bet. You do need to add some Weight to you gun.
    Maybe 1-2# to help slow it down.
    Greg
    AKA 12 Bore

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg5278 View Post
    I think the 1043Gr slug at 1000-1100 FPS is your best Bet. You do need to add some Weight to you gun.
    Maybe 1-2# to help slow it down.
    Greg
    AKA 12 Bore
    Where would i look to get a mold for that slug?

  11. #31
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    Accurate. I gave the link in this thread or the other thread. You have to ask Tom to stretch out the 900 grain that I linked. here it is again:
    http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_deta...=73-900F-D.png

  12. #32
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    Has anyone tried this one? I like the design a little better. Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master

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    There we go... http://www.ammo-one.com/38SpPMCookieCutter.html

    A little off topic but since it got mentioned, here is the handgun version.

    Back to topic.

    That's not a bad looking slug Daniel. It is one large hunk of lead to be lobbing! I am sure that whatever it hits will give up quick.

    You will have to check with the heavy slug guys for loads though. Load data tends to be sparse for slugs over about 1 3/8 to 1 1/2 oz.

    Longbow

  14. #34
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    bullshop jr,

    I have a friend talking to Accurate right now about ordering their 900g 12g slug mould with a HB pin. I hope he gets the mold so I can help with the load work up.

    You gun pic is a little fuzzy on my out of date laptop but the stock looks like the ATI adjustable stock, similar to the AR/M4 stocks. If it is and can still be adjusted be care to make sure it is locked in place. There is a pic or two on the GBO Handirifle forum of what happens when you pull the trigger with that stock not fully locked in position. The one shooter had the worst Weaver Bite I had ever seen, looked like Mike Tyson in is prime had nailed him. A number of folks with the ATI stock on their Handis have modified the stock so that it can't collapse; I don't remember how this was done.


    BB

  15. #35
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    I put up a post about the stock and the modifications i did to it when i first got it. I took the lock pin out and dilled it out for a steel bolt.

    As for the pics being fuzzy, that might be on my end. I took the pics on my iphone.

    If he does get the mold i am interested on hearing how it works.

  16. #36
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    There we go... http://www.ammo-one.com/38SpPMCookieCutter.html

    A little off topic but since it got mentioned, here is the handgun version.

    Back to topic.

    That's not a bad looking slug Daniel. It is one large hunk of lead to be lobbing! I am sure that whatever it hits will give up quick.

    You will have to check with the heavy slug guys for loads though. Load data tends to be sparse for slugs over about 1 3/8 to 1 1/2 oz.

    Longbow
    It seems like something like thatbwould loose velocity too quickly for anything over about 20 yards.

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I admire guys who can shoot guns that kill at both ends.

  18. #38
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    I admire guys who can shoot guns that kill at both ends.
    I have actually found this to be more pleasant to shoot then say a 375 H&H or a 458 WM.

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy
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    The Maxi-Ball style slug from Accurate is a copy of my 880Gr design. It was tested at the Linbaugh Seminar, CP pasted the results.
    The design of the 880 is supposed to rivet the nose, and expand slightly. The 1043Gr one is not designed to expand, and should be cast from hard alloy or Heat treated.
    The 1043gr slug is a Long Truncated Cone slug with dual crimp grooves cut in my Mold Blocks. It was also tested, and extremely effective.
    The heavy one takes up more room in the Hull because of the longer nose, and will use less Filler cards. The 900gr FN design shown could be a problem in the Forcing cone of your Gun. I try and have the slug enter the Rifling, while still having the rear of the slug in the hull. In regular
    Shotguns with Forcing Cones, TC designs have been slightly better than SWC designs, but not by much. My personal Opinion is that the SWC designs scuff the Slug unevenly when going into the Forcing Cone. It seems to be most apparent when firing hollow Base SWC designs. The holes in the Target are often slightly oblong. Bullshop JR, check some of the other Posts from CP, and there is a pic of the 1043 slug.
    Greg
    AKA 12 Bore

  20. #40
    In Remembrance

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    maybe this commercial ammo is something you'd be interesred in:

    http://litfld.com/wp/?page_id=310
    or
    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/523727/lightfield-commander-ids-plus-ammunition-12-gauge-3-1-2-1-3-8-oz-sabot-slug-box-of-5

    only 600gr at 1890fps, so maybe too light; but its 72-cal.
    maybe the ammo manufacturers are taking note of our efforts here? this is up into the Hubel-level velocity!
    C-
    ____________
    "...the civil libertarians and rationalists who are ever on the alert to oppose tyranny "failed to take into account man's almost infinite appetite for distractions." In 1984, Orwell added, people are controlled by inflicting pain. In Brave New World, they are controlled by inflicting pleasure. In short, Orwell feared that what we fear will ruin us. Huxley feared that what we desire will ruin us. This book is about the possibility that Huxley, not Orwell, was right.” -N.Postman

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check