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Thread: New wrinckle to my easy pc.

  1. #101
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingrhino View Post
    The wet method works well but if I can get away from the nasty solvent fumes I'd like to.

    Back when I shot high power competition I used a vibratory tumbler with bb's and moly powder to coat my jacketed bullets. Has anyone tried this method with the powder paint?
    Have you tried lacquer thinner instead of acetone for the wet method? Not nearly the obnoxious fumes and, works as well, if not better.

    I doubt anyone has tried the bb method as most have had great results without. What did you tumble your boolits in, and how much powder did you use, that resulted in the unsatisfactory results? Compared to the photo's of other people's results are yours similar or worse?

  2. #102
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    Why is this not a sticky great info here.

    Andy

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by prickett View Post
    Attachment 89679Attachment 89680

    Boolits with dry powder applied (tumbled for 10 minutes), then after 25 minutes at 425F (according to the oven, but more realistically around 400F).

    This used HF Red powder. Not quite sure why it comes out of the tumbler a very dark red, then out of the oven almost brown, but the brown looks much cooler.

    Oh, and I've revised my process to only do a single coating. Found no need to do a second coat.
    They turned brown because of to much time in the oven. My HF Red comes out RED.

    Granted I used the ESPC method but that shouldn't effect color. My time in the oven was 20 min. @ 350 degrees.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingrhino View Post
    I've tried the dry tumble method with HF Red and don't care for the results. I didn't get good coverage, even after 2 coats and I had blemishes from the wire mesh and heavy spots from excess powder. If i shook the tray too much to remove the excess I got more blemishes. The first coat looked better but had too many voids. Adding the second coat just made things worse. I get much better results with the acetone method.

    I still think this method is VERY promising. The wet method works well but if I can get away from the nasty solvent fumes I'd like to. I ordered some powder from allpowderpaints.com and will try those with the dry tumble method. I think it's just getting a powder and process that go together well.

    Back when I shot high power competition I used a vibratory tumbler with bb's and moly powder to coat my jacketed bullets. Has anyone tried this method with the powder paint?
    Don't give up. I scoffed at this at first. I will admit they still don't look as good as with the ES gun but for bulk plinkers they work fine.





    They don't look near as good as the ES gun method but they still work.

  5. #105
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    I tried the ES method and while it works ok, I found it quite tedious and well, a PIA balancing bullets on top of nuts and all. Base down they don't all get covered well where needed, with some requiring a 2nd coat. Nose down of course only works with a large meplat.

    Just as a quickie test, last night I swirled a half dozen bullets in a small container with a splash of HF red and after just a minute or two, they were well coated. Dumped 'em on the same tray I used for ES, except I didn't use a new sheet of ns foil, put in the oven for 10min @ 400 and they came out very well. In spite of the fact that they stuck to the preexisting paint on the tray (I pulled 'em off while still very hot), the coverage was surprisingly good. Will definitely be working on better trays, screens etc, whatever works out the best. I'm a much happier camper.

    BTW. I got a Hamilton Beach convection oven from Walmart for $60. It's quite large and can take up to 4 trays. The thermostat is fairly accurate. Now if only I can figure out what the rotisserie might be useful for...

  6. #106
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajax View Post
    Why is this not a sticky great info here.

    Andy
    Your handle says "Moderator Emeritus" - make it so!

  7. #107
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gefiltephish View Post
    I tried the ES method and while it works ok, I found it quite tedious and well, a PIA balancing bullets on top of nuts and all. Base down they don't all get covered well where needed, with some requiring a 2nd coat. Nose down of course only works with a large meplat.

    Just as a quickie test, last night I swirled a half dozen bullets in a small container with a splash of HF red and after just a minute or two, they were well coated. Dumped 'em on the same tray I used for ES, except I didn't use a new sheet of ns foil, put in the oven for 10min @ 400 and they came out very well. In spite of the fact that they stuck to the preexisting paint on the tray (I pulled 'em off while still very hot), the coverage was surprisingly good. Will definitely be working on better trays, screens etc, whatever works out the best. I'm a much happier camper.

    BTW. I got a Hamilton Beach convection oven from Walmart for $60. It's quite large and can take up to 4 trays. The thermostat is fairly accurate. Now if only I can figure out what the rotisserie might be useful for...
    Not sure what kind of tray you are using. I just dump my tumbled boolits onto a piece of hardware mesh with the sides turned up by an inch or so. No foil needed/desired. As soon as your cook ends, pull out the tray and swish it around a bit to break free any stuck boolits. While still hot, they release VERY easily. The tray leaves very few minor blemishes.

  8. #108
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    Here it is! I lost track of the thread that got me to try dry tumble.

    With HF red I tumble 10 min in a peanut can wedged in a rotary tumbler
    with a rag to keep the can centered. That might be longer than needed.
    Leftover powder in the can is not a problem, leave it for next batch.
    Remove boolits with hemostats, needlenose or tweezers should work,
    grab boolits by nose.
    Tap tool on can to remove excess powder, boolit retains even coating.
    No clumping, normally low humiditty here, maybe that's it.
    Place base down on nonstick foil, 400F / 10min. Base gets coated too,
    they release easily from foil.
    PC adds .002 to boolit dia., size after coating, nice & smooth.

    Thanks, I'm sold on this method! Gonna hit HF for more powder...

  9. #109
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    Wow you must be doin a lot of boolits my one can will last me more than a few years I am guessing, or at least my lead supply.
    Try dumping through a mesh screen on newspaper and reusing the powder by dumping back in your can. Less tedious than picking out each individually.
    Last edited by 3006mv; 02-02-2014 at 04:03 PM.
    stay frosty

  10. #110
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    Might try that but picking them one at a time I know the driving bands will be smooth.
    Not out of powder yet just wanna make sure to have plenty on hand, & try different colors. I shoot once or thrice a month if I'm lucky.
    Might try shakin' 'em in the peanut can without the tumbler.

    Wanted to learn paper patch for the 303, not sure it's necessary now.
    Last edited by a.squibload; 01-27-2014 at 07:35 PM.

  11. #111
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    What kind of mesh do I use? Can I get it at the hardware store? Can I bake on the mesh?

  12. #112
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    Can I use multiple layers in a tiny convection oven?

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukewmtdew View Post
    Can I use multiple layers in a tiny convection oven?
    I use aluminum window screen material available at home depot or other hardware stores. I have baked 2 layers with no problems

  14. #114
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukewmtdew View Post
    What kind of mesh do I use? Can I get it at the hardware store? Can I bake on the mesh?
    I use 1/4" hardware mesh.

    http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...624969.1302712

    Can certainly bake on the mesh. I made about 6 "baskets" using this. After tumbling, I dump the coated boolits into the basket, shake any loose powder off, then bake (in the same basket). Immediately after baking, shake the basket to break any boolits free that would otherwise stick to the basket.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check