Inline FabricationRepackboxLoad DataMidSouth Shooters Supply
Reloading EverythingTitan ReloadingSnyders JerkyLee Precision
Wideners RotoMetals2
Results 1 to 17 of 17

Thread: I have a ton of dirty scrap lead and need to figure out the best way to clean/smelt.

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    78

    I have a ton of dirty scrap lead and need to figure out the best way to clean/smelt.

    I have literally close to a ton of dirty lead and I don't think the dutch oven is gonna cut it guys. Any ideas on what I could use to take care of a large amount of dirty lead? It's from an indoor range and has sand and other **** in it. I have a turkey frier as a heat source. I was wondering if i could use the stainless steel pot it came with? It's probably 3x-4x the size of my cast iron dutch oven but I'm not sure if it would hold up.

    Anyone have any ideas on how to get this done? Please halp.


    This is the absolute worst barrel. The others have been cleaned up a lot more:




    There is a lot of good lead in these and I got it all for .10 cents a pound so I can't complain too much about it being dirty.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    778
    Cut an old 10 lb (? - grill sized) propane can in half. Hear it will take upwards of 100lbs at a time. I have one - yet to cut it up. They are TOUGH!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



    snuffy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Oshkosh Wi.
    Posts
    1,747
    This turned into--------

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P4110015.JPG 
Views:	52 
Size:	60.1 KB 
ID:	84606

    This-------

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P4110007.JPG 
Views:	52 
Size:	49.3 KB 
ID:	84607

    Your turkey fryer and dutch oven will work well. The dirt, sand and jackets will all float on top of the molten lead to be skimmed off AFTER fluxing.

    Yours looks a lot like mine did;

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P4110016.JPG 
Views:	51 
Size:	96.1 KB 
ID:	84608

    [QUTE] I was wondering if i could use the stainless steel pot it came with? It's probably 3x-4x the size of my cast iron dutch oven but I'm not sure if it would hold up. [/QUOTE]

    I'd just about guarantee that pot would crush the turkey fryer frame if full of liquid lead. That frame was only made strong enough for that pot full of oil and a bird.
    He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
    You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
    You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."

    “At the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat”--Theodore Roosevelt

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,394
    The problem with a bigger pot is needing more ingot molds. I use a 10 quart dutch oven that will hold as much as 150lbs of liquid lead. That's 75 2lb ingots. That's 3-12 hole muffin tins and 7- 6hole muffin tins. That takes a while to pour at 2lbs a pour. snuffy's setup is pretty good and about what I use with the addition of a hot water heater outer sheetmetal for a heat shield. Saves a bunch of gas.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    13,658
    One of the guys here will sell you a pot made of a cut off gas cylinder. I think he charges something like $40? Great deal. Look in the Sponsor section.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Carolina Cast Bullets's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    323
    Your turkey fryer and dutch oven will work well. The dirt, sand and jackets will all float on top of the molten lead to be skimmed off AFTER fluxing.


    In actual use, it won't all float. Ask me how I know that? What will happen is the finer "crud" will find itself under the molten lead on the bottom of your bottom pour pot and clog your spout. If you use a stiff wire quite often, its just a minor inconvenience. If not, it becomes a big problem and can even totally stop your lead flow.

    Even fluxing it with large amounts of sawdust does not clear out all the fine dirt. It is for that reason that I now seldom used range lead.

    Jerry
    Carolina Cast Bullets
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional ! ! !

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,577
    The propane tank works good for more heat ( depending where you are at. A frame from concrete blocks and a couple heavy grates can be set up.1 block high in a shape to hold the pot in it and a rate then 1 block and another grate for the pot and up to act as a heat sheild around the pot. stoker coal on the lower grate with a shop vac for a blower. Will heat and melt the lead very quickly. Depending on how its cut a propane cylinder will hold almost 400 lbs, SO grates have to be very heavy. For the pot mount flat stock steel could be used. Alot of ingot molds and a big laddle 5-8 lbs is needed. I made ingot molds 12" long out of 2" angle iron cut ends 10 degreesa weld angle to them 5-7 in each block/mold. These will be about 4 lb ingots. 4 or 5 of these will prettu much keep you running.I set angle iron over 2 concrete blocks the ingot molds are completely ut in the air allowing faster cooiling.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master



    snuffy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Oshkosh Wi.
    Posts
    1,747
    [QUOTE]Your turkey fryer and dutch oven will work well. The dirt, sand and jackets will all float on top of the molten lead to be skimmed off AFTER fluxing.

    ----------------_______________-----------------________________

    In actual use, it won't all float. Ask me how I know that? What will happen is the finer "crud" will find itself under the molten lead on the bottom of your bottom pour pot and clog your spout. If you use a stiff wire quite often, its just a minor inconvenience. If not, it becomes a big problem and can even totally stop your lead flow.

    Even fluxing it with large amounts of sawdust does not clear out all the fine dirt. It is for that reason that I now seldom used range lead.

    Jerry[/QUOTE

    Yes, I should have said that it will all float out IF You make sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the pot to knock that fine sand loose so it CAN float out. Molten lead will trap lighter crud against the bottom and sides of any pot, not allowing it to float.

    Also, he's talking about a dutch oven over a turkey fryer, not a bottom pour electric pot. Getting the lead clean in a dutch oven will prevent anything from accumulating in an electric pot, or whatever casting vessel is used.
    He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
    You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
    You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."

    “At the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat”--Theodore Roosevelt

  9. #9
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Sth Oz - A Land Downunder
    Posts
    2,087
    My last effort (small scale compared to what you're talking about) melting range scrap left fine grit at the bottom of the pot. I could feel it when I stirred it up, but it would not float to the top. It insisted on staying at the bottom!!! When I poured off the final dregs of lead it was still sitting in the bottom of the pan.

  10. #10
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    78
    So as long as I ladle from the top I shouldn't have to worry too much about the fine powder on the bottom right? Of course I will try and get as much out of the pot as possible first.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
    btroj's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nebraska's oldest city
    Posts
    12,418
    Stir enough and scrape the bottom and there won't be as much on the bottom to worry about.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Sth Oz - A Land Downunder
    Posts
    2,087
    Yep, and if you let it stand, so the fine crud settles on the bottom then as long as you ladle from the top and don't stir the bottom you'll be fine. When you finally come to pouring out the last bit, if you pour carefully you'll end up with just a little pile of fine powder in the bottom. At least, I did.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    7,923
    Don't discount the setup you already have. This:



    Makes this in pretty short order:


  14. #14
    Boolit Master


    gbrown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    S.E. Texas
    Posts
    1,799
    I have a large freon recovery can I cut in 2. It has a base on it similar to a 20# propane bottle. I also was given a full old style propane bottle which I cut in 2 after emptying it. (Casting boolits) I was leery about cutting the propane bottle, but my Ryobi battery operated reciprocating saw did the job in about 15 minutes. Both sit very stable on my old burner, a flat one that sits squarely on the ground (no legs) and has a low pressure regulator on it. I got it 40 years ago, somewhere. Don't remember. Both pots hold close to 75# full, but I never fill them, about half full works for me. I saved the top off the freon can to use as a lid (fits both) for heat retention if the ambient temp drops. I smelt and cast outdoors. Also, I ladle pour with a ladle I got from RayinNH and also a skimmer--good stuff for large pots. I have 5 corn cob molds and a couple of cast iron muffin pans as well as an old aluminum change drawer with 7 large slots. Only takes a couple of pours to empty the half full pot.
    One of my father's favorite statements: "If I say a chicken dips snuff, look under his wing for the snuffbox" How I was raised, who I am.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northwest Montana
    Posts
    487
    Your dutch oven will do the job, it just might not be as fast as a bigger pot. As said above.. you will probably need more molds and a bigger pot usually means more heat is needed. I have a 400 pounder for smelting and with some adjustment it's quite efficient. Initial heat up time is only about 30 minutes, any more than that and you are underpowered.

    Shad
    I believe in gold, silver, & lead, and the rights of free honest men... You can keep the "CHANGE"!

    Shad

  16. #16
    Boolit Master



    Springfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    San Jose, California
    Posts
    3,685
    I have a bunch of cast iron cornbread moulds if you need more ingot capacity. I use a stainless steel pot on my turkey fryer, holds almost 200 lbs. I have melted down most everything there is including range scrap and never experienced the crud staying on the bottom. More fluxing and stirring should take care of it.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy

    inspector_17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    middle of nowhere pennsylvania
    Posts
    125
    Easiest: Send the lead to me. I will take care of it all. Not saying you will get it back tho! LOL

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check