Savage 110 trigger adjustment (NOT Accutrigger)

[rtracy2001]

My daughter's Savage 110 in 243 has a wicked trigger. After hunting season this year, she complained that the trigger was too heavy, so I measured it - 9.5 lbs! Searching the net, I found these instructions:

http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/s...10trigger.html

Unfortunately I must be doing something wrong, I can only get the trigger down to a slightly more reasonable 6.5 lbs, but even there I have problems. The 110 has a three position safety: Position 1- SAFE- bolt locked, Position 2 - SAFE - bolt unlocked, and Position 3 - FIRE. Function is normal in position 1 and 3, but you can pull the trigger in Position 2 (>10 lbs, but it can still be done). Adjusting the safety screw (Key No 3 in the diagram) enough to solve the problem results in a safety that cannot be engaged or disengaged. In all cases, the safety moves from position 1 to 2 all by itself.

I also noticed that the seer adjustment seems to be completely backwards from the instructions. According to step 4 key #2 should be loosened until the seer releases, but the seer appears to sit on top of and slightly behind that screw, not in front of it, so TIGHTENING the screw reduces seer engagement with a step on the trigger.

Something isn't right here, so the rife is out of service until I can get it figured out (much to my daughter's consternation). What should I look for? Does this problem ring any bells?

Oh, I picked the rifle up used several years ago, so I don't have a complete history on it.

[kevmc]

It's been awhile since I've worked my 110's trigger....
I'll look at the link, and my 110...
I'll post if I have anything to add.

[kevmc]

OK, I'm at my bench, trigger pulled from my 112. Same trigger as pictured in your link.
Here's the safety removed (top):
You say safety moves from 1st to 2nd position itself..
Let's deal with the safety first...
The spring on the bottom of the safety attached by the screw at the front, is what holds the safety in position, forward and aft.
There's a "barbell" shaped pin that rides between the safety bar and the spring.
The big bend toward the front of the spring is where the pin is in full safe position.
Farther back, (~1/8th") is a small v bend, this is where the pin rides in safe/bolt free position 2.

Remove the E-clip from the bottom pin thru trigger, slide out pin, remove trigger, remove trigger spring.
Turn bbl. upside down, looking into trigger housing you should see the bottom of the safety bar, spring and screw #1.
Screw #1 rides on bottom of action, too tight and safety won't move, too loose and and safety will have too much play.
Is the spring bent/missing?
Safety should be firm in full safe ***., ~1/8th" forward is ***. 2... half of red circle should be visible on top of safety.
If safety won't hold in ***. 2, then spring is bent incorrectly.
All good with safety now?

Look at trigger, screws 3 and 4 ride against the bottom of the safety bar.
Screw 3 is the one mentioned in step 5 of instructions, it prevents movement of the trigger when safety is on.
Too tight and safety won't move, too loose and trigger will fire regardless of safety ***..
Screw 4 is for over travel.
Too tight and trigger won't fire, too loose and trigger will continue to move backward after
releasing sear.

So,
Reinstall trigger spring and trigger, don't forget the E-clip.
Notice screw 2 has cuts for the spring to sit in, make sure spring sits in one.
Back off screws 3 and 4 so they don't contact the safety bar.
Set screw 5 to about mid-point of travel.
Now we'll set the trigger,
Insert bolt
Step 4 IS backward...
With bolt cocked, tighten screw 2 until sear releases, then back off 1/2 turn.

With bolt cocked and safety off, tighten screw 3 until safety cannot be moved ON, then back out till JUST (1/16th turn) able to move safety to on ***..

Screw 4, overtravel, too tight and sear won't release.....
So,
Slowly tighten screw 4 till action won't fire, back out until sear can release when trigger is pulled and then back out a little bit more (~1/4 turn).

Set screw 5 for pull weight.

Cock action and DO SAFETY CHECKS!!! TWICE!!! THREE TIMES OR MORE!!!!
MAKE IT SAFE!!!


Just redid mine while typing....right at 3#'s and safe.

[Rick Hodges]

I have two old style 110's (one long action and one short) Using directions similar to KevMC's above, both of them have been adjusted to just under 3.5 lbs. on my RCBS trigger gauge. More importantly they are crisp clean triggers.

[rtracy2001]

Kevmc,

Thanks much. The safety problem seems to have been the result of a bent spring. Squeezing it with needle nose pliers improved the feel and locking of the safety significantly. Getting the trigger release spring back into place was a bit of an adventure.

I was able to adjust the trigger to about 4.5lbs to 5 lbs, with a nice crisp release. No slam fires when closing the bolt rough and thumping the buttstock on the floor won't set it off either (safety on or off). Best of all the girl likes the feel of the trigger now.

I tried turning it down to about 3.5 lbs, but there are some rounded edges on the trigger, and it just became unreliable at anything less than where it is now.

[kevmc]

Glad to be of some help.

[DLCTEX]

I adjusted the triggers on 4 of our Savage rifles and was uncomfortable with how little sear engagement there was when lightened under 4 pounds. I helped this by bending the trigger return spring wire slightly to give it less tension. No problems in 12 years.

[robg]

ive got a116 in 308 found instructions on a savage forum with correct adjustment 3.5lbs now .i just google savage pre accu trigger adjustment.hope this helps.in an old guns and ammo annual bob milek explained the processes .no need to dismantel just adjust allen screws in correct order.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I finally got fed up with the "lawyer proof" trigger on my model 111 and bought a Timney trigger that I adjusted down easily to a nice 2.75 - 3 lb pull.Robert

[mattd]

I followed the advise of those over on savageshooters long ago. Remembering back it was as easy as turning a screw and getting a lighter spring that you could make out of wire. Somebody on that site sent me two springs at the time. Trigger is awesome.

Heres se the link I still have favorited.....http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ent-Procedures

[Wolfer]

I finally got fed up with the "lawyer proof" trigger on my model 111 and bought a Timney trigger that I adjusted down easily to a nice 2.75 - 3 lb pull.Robert

This is how I fixed mine except I used a sharpshooter trigger. I don't believe Timney made one at the time.