MidSouth Shooters SupplyStainLess Steel MediaGraf & SonsTitan Reloading
ADvertise hereInline FabricationLee PrecisionRotoMetals2

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 81 to 100 of 102

Thread: A beginner's guide to revolver accuracy

  1. #81
    Greetings Gentlemen!

    I love this site. Best in the known universe!

    What is the best method to accurise a super black hawk?
    I recentaly accuired a used one and must do some work to it.
    Guess I am just wired that way?

    Where is the part about checking cylender alighnment?

    Where is the part about lapping the tight spot in the barel?

    Thank you all for your many years of expierance, maximum engineuity and paitence to try to teach a old dog some new tricks!
    "The rifle is a weapon. Let there be no mistake about that. It is a tool of power, and thus dependent completely upon the moral stature of its user. It is equally useful in securing meat for the table, destroying group enemies on the battlefield, and resisting tyranny. In fact, it is the only means of resisting tyranny, since a citizenry armed with rifles simply cannot be tyrannized."

    óJeff Cooper, The Art of the Rifle

  2. #82
    Boolit Master detox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1,469
    Concentric brass and boolits is a good start. I check and segregate all my Remington brass for case wall runout with my Neco concentricity gauge. The thicker wall Starline brass should work well if it has a runout of less than .001". Use a good mould that will produce a more concentric boolit. I like the RCBS .357 Silouette mould. Use linotype alloy to fill the mould well. Use a lube that will sling off easily as it is fired. I like the soft SPG lube. Alliant 2400 is good powder.

    A tight fitting cylinder that lines up well is a must. No tight spots in barrel except near muzzle. A good scope and trigger.
    Last edited by detox; 08-21-2013 at 05:16 PM.

  3. #83
    Boolit Master S.B.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    489
    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Concentric brass and boolits is a good start. I check and segregate all my Remington brass for case wall runout with my Neco concentricity gauge. The thicker wall Starline brass should work well if it has a runout of less than .001". Use a good mould that will produce a more concentric boolit. I like the RCBS .357 Silouette mould. Use linotype alloy to fill the mould well. Use a lube that will sling off easily as it is fired. I like the soft SPG lube. Alliant 2400 is good powder.

    A tight fitting cylinder that lines up well is a must. No tight spots in barrel except near muzzle. A good scope and trigger.
    And just what persent better accuracy do you get doing your proceedure?
    Steve
    "The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
    Life member NRA, USPSA, ISRA
    Life member AF&AM 294

  4. #84
    Boolit Master detox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1,469
    Quote Originally Posted by S.B. View Post
    And just what persent better accuracy do you get doing your proceedure?
    Steve
    Good accuracy starts with snug fitting and concentric ammo. This will reduce boolit wobble down range I am sure. A boolit that starts out strait ends up strait on target. I have never compaired so i have no percentages.

  5. #85
    Boolit Master detox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1,469
    Good cylinder chamber fit helps lots. The less expensive Lyman .357 Cowboy boolit fits my cylinder well (less freebore in cylinder throat) and shoots good in my S&W 686.

    I copied and pasted this from LBT's website:

    REVOLVER BULLETS
    There are two factors that are mandatory in getting optimum revolver accuracy. They are named
    below, along with our solutions.
    1. The gun must have internal dimensions which maintain a tight grip on the bullet from the
    instant it starts moving till it exits the muzzle.
    2. The bullet must be of a design and diameter so the gun can keep that tight grip!
    OUR SOLUTIONS
    Notice that we offer an assortment of crimp to nose lengths, the object being to allow setting the
    bullets out to approximately 1/32 inch from the end of the cylinder. This gives maximum powder
    room, minimizes bullet jump to the rifling, and because it puts a heavy driving band out into the
    cylinder throats, it prevents the bullet from tipping during take off, - IF THEY ARE FITTED
    PRECISELY TO THE CYLINDER THROATS, WHICH IS POSSIBLE WITH LBT BECAUSE WE
    OFFER ANY DIAMETER YOU NEED!
    To determine the maximum nose length your revolver can handle, (if it isn't listed below) hold a
    CRIMPED empty case firmly in the cylinder, then, with the depth gauge on a caliper, measure
    inside the cylinder throat from the front down to the crimp. Our closest offering UNDER this
    measurement is the correct nose length for your gun.
    - Some of the more common measurements are:
    All 357's will take a .35 nose length while S&W's and Dan Wessons cannot take longer, but
    many other 357's have longer throats.
    S&W and /Ruger Blackhawk's can use up to a .45 nose length in 41 calibers and longer.
    Redhawks, Dan Wessons in those same calibers can handle .5 nose lengths.
    The 454 in Freedom Arms guns takes a .4 nose with 454 brass or .5 with 45 colt brass.
    The 50 S&W has unlimited room. 475 and 500 Linebaugh's take a .4 nose.
    If you gun isn't in this list, measure as described above. Single shot handguns for the magnum
    revolver cartridges do not require crimping or can be crimped, as desired, and most have long
    tapered throats which dictate the best diameter to be such that the cases fill the chamber to a
    close fit. This close fit holds the bullet base from expanding and going out of square, while
    holding it in alignment while entering the rifling.
    Internal dimensions of revolvers vary widely, and barrels tend to be very inferior inside, because
    the cylinder to frame attachment threads can crush the barrel smaller at this point, and roll
    engraving pressure deforms the inside of the barrel, as do sight and other attachment screws
    and bands. Also, cylinder throats can vary several thousandths of an inch smaller or larger than
    the barrels groove diameter. LBT is the only company to address these problems, by providing
    the necessary measuring slugs and by training our customers to be expert in understanding,
    measuring and repairing the problems, and in proper bullet fitting.

  6. #86
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    30
    Lot of good advise

  7. #87
    Boolit Master josper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    MA.
    Posts
    336
    Quote Originally Posted by crabo View Post
    You need to get some pin gauges and measure your throats. It sounds like they are too small.
    http://www.westportcorp.com/single-pins-class-z.html This link will show you a site to purchase your gage pins
    Once more into the fray. Into the last good fight I'll ever know. Live or die on this day. Live or die on this day.

  8. #88
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by josper View Post
    http://www.westportcorp.com/single-pins-class-z.html This link will show you a site to purchase your gage pins
    Just remember, the gage pins will only tell you the LAND DIAMETER, not the groover diameter. They are great for measuring CYLINDER diameters but not so good for BARREL diameters. Of course, they will measure RELATIVE diameter of barrels which can give you thresholds but nothing exact for firelapping.... except for cylinders.

  9. #89
    Boolit Master josper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    MA.
    Posts
    336
    For the use of gage pins read this. http://www.gunblast.com/FerminGarza-Firelapping.htm
    Once more into the fray. Into the last good fight I'll ever know. Live or die on this day. Live or die on this day.

  10. #90
    Ruger NM Single Six .32mag + 90gr swaged lead TC over 4gr Unique = One ragged hole off sandbag at 25 yards.

  11. #91
    Boolit Master tazman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    west central Illinois
    Posts
    4,384
    I used the wonderful information on this site to work up loads for my handguns. I will be doing the rifles later.
    I wanted to thank all of you for the time and trouble you have taken to post all these years of experience in one place so we less knowledgeable people can learn from it.
    I think I have put it to good use.
    Recent post: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...y-pistol-loves!

  12. #92
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    I made a longer transfer bar for my Ruger so I could get the trigger to 1-1/2#. I also recut the forcing cone. A Ruger out of the box won't do it. The BFR's will once the trigger is worked on. I have put 5 shots in 9/16" at 50 yd's with mine. Cast boolits too.
    I only shoot heavy loads for hunting, heavy boolits and near max loads. Never look down your nose at a good revolver.
    I can't shoot fast, from the hip, quick draw or any of the fancy stuff. I shoot to hit deer, period.
    You guys are making me feel bad. I shot a 2 inch group at 25 yards with my Colt Army Special 38 the other day and was ecstatic ....until I came here.

  13. #93
    Boolit Man John Van Gelder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    NE Oregon
    Posts
    75
    Eliduc

    2" at 25 yards, is still pretty good. Revolvers are capable of some very impressive accuracy, but most require some work. The enrty made by detox is a good example. There are a lot of variables, every handgun is a bit different. Sometimes you get a gun right out of the box that will really shoot. I bought a 7 1/2 Ruger Redhawk .44 magnum back in 1981, the only thing I did to that guns was to put on a set of the express sights, I used it to hunt marmots in the mountains when I lived in Alaska, from a rest I could regularly take marmots out to 100 yards, with cast bullets.

    If you are trying for the best possible accuracy, I believe that a machine rest is a good investment.

  14. #94
    Boolit Man

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    124
    Every time I acquire a new wheelgun I re-read this sticky just to make sure I'm not forgetting anything. Always helpful as usual.

  15. #95
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    N.Miss.
    Posts
    41
    Ya know with all the info we have today and still have leading and accuracy woes I was just wondering,if the old guy's in the 1800 and early 1900"s had the same. Any 0ne know what alloy"s and what pressures they were running? Did they have to scrub lead too?

  16. #96
    Banned

    44man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    22,706
    Research my revolver shooting stuff. I have hundreds of groups at 100 yards under 1", many to 1/2" and groups at 500 yards of 2-1/2".

  17. #97
    Great info guys

  18. #98
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    31
    Lots of interesting stuff I can use. thanks

  19. #99
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    minnesota
    Posts
    27
    I have the 49th and 50th ,if anyone needs the 49th,I'll send it to you. pm me

  20. #100
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    minnesota
    Posts
    27
    At my cousin's last year we were shooting 4 or 5 pistols,iam no great shot,so I asked him,a marine,whats my problem. He weigh it for a minute,and said shake my hand with the grip you use on your revolver's,so I shook his hand and he said to light.Grip pressure can make a difference.

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check