wet tumble with SSpins, citric acid, dawn. rinse well when done, soak in carwash/wax and water solution (a little more wash.wax than you'd use on for a car mixed with water), rinse lightly, towel dry then dry in a food dehydrator
wet tumble with SSpins, citric acid, dawn. rinse well when done, soak in carwash/wax and water solution (a little more wash.wax than you'd use on for a car mixed with water), rinse lightly, towel dry then dry in a food dehydrator
Last edited by Conditor22; 10-21-2020 at 02:18 AM.
The method I wanted to mention is for finish loaded rounds. I anneal all my rifle brass after it's dry from wet tumbling, which could cook off any wax or polish plus I lube for sizing and then wipe off the lube. After all that, I don't think any protective film would be left on them while they wait to be fired nor did they ever look like it. So, I wait until they're reloaded, lock them into a modified shell holder & spin them in a cordless drill while I hit them with scotch-brite for a few seconds to shine them like they were turned on a lathe, then give them a very, very light dusting with a special made for brass lacquer and presto, tarnished rounds are in the rear view. This covers my copper hunting bullet too. I have a few that have been sitting on a shelf next to an un-treated round for 3 years now and no change, except for the un-treated one. I do this only for rounds going into my bolt actions, so if hot chambers were coming to mind, I can't speak to that because I haven't tested that. No need to go thru an extra step if your just going to blast away with a semi-auto right? Long term loaded hunting rounds not tarnished was what I was after here. And boy do they look good in your ammo pouch when your out hunting.
And to prove they won't tarnish in the years to come, you can give the "ammonia test" a try, here's all you need :
1) Ammonia
2) Air tight container
3) Block of wood or similar - (to keep the cases out of the ammonia)
4) Brass rifle cases treated with any product you think might work
Pour enough ammonia into the container to fill the bottom up to roughly 1/4" high.
Place block in container, place "treated" brass cases on block, close lid.
One hour later, you will see about 30 years worth of tarnish on any cases NOT lightly sprayed with the lacquer. Nothing, including Nu Finish car polish, Wash 'n Wax, Imperial sizing wax, or any of the Hornady One Shot products even came close to the protection the lacquer gives. If someone knows something that can pass this test, other than what I suggested, please share.
Here's a quick sample of a single 30-06 case taped off before spraying.
Then with the tape removed for exposure to the ammonia fumes
as it's suspended by a paper clip.
And The end result after an hour.
Last edited by Darth Jäger; 10-18-2020 at 01:48 PM.
Do your final rinse in soapy water, and let dry. Same for cast bullets if you want to keep them shiny.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
I clean my brass in an Ultrasonic cleaner, with a Lemishine and Simple Green. Then I tumble in SS pins and just a squirt of Armor-All. I rinse with cold tap water, 2 or 3 times. Then I let it drip dry for a couple minutes in a colander, and bounce them inside a rolled up towel to get more of the water off. Then they get dumped into a wide mesh container, and placed under a 4" x 4" box fan to dry. The brass comes out very shiny, and you can feel the wax of the Armor-All after it dries. The brass does darken slightly over time, more golden that the bright white when it 1st comes out.
This brass was loaded in December 2019 and stored in a Harbor Freight plastic ammo box.
They look great.
Last edited by Darth Jäger; 10-21-2020 at 10:56 AM.
What I've done for long term storage is leave a full ammo can out in the sun for a hour or two on one of our hot dry days,
then close it up, and it'll sort of draw down a vacuum.
For the shorter term, I use one of those home kitchen vacuum sealer things, and put those bags in ammo cans.
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In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
I de-prime my brass in a single stage press so as not to get gunk in my primary press. Brass gets a hot soapy (Dawn) wash. Rifle cases get tumbled in some vegetable oil, just a dribble, a little goes a long way. Every 5 pieces of brass I wipe my finger on the case mouth to lube the expander ball.
Anyway, rinsed soapy pistol brass goes straight to resizing. The friction from sizing dries out the sizing die, I've not had a problem with my dies rusting. Next soapy rinse includes lemon juice, 5 minute soak. Dawn cuts grease don't you know.
Brass gets strained but not dried. Lyman vibratory tumbler, ground walnut, treated with Turtle Zip Wash, maybe 2 tablespoons every now and then. Wet brass goes straight in the treated walnut, it will be shiny and dry within an hour. The turtle zip wash seals the pores of the brass due to the wax that is in the zip wash. I have .308 that I loaded 5 years ago, shiny and bright. I have a box of factory .308 my brother gave me when I got my M1A, it is tarnished.
My loaded ammo goes into sandwich baggies and the baggies go into plastic Folgers coffee cans, .223 goes on stripper clips in 40 round boxes I make from cereal or frozen pizza boxes. You can also use boxes that Irish Spring soap comes in. I think there is an ad at the top of the page for the folded boxes, I made my own.
If you want a good day at the range, load the stripper clips in a 2 3/4" shot shell box, it will hold 120 or 130 rounds. .308 is just in baggies or stacked in boxes, forgot which box works for that. I used to get .308 boxes from work when I was training with our version of SWAT. Our selective marksmen went through a fair amount of .308 W. The rest of us just shot our Glocks in 40 S&W, 9mm through the MP5s, and 5.56 through our M4 variants. We only shot the pump shotguns quarterly, no need to shoot them more often.
When I was a kid, Dad loaded with non carbide dies, the whole oily lube pad affair. The brass got wiped down and just got darker and darker. Dad said the brass was 'experienced.' 10 years later, he bought me the Lyman tumbler. After that, he wanted all of his brass shiny and not so 'experienced.'
Common sense Gun Safety . . .
Is taught at the Range!
I just finish with a short soak in strong citric acid and then rinse very well. I usually shoot all of mine within 3-6 months. After hearing about the car wash products, maybe I’ll try a rinse with it after the citric acid.
I tumble clean with SS pins in my RCBS rotary tumbler. It takes 1 litre of water with the 5# of pins plus fifty 45 Colt cases. My usual cleaning agent is 30 ml of Cascade dishwasher machine powder detergent 1.5 to 2 hrs tumbling time will clean inside and out.
A thorough rinse, then soak the cases in a large margarine tub ~1kg size with Simonize car wash and wax for a few minutes. A brief rinse again then spread the cases out on a cheap Walmart grade cotton towel. Another towel on top and roll the cases between the 2 towels to dry off the water droplets to avoid water spots stains.
I often twisted a sheet of paper towel into rope and twist it into each case to speed up the drying.
I did try using a Cascade “Platinum” dishwasher machine pod the cases came out very clean but the case colour was a dark gold not bright like new brass, very well passivated.
If your brass is tarnishing quickly I would look around the storage area for something that spewing fumes that is attacking the brass. Animal, vegetable or mineral, automotive chemicals, sulphur will tarnish brass real quick.
Relatively new to the SS pin cleaning and hadn't heard of the auto wash/wax before. Will definitely try it. What I haven't seen mentioned is I dry the case insides with a shot of air from my air compressor. Cleans out any trapped water in the rifle cases.
I have used both wet and dry tumble methods for several years. I wet tumble with hot tap water, dawn dish soap and about 1/8th teaspoon of lemi-shine in HF rock tumblers for 30 minutes. After they dry(usually overnight) I dry tumble in a Lyman Turbo 1200 with walnut shell media, a cap full of mineral spirits and a cap full of Nufinish liquid car polish for 3 hours. I then store in plastic sealable tubs with no desiccant. I have had no problems with tarnish, knock wood.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |