need help with electric smoker control

[hc18flyer]

I made a refrigerator sized smoker several years ago. I used an oven element for my heat source along with a scavenged oven control with remote bulb. The control failed last year, and the one I found to replace it has too wide of 'throttling range'. I need a 110v control with a remote bulb, capable of 100- 250 degrees? I do have access to Grainger and Johnstone, but I would like to save $. I know a PID would work, but seems like overkill? Any suggestions for me? THANKS in advance for your replies, Flyer

[anotherred]

I've been kicking around building a smoker and using a PID to control it. With the price of them so cheap on Ebay, why not?

[hc18flyer]

I just finished 25# each of pepperoni sticks and summer sausage in mine yesterday. This summer I smoked 80# of pork butts for a dinner. I need to make my smoke box easier to use and get a better temp controller. Honestly I have not much money and a little time in mine. I am anxious to try Wednesday's sausage, pep stick are fine! Flyer

[MaryB]

PID is probably about equal to an older mechanical control in price and will be far more accurate for temp control.

[1_Ogre]

A PID will keep your electric smoker within +/- 5deg and is a good investment. We have two people here on this site that I know make them and they warrant their work. OBIII and Kyle623 are both VS and crank out good products, give them a PM and they respond with all the help you need

[jmorris]

I have built several PID controlled smokers.

This is an old wood one that I converted to pellet.

I used a small fan to force air down a box tube.



An auger runs inside the tube and notice the little heater element below the auger tube, this ignites the wood pellets when you first turn it on. You can also see the 1/2" holes where the air is introduce into the "fire pot". Just this small amount of fire can take the smoker over 450 degrees.



The little black box on the side is a timer for the heating element, so it only runs a few minutes after turning on the smoker and turns off after the fire is started. The PID (on the ground) has a thermocouple that is inside the smoker and turns on the auger when more heat is needed and off when the set point is reached.



This is what it looks like finished and years of use. Just plug in and set your temperature and your done. It will run 16 hours in 28 deg F ambient temp on one mortar can full of pellets.

[jmorris]

This is the first smoker I built and after I "nuked" a brisket while working in the garage, the first PID controller I built.

The little paddle looking thing by the ash bucket is what I originally used and just put back so wasps don't try and make a home.



Just a PID with thermocouple in the smoke stack that controls an old power window motor connected to a 1/4-28 stainless steel all thread that runs through a brass coupler that allows the motor to open or close a stainless steel damper at the bottom of the fire box. Not unlike a flat slide carburetor.



On a "mature" fire and no wind I have seen this one maintain temp inside a single degree F, just varying in tenths of a degree.

[jmorris]

This one is real close to the one above just a different PID and window motor. Also added manual controls for the damper and the timer is for starting a fire if your asleep, out hunting etc.



Uses an ignition coil and solenoid and stainless steel burner in the bottom of the fire box to light the wood fire for the preset duration of time, using propane.



1/2" thick firebox with ceramic insulation and stainless covering the insulation, when its running, it's like a kiln inside. The grate and ash pan slide out and the square winds op over the damper so no coals fall out.



The additional BTU output is needed because the smoker has 42 cubic feet of cooking area.

[Fishman]

Jmorris, you never cease to amaze. The automation on the fire pits are neat.

[hc18flyer]

I found a Robertshaw 60-250 degree mechanical therm on Amazon for $75 shipped. I may have to get a PID for my Lee 4-20 pot? Flyer

[MaryB]

I use an $18 PID and a solid state relay to control my freezer to fridge conversion.