Here's an article that outlines how to clean after corrosive ammo.
http://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm
Obviously not the only way.
Here's an article that outlines how to clean after corrosive ammo.
http://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm
Obviously not the only way.
John
W.TN
I put my finger on the muzzle and fill it up with water on the breech side. Remove finger to drain, then two dry patches and off to the races with wipe-out and finish with ATF.
I still have a couple of gallons of the GI bore cleaner use it on all the mil surplus ammo and my bp rifle too. Just make sure you oil the bore good when done cleaning.
All milsurp commie ammo has berdan corrosive primers.
There are aftermarket commie ammo brands that are not, but they will cost more than milsurp.
Brands like Bear, Wolf, and PPU (what I use) are export ammo that is made for sale here and is built with regular primers.
I choose PPU because they are reloadable brass, where the others use steel cases which most folks throw away.
I have sworn on the altar of GOD eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.Thomas Jefferson
" Any law that is NOT constitutional is not a law" James Madison
Given the diet of corrosive my Mosins received during their operative life and the still excellent condition of their bores all I can say is that if Ivan in Stalingrad could mantain his rifle despite the quality of ammo, I can do even better in the comfort of my local shooting range.
Take the 15 minutes to completely tear down the bolt on the Mosin..simple task and clean and lube the firing pin,the spring, and clean it all up...lots of folks forget the corrosive salts can attack the bolt interior...I clean the whole shebang with warm soapy water...rinse really well...dry as best I can...use Hoppe's 9 in a normal cleaning...lube...all are still like new. I will carry a squeeze bottle of Windex with Ammonia with me and If I am going to be a while getting home I squirt some down the bore and into the bolt face...I patch with a Windex wet patch and then run a dry one through...think it gives a bit of protection till that night when I can clean it...or if all else fails...do like the Russian soldiers did...urinate down the bore and all over the bolt and wipe it down...the ammonia kills the salts...wash up before dinner.
Advice on ammo has turned into a lecture on how to clean after shooting corrosive ammo.
Buy whatever ammo you'd like. You won't know how it will shoot in YOUR gun until you try it. I have several mosins; some shoot one type well, others do lousy with that type.
To the general cleaning issue, people will recommend windex, ammonia, WW2 GI bore cleaner, water, ballistol and water, whatever. All of the above work for one reason; the 'corrosive' part of corrosive primers is potassium chlorate residue- i.e. it is a salt. Salt is in and of itself NOT corrosive, but IS hygroscopic- it attracts moisture, and holds it. If you live in the desert and humidity is under 30 percent all the time, you don't have to worry about corrosive primers. Otherwise, you have to remove the salt. Back to our gallery of potential cleaners- they work because they have water in them. If it is the water doing the work- ideally with some detergent as a wetting agent- then it stands to reason that the solution with the most water- i.e. water itself- is the best. It dissolves the salts, and rinses them away. If you want to use a touch of ammonia for jacket fouling help, fine, but don't fall into the trap of thinking that windex or ammonia or something magically neutralizes corrosive fouling. As for the GI cleaner and Ballistol/water mix, they have the advantage of also having a water soluble oil mixed in, so they provide some preservative action as well. But the cleaning part is, was, and always will be water.
+1 jonk...well said..sometime in the life of most WW2 era firearms....corrosive ammo was used. And the firearm you have now, was cleared of corrosive agents...well, most were. There is nothing to fear from milsurp corrosive ammo...just treat your firearm right!
People It's a Nagant from mother russia. Stick on the bayonet, pull the bolt, Stick the bayonet in the ground and piss down the barrel. All done.
dave
The only part of the metric system America has embraced is the 9mm.
Remember incoming fire has the right of way
Don't see a lecture...I see a bunch of guys trying to help someone that asked about corrosive ammo...Don't know but the OP might be a newer shooter of old Milsurps with the 47 posts he has...or he may have tons of experience...I've been shooting since I was about 11 years old...thats well over 60 years ago and I still pick up things from folks that share on the boards...so if I lectured I guess that's one man's opinion.
Of the many words and probably hundreds of pages I have read over the years on cleaning up after corrosive primers.....THIS IS THE MOST MEMORABLE I HAVE EVER READ! Btw my grandpa (a ww2 area vet) swore by using GI bore cleaner and cigar ashes. I never understood his science but hey, it worked for him and made him happy. I've used winshield washer fluid, not because it was the best, it was what I had in the car at the time.
All this leads into another question(s). How much vodka should I drink before I piss down the bore of a russian rifle? Should I post pics of my next cleaning session? After a visit to my local walmart I found out most men can't hit a urnal, you expect them to hit a 7.62x54 chamber? Yes, this is an attempt at humor.
Tennessee Hunter Education Instructor
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |