A gun show will be in my area this next weekend. I want to buy a can of military ammo for my Mossin Nagant. I have heard that not all of the military cartridges are corrosive. So what do I look for? Which countrey made the no corrosive ammo?
A gun show will be in my area this next weekend. I want to buy a can of military ammo for my Mossin Nagant. I have heard that not all of the military cartridges are corrosive. So what do I look for? Which countrey made the no corrosive ammo?
I do not know of any military surplus in 7.62x54r that is not corrosive. Some of the bulk new production non corrosive Russian ammo is packaged a bit like repackaged surplus.
Never heard tell of mil surp nagant ammo that was not corrosive, lots of rifles chambered for it are still around and in good shape, don't be scared of it just give the old girl a bath when she's dirty.
I bought 500 reloadable 182gr PPU rounds, just to avoid the old primer problems.
My PU will never have milsurp fired though it, while I own it.
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Exactly how does "operator error" equal primer problem? Not trying to be a wise crack but that is exactly how new shooters are put off. Corrosive primers are not a reason to not use the surplus ammo. Not cleaned correctly is the problem. Or maybe it is the "I can wait till whenever" that appeals to so many. Another shortcut....just to avoid the old primer problems.
ALL steel cased, Berdan primed Combloc 7.62x54R ball ammo, regardless of country of origin is corrosive.
Almost all brass cased Berdan primed 7.62x54R ammo is corrosive.
There is no such thing as "slightly" corrosive, it either is, or it isn't, just like being "a little bit pregnant"....
The only reliable source of noncorrosive ammo is either new production or post 1980 manufacture Boxer primed ammo from IK, nny, PPU, Norma, Sako, RWS, Winchester.
As a general rule, if the ammo has brass cases and is Boxer primed with reloadable brass, it is probably non-corrosive.
OK, I'll stop worrying about the military ammo, and just buy a 440 count can with the best price I can find.
I'll also sharpen my skills at cleaning the same day I shoot it.
thanks guys.
I clean my firearms after using corrosive ammo (and blackpowder) with boiling hot soapy water then rise with clean boiling water, then oil. Never had a problem. The hot water evaporates quickly.
INFIDEL
Shoot a little Windex with ammonia down the bore and follow with a patch wet with Windex. This will kill the corrosive salts. then clean normally and lube the bore and you will be ok with any of the milsurp ammo.
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This is the way a guy I met in '98 selling MN's at a local gun show told me to do and my brand new Polish 44 that I bought then still has a beautiful bore using only corrosive since the day it was bought, and both my 91/30's aren't any worse for wear using this method.
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While you are still at the range. run a couple of DRY patches down the barrel. This will take out about 80% of the nasty stuff. Then when you get home clean like normal. Come back the next day and clean it again. What is so hard about that? You don't need water. But that is the best way to take care of the salts that are from the primers. Windex is just water blue water so skip it. If you have to use it, go to the sink and pour some water in a jug and add some food coloring to the water to match the windex to make you feel good.
Brush or patch it out before you wet it will speed the cleaning. Try it. Since I started doing this, I only use about 4 patches when I used to use about 10.
I have issues with this method. Nothing personal, you understand. First, you cannot "kill" corrosive salts. They must be physically removed. Second, a 'little' Windex/water/whatever probably won't do the job. You need to flush the bore with whatever you use. Third, this method does absolutely nothing for the corrosive gases that have coated the bolt face, firing pin tip, and exterior of the muzzle.
After firing corrosive ammo I flush the bore with hot (usually soapy) water, then rinse with more hot water. I disassemble the bolt and wash the bolt face and firing pin with hot water, then I wash off all exposed metal at the muzzle. Once dry, clean and lube as for noncorrosive ammo and reassemble. I have never experienced rust caused by firing corrosive primed ammo.
I personally regard the recommendation to 'squirt a little Windex down the bore' as a shortcut that will eventually lead to a ruined rifle. Just MHO; take it for what it's worth.
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This is personal preference.
I choose to skip the extra cleaning step. You cant always get all of it out, with out spending more time than I care to. My 91/30 PU is new, and I choose to keep it that way.
Besides Im a precision shooter, I dont use any milsurp ammo period. I reload everything.
I have sworn on the altar of GOD eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.Thomas Jefferson
" Any law that is NOT constitutional is not a law" James Madison
Flushing with water is about the best advice yet but I'll say up front I really don't like having to clean them right away . To get around that problem I wait for a day when I don't have anything pressing then spend the day at the range and shoot as much as I want . Before leaving I do squirt some home made water based cleaner to flush out as much as a squirt bottle can . When it stops dripping I wrap a rag around the muzzle , take it home and clean it right . Since my home made mix has a little ammonia in it it does help work on jacket fouling .
Clean it , dry it , check on it the next day and still have bores as nice as the day the commies turned 'em in for a new AK . Now that I have laid in a stash of boxer primers cases and my milsurp ammo for the Mosin is gone I won't have to fuss with it . Another couple thousand rounds of Mauser ammo and I'll be done with that ...... might take a few years though .
Jack
I use a cotton bore mop wet with water through the bore while at the range so it us still warm. Rinse out the mop, wet again and repeat, then flush mop with Ed's Red, pass through the bore a couple times and leave slopy wet for the drive home. No later than the next day disassemble bolt and clean bore, etc. normally with Mil-C372B or Ed's Red. No rust issues
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |