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Thread: homemade lanolin & alcohol case lube?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    Anyone try denatured alchohol with lanolin? The batch I made was 10 parts alcohol to 1 part lanolin and I think I could get away with 12 to 1.

  2. #42
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    Question... I am going to make up some home brew case lube, and I've bought the liquid lanolin already. Instead of mixing it with alcohol, any problem mixing it with acetone? I figure the acetone would be water free, and evaporate away quicker than alcohol. (The fumes/odor don't bother me, and I would be using it outdoors and away from ignition sources anyway.)

    (Besides, if women can use acetone to remove nail polish without blowing themselves up, we should be able to safely use it too!! )

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
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  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    The alcohol evaporates slower so spreads further especially in a container.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmort View Post
    I use the "pure" 99% alcohol and pure liquid lanolin, makes 20 ounces, lasts forever. Spray a small amount and gently tumble lube.
    BINGO! The key is the 99%, not 91%
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    Denatured alcohol will NOT work, needs to be isopropyl. Different chemistry.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Removing anhydrous lanolin is a pain in the patootie.

  7. #47
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    So.... what of my idea to use acetone with the lanolin? I really think it would remain liquid and in place long enough to coat well, especially if done in a large, freezer type zip lock baggie then spread out to dry. Then they should dry very quickly and be ready to size.

    ???

    Vettepilot
    Last edited by Vettepilot; 02-26-2020 at 10:54 PM.
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    Never tried acetone, just went with ISO @91% and lanolin liquid @ 12-1 works. I do know if you rush and don’t let the alc flash off you will stick your brass in the die. Acetone might melt a spray bottle ISO won’t.

  9. #49
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    I have access to pure ethanol. That should work right? Never tried this type before. I tried the RCBS spray lube and proceeded to stick a 223 really bad. Used the rcbs tap and shell remover. Nope! Sent it to RCBS to have removed. That was over 20 years ago and have not tried any other type of spray lube since.

  10. #50
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    Heet works for me .

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich/WIS View Post
    Denatured alcohol will NOT work, needs to be isopropyl. Different chemistry.
    I've been using the isopropyl alcohol and lanolin at 12-1 for several years now. Works fine. I use it in a Dillon spray lube bottle (after the Dillon was all used up of course) and just shake it up good before spraying the cases. I use and old gold panning pan with the brass in it. I've had a replacement spray bottle of Dillon's spray lube on the shelf since I got 2 bottles several years ago. The home made lube has worked as well, so well I haven't got around to using the Dillon.

    After sizing I tumble (Thumbler) the cases for 15 - 20 minutes in dry pitch free saw dust. That removes the lube easily. The cases are then inspected for defects, any debris in the primer pockets (this is when I clean them) and anything in the case itself.
    Larry Gibson

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  12. #52
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    soap goods is a good place to find lanolin..
    We have enough gun control. What we need is idiot control.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettepilot View Post
    Question... I am going to make up some home brew case lube, and I've bought the liquid lanolin already. Instead of mixing it with alcohol, any problem mixing it with acetone? I figure the acetone would be water free, and evaporate away quicker than alcohol. (The fumes/odor don't bother me, and I would be using it outdoors and away from ignition sources anyway.)

    (Besides, if women can use acetone to remove nail polish without blowing themselves up, we should be able to safely use it too!! )

    Vettepilot
    You may get more than your anticipation using Acetone. It evaporates quickly attracting water from the air and can leave condensation on the brass. It's also bad for you to breathe!

  14. #54
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    I ordered a pound of lanolin from Randy Rat a member hear that has bee's wax as well , since - I have used it in multiple projects boolit lube , spray lube , and case lube with wonderful results .
    A member hear that has ' recently passed on ' recommended a mix of Vaseline / lanolin as a case lube that I have found to work as well as imperial wax .
    I'm sorry if I drifted this thread from spray lube but lanolin is a very useful ingredient give it a try . I find it easily removed with a run through the tumbler or a quick citrus bath .

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    I've been using the isopropyl alcohol and lanolin at 12-1 for several years now. Works fine. I use it in a Dillon spray lube bottle (after the Dillon was all used up of course) and just shake it up good before spraying the cases. I use and old gold panning pan with the brass in it. I've had a replacement spray bottle of Dillon's spray lube on the shelf since I got 2 bottles several years ago. The home made lube has worked as well, so well I haven't got around to using the Dillon.

    After sizing I tumble (Thumbler) the cases for 15 - 20 minutes in dry pitch free saw dust. That removes the lube easily. The cases are then inspected for defects, any debris in the primer pockets (this is when I clean them) and anything in the case itself.
    I also tumble after full length sizing to remove the isopropyl alcohol and lanolin residue. Not a pain to clean up at all. Very little extra for no dented cases or excessive effort to size.

  16. #56
    Boolit Buddy
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    A bit off topic here as well. If it's your own fired brass, (not range pickup/dirty, muddy, corroded,), is there really any problem doing all your brass prep first and then cleaning the brass?

    (In order to obviate the need to clean twice.) I wet tumble only.

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  17. #57
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettepilot View Post
    So.... what of my idea to use acetone with the lanolin? I really think it would remain liquid and in place long enough to coat well, especially if done in a large, freezer type zip lock baggie then spread out to dry. Then they should dry very quickly and be ready to size.

    ???

    Vettepilot
    How does the acetone react to the ziplock baggie?

    I think it might be better to clean the brass BEFORE you run it through dies.

  18. #58
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    The isopropyl alcohol works well. It acts as a thinning agent to allow the mixture to adhere to the brass and gives the user enough time to apply the mixture stir well and even let the brass sit for hours before sizing. After a while the alcohol evaporates leaving only the lanolin. After using this mixture for a few years now I am completely satisfied with it as is. When you can apply the mixture on the brass and stir the brass so to speak and then let it alone for 4 or 5 hours and then process it that tells me its a good mixture. I've used the expensive "One Shot" and no matter how thin I put it on or the attention to rolling the cases that I neatly set out on a new cookie sheet just for my sizing process I ALWAYS got some either dented cases or a stuck case. This type of spray just takes too much time. Using the lanolin and isopropyl alcohol allows sufficient time for the mixture to coat the brass just enough to do the job. Having a thinner with a quicker evap time I'm afraid would result in the probability of stuck cases. Acetone is a solvent, which means it can break down or dissolve substances like paint and varnish. That's why it's an ingredient in nail polish removers, varnish removers, and paint removers. Given the choice of acetone or isopropyl alcohol I'll take the alcohol.

  19. #59
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well, I believe I'll give it a try when I get a chance, and report back. I use acetone for a good many chores, including in my Ed's Red home made gun cleaning solvent. BTW, that stuff works GREAT!!

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  20. #60
    Boolit Master
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    I made Ed’s red minus acetone because I understand the acetone is mostly for removing plastic like shotgun cleaning. Also could ruin finish if got on wood, also might melt any plastic parts like found in some .22 rifles.

    Liquid lanolin, ISO Heat in red bottle, plastic baggy, 3-4 sprays, 25-30 pcs brass, shake n rub , dump, replete, size cases and I never reclean them. Great when stored long time or keeps Ammo from getting tarnished if sitting a while.
    If you over do the spray or to much lanolin then brass stays kinda greasy and might need a wipe off with rag to keep from attracting dust n dirt depending where you load your mags to shoot.

    Just my $ .02 worth, Mike

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check