Mosin Porn

[Bzcraig]

Ok, I have read so much about the Mosins that I have finally had my curiosity sufficiently aroused that I want to give one a try. I see them for sale in many places but I need some guidance. Please tell me what to look for, what to stay away from, etc. My desire would be to end up with a nice shooter that looks good too. Thankfully, I do have limited funds so what should be my budget when it is all said and done? Knowing that 'looks good' is subjective showing me some of your Mosin porn would help.

Craig

[Frank46]

When I used to buy guns I would take along a cleaning rod and brush and patches. And a bore light. If the dealer wouldn't let me pass a brush or patch I thanked him and moved on. Don't be worried about the external finish so much as what the bore looks like. I've seen almost mint rifles with horrible bores and vice versa. Frank

[Piedmont]

The Finns are the best. Get one with a Finn barrel, not just a Finn capture. A Finn capture will have the SA stamp and perhaps a spliced stock but the barrel will be from whatever country manufactured it (from Westinghouse or Remington, to Cyrillic gobbledegook you won't be able to read). VKT, Sako, or Tikka (T in a triangle, I think) will be what you want to see on the barrel. The M28/30 and M39 have screw adjustable front sights for windage, which is handy. I have not kept up with the market but the last batch I recall was M39s and they may still be available.

A 28/30 or M39 will give a Swiss K31 a run for the money as far as accuracy goes. You will need to shoot good ammo in the Mosin to do that, however, not commie ball. The rifle will probably run around $300.

[wallenba]

Get some pin gages, from about .301- to .303-. You can check the bore which will give an indication of how the groove will be. Smaller the better, .300 would be outstanding. Avoid a counter-bored muzzle if possible, Not necessarily a bad thing, but you should be able to find one not counter-bored. A pre-war, 1941 or earlier will have better workmanship. A Tula manufactured rifle is usually better than an Izhevsk, definitely better than a Sestroryesk. Tula rifles have a large star stamped on the receiver. A hex receiver is always nice too. Some will have laminated stocks, you will pay a bit more for those, around here anyway. Ex-sniper versions out there too. Identifiable by the tell tale welded over scope mount hole found inside left portion of the receiver near the interruptor. Matching numbers are very desirable too. Bolt, receiver, magazine box and butt plate.

[Lead Fred]

This is how we roll

[clownbear69]

With increasing want to stop importation of classic firearms (Obama wants this to be in an executive order), finding any mosin cheap is a good idea(130 and less). Even if it is not a shooter, parting it out maybe good. As said before get yourself a bore light. If you find a M44 with the bayonet cut off, DO NOT GET. They are meant to shoot with it. Personally my M44 has been a nightmare trying to find the perfect load. I first started with 147 surplus scatter like a shot gun even with the bayonet extended. I eventually shot 200gr and grouped well but with a 6" drop at 100 yards with the bayonet extended. Finally I found 185 grs and grouped well at 50 without the bayonet extended and scattered at 100. Haven't been out to the range in awhile but I think (and hope) I found my loading.

Suggestion: If you find a Tula with brass fittings they are a bit more desirable than a standard Tula. Typically out of 100 I would maybe see 5 at the most
Counterbore: It is a "dice" shoot, some worked other didn't
Try to keep original: I like comparing the mosin in todays market to the K98 in the market after WW2. Many people have sportarised them which will diminish value on the sporter but not on an orginal one. Now try finding an original k98 peened or not for under 300 bucks

I hope I helped I know my typing isn't that good.

[Gtek]

"This is how we roll" - please say that is how Fred rolls. Scoping the wife on a poop run? I hope she loves you forever, the attorney will have a blast with this one. Gtek

[nicholst55]

Get some pin gages, from about .301- to .303-. You can check the bore which will give an indication of how the groove will be. Smaller the better, .300 would be outstanding. Avoid a counter-bored muzzle if possible, Not necessarily a bad thing, but you should be able to find one not counter-bored. A pre-war, 1941 or earlier will have better workmanship. A Tula manufactured rifle is usually better than an Izhevsk, definitely better than a Sestroryesk. Tula rifles have a large star stamped on the receiver. A hex receiver is always nice too. Some will have laminated stocks, you will pay a bit more for those, around here anyway. Ex-sniper versions out there too. Identifiable by the tell tale welded over scope mount hole found inside left portion of the receiver near the interruptor. Matching numbers are very desirable too. Bolt, receiver, magazine box and butt plate.

Excellent advice. I would personally avoid anything made during either the Great War or WWII; the rifles cranked out during WWII range from downright horrible to merely atrocious. I have a 1925 Tula with all matching numbers (but neither all original nor all Tula!) that is a comparatively very nice rifle. I owned a 1942 Izhevsk that was rougher than a cob, but had a nearly new barrel. Go figure!

Sporterizing a Mosin is much like owning a boat; you never finish working on it, and you'll never get your money back out of it if you decide to sell it. I prefer to make easily reversible modifications to mine, that don't effect resale value or authenticity.

[opos]

Got bit by the Mosin bug a while back...have a couple of "unmodified" 91-30's...only "addition" is a slip on recoil pad which is a blessing..They are round receiver, dead stock..a 42 and a 43...all numbers matching....good solid bores that are shiny and are not counterbored. Wood is solid...came with all the "stuff"...both had been cleaned of cosmo and were nice and clean all over...I used a cheap little Oakie no go gauge to check headspace (takes about 20 seconds) and checked the firing pin protrusion (you tube is full of videos and the little funny looking screwdriver tool is what you use)...With all this in order have been shooting the milsurp ammo (light ball) I buy by the case from SG ammo in Oklahoma...they get it now and then and it's great...it's corrosive so a little Windex with ammonia to clean things up at the range and then a good cleaning with Hoppe's #9 when I get home (don't forget the bolt face and firing pin area).
I've had a great time with them...kick like a mule...accurate...big fireball and all for under a couple of hundred bucks and the ammo runs about $100 for 440 rounds...most fun you can have with your clothes on.

Then if you want to get creative .There is a pic of my "scout rifle" (now has a scope where the rear sight is located)..short barrel, really loud, big flash and really accurate...Alsopics posted of my "long range" rifle with the 16x scope, bipod, etc...It's a real tack driver with hand loads...big and clumsy but a hoot to shoot.

If you get one...you will get more...and why not? Preferred would be numbers matching (no big deal if the butt plate is different but I like a matching receiver and bolt)...try to get one with a really nice and smooth and shiny bore that is not counterbored...they tell me it's ok with a counterbore but I got to wonder what else is worn out. Look for cracks and breaks in the wood...the wood is shellac finish and is on birch wood so will never look like a nice walnut stock.

I've never had one that didn't headspace but I bought the 1 no go gauge to double check...figure if a round will chamber that's a "go" so don't need a go gauge...if it does not close on the no go gauge..it's ok and I don't worry about the Field gauge...

Attachment 81941
Attachment 81942
Attachment 81943
Attachment 81944

[JHeath]

The scope photo above represents a flagrant safety violation. It is in extremely bad taste. It discredits the forum and the people who participate. There should be no place for it on this site.

[WILCO]

Please tell me what to look for, what to stay away from, etc. My desire would be to end up with a nice shooter that looks good too.

Spend the time, do the reasearch and you'll buy with confidence.

[WILCO]

I bought my first one from Gander Mountain based on the fact that it would be looked over by a qualified gunsmith, cleaned and ready to go. No regrets.

[WILCO]

Forgot to add that it's an arsenal rework too.

[WILCO]

http://www.slickguns.com/cr-deals

[tomme boy]

The scope photo above represents a flagrant safety violation. It is in extremely bad taste. It discredits the forum and the people who participate. There should be no place for it on this site.

If you look, he has the scope in his hand. Nothing wrong with what he is doing.

[JHeath]

If you look, he has the scope in his hand. Nothing wrong with what he is doing.

The "joke" is that he's pointing a rifle scope at the head of a woman standing innocently some distance away. There is everything wrong with it. It has nothing to do with cast boolits, or responsible shooting, or anything else that belongs on this forum. Anybody should be embarrassed to have posted or defended it, because it is indefensible.

[tomme boy]

That is what that rifle was made to do. If you don't like like it. Get over it and move on. The Russians were not bashful about who they killed or what method they used.

[graphic914]

the smoothest bolt I have! wish the trigger was a 2 stage

[Lead Fred]

Fight nice kids, the offending pic has been removed,

Now back to the Mosin porn!

[aspangler]

Got a flyer from Century International today and they had arsenal reworks for $129. Check them out.