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Thread: Mauser 98 bolt sticks

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Goodsteel may have a good answer. Check the last screw hole on the front receiver ring to make sure no one drilled into the top lug on the receiver. Sometimes shoddy workmanship does this and the screw hole will either have a partially drilled hole either in the lug itself or in the front of it. That will make opening and closing the bolt harder. Frank

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    TCLouis's Avatar
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    If it is not the scope mount screws (front too), then is it possible that there is some setback in the receiver ring?
    Amendments
    The Second there to protect the First!

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub concho's Avatar
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    A Smith sounds like a Black smith did the work , I have seen work by so called gunsmiths ! I have also done work for people who brought guns to me that were told they were wall hangers , do some research before giving you gun to some butcher who is only a parts exchanger , ask where they were trained ? look at the wall for papers showing their ability to be a gun repair person , my wall has 2 for anyone to see and from accredited hands on schools of training ! 1 Master gunsmith school ,1 PA Machinist , over 20 years ! It just strikes me funny that a person will baulk at the price from Bronells hourly rates or flat rate for a job , and say Hell I only paid $25.00 for the gun , $35.00 is too much to fix it ! But they will take their car to a garage and pay 3 times what it is wroth for inspection in PA .

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    It is possible that the front receiver ring is crushed by the clamping, when the barrel was installed. Have seen this before. This may be why there are three spots binding on the bolt. The toolman.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I'm having the same problem with a re barelled 98. It binds when it is screwed down in the stock, but not when the screws are loosened. No protrusion of rear screw, but no tube for rear screw. It seems like the action is getting tweeked by a bad inletting job. It is sticky on the front as well as the rear of bolt travel. Tighten it down hard enough and its extremely hard to move.
    Would a tube be required on the rear screw on a wooden stock?
    When the Cambrian measures were forming, They promised perpetual peace.
    They swore, if we gave them our weapons, that the wars of the tribes would cease.
    But when we disarmed They sold us and delivered us bound to our foe,
    And the Gods of the Copybook Headings said: "Stick to the Devil you know."

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommag View Post
    I'm having the same problem with a re barelled 98. It binds when it is screwed down in the stock, but not when the screws are loosened. No protrusion of rear screw, but no tube for rear screw. It seems like the action is getting tweeked by a bad inletting job. It is sticky on the front as well as the rear of bolt travel. Tighten it down hard enough and its extremely hard to move.
    Would a tube be required on the rear screw on a wooden stock?
    Yes....

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

    Reg's Avatar
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    A tube might be a start but it actually sounds like you need a whole complete rebed. A Accraglass kit here could do wonders.


    Quote Originally Posted by tommag View Post
    I'm having the same problem with a re barelled 98. It binds when it is screwed down in the stock, but not when the screws are loosened. No protrusion of rear screw, but no tube for rear screw. It seems like the action is getting tweeked by a bad inletting job. It is sticky on the front as well as the rear of bolt travel. Tighten it down hard enough and its extremely hard to move.
    Would a tube be required on the rear screw on a wooden stock?
    Facta non verba

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub concho's Avatar
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    Would a tube be required on the rear screw on a wooden stock? When I attended Gun school the tube was thrown away and action was fitted solid on bedding or wood .

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

    Reg's Avatar
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    Some people swear by tubes or pillar bedding , some swear at it. I have found that a good glass bedding, full length of the receiver then properly fitting in the bottom metal ( hold that clearance between the top of the magazine and the bottom of the receiver ) and do not tighten too tightly the guard screws will do the trick. You want that receiver to just lay in natural with no forces pushing or pulling on it. Also I usually build up about 2 to 3 layers of blue tape on the bottom of the recoil lug. When you pull the metal out for the first time make sure that tape is removed from the bottom of the lug. This will give clearance to the bottom of the lug and save you time scraping it out to get the clearance. Also make sure you have proper clearance at the very rear of the receiver so that it dosn't act as a wedge during firing. With glass bedding .010 is sufficient, just in the wood alone you need more.
    A lot of people flat do not like glass bedding but it has it's place.
    Facta non verba

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks, Jeff H, Reg, and Concho.
    I bought an acriglass kit thinking I'd try it on a 788 that doesn't fit very well, but it looks like this 98 will be my first attempt.
    Between the bedding and mis-drilled receiver sight hole, I think I know why I got such a bargain.
    When the Cambrian measures were forming, They promised perpetual peace.
    They swore, if we gave them our weapons, that the wars of the tribes would cease.
    But when we disarmed They sold us and delivered us bound to our foe,
    And the Gods of the Copybook Headings said: "Stick to the Devil you know."

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

    Reg's Avatar
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    If it's the Brownell's kit, follow the directions and you can't go wrong.
    Facta non verba

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommag View Post
    Thanks, Jeff H, Reg, and Concho.
    I bought an acriglass kit thinking I'd try it on a 788 that doesn't fit very well, but it looks like this 98 will be my first attempt.
    Between the bedding and mis-drilled receiver sight hole, I think I know why I got such a bargain.
    For what it's worth, I agree with Reg on the bedding, but without the tube, it's not as easy to GET it bedded properly - at least for me. Getting the tube the right length is crucial but not difficult. Bottom line is that the bottom metal is not stressing the receiver. The tube makes that easier. Rather than go into all the tiny details about it here, I still recommend Jerry Kuhnhausen's book even for a guy with one Mauser. He says it better, doesn't forget (it's all written down) little details and he'll answer you while you're sitting on the toilet, while I will not. Well, he'll answer sort of answer - just pick up his book and find where you left off.

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy
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    Start from scratch:
    1. Take the action out of the stock and put it in a vice of some type with some blocks, and hold it by the barrel. Now start functioning it without bottom metal, and bolt guts.
    2.If this works alright hold the bottom metal to the action, and see if it works. (NO stress!)
    3. As you add parts, and remove parts, it will become aparent where the problem is.

    Guys: we are making simple hard. Induction, deduction, observation, postulation. I think it is called the "Scientific Method." We even use it in working with guns....

    PS: I hope it isn't lug set back. If so it's a junker. This exercise should tell you quickly.

    An Impatent Old Fart.

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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