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Thread: Anyone use the Forster Hollow Pointer?

  1. #21
    In Remembrance
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    It's a rare day that I disagree with Larry (Gibson), so chalk down today, Wednesday, 28 August 2013 as a rare day.

    I have the Forster hollow-pointing system and quite honestly I think it is the single biggest PITA on my reloading bench--exceeding even the nebulous Lee Safety Scale as far as "pain-in-the-*** factors" go.

    Even with the "guide," it is far too easy to get the hollow-point off center and that is with SWC and RN alike. I'm not all that big of a fan of hollow-point projectiles anyhow, especially in lead, but I bought the setup several pieces at a time "just to have" in case I ever felt a need or desire to HP any boolits.

    Now, in fairness (to Larry), I do not have the do-dad attachment thing that I can chuck it in a power screw driver, but there just isn't much about the (Forster) system that I like so far as hollow-pointing boolits is concerned. I love Forster equipment, just not this one.

    WAY too much work for a hit or miss proposition (will the hole be centered or not).

    Should I ever get motivated, I may look for some way to rig it up in my drill press using the Lee 3-jaw universal chuck so that the cartridge is spinning instead of the drill bit. May help center things, but honestly I don't know.


  2. #22
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    WilliamDahl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhn22 View Post
    Also keep in mind that the lead you displace with your punch needs to have somewhere to go, otherwise you may simple reinvent the reversed hollowbase wadcutter trick.
    I expected to see the nose diameter to increase slightly and I was going to be testing on .40 TC bullets, so I used a #1 Phillips insert bit. Even used a new bit that I had yet to booger up.



    The nose of the bullet definitely expanded -- more than my initial estimates even, but not so much that the bullet no longer had some taper to its nose. If I pushed the bit in too far, the nose would develop cracks (along with being rather difficult to remove). After a couple of experiments, I decided that inserting the bit further than the end of the grooves on the side of the bit was not conducive to maintaining the integrity of the nose of the bullet.

    I guess I could see how being able to "swage" some type of new head on a bullet *could* be useful.
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  3. #23
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    If you don't have a lathe then I can see this as being a viable alternative tool.

    It does look like getting the bushing lined up with the centerline of the boolit maybe a variable. But the trimmer's spindle should be in line so all the bushing is doing is preventing the drill from wandering while it is establishing the hole.

    Once the hole is established you could finish it on a drill press running slowly.

    Randy
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    I've been using the Forster HP tool for many years. I have HP'd thousands of cast bulets with it. I find it easy to use and it can be used quickly. I use both the 1/16th and 1/8th HP tools. I also use an electric screwdriver to power mine. It is simple and easy to HP cast bullets with the Forster tool. Best feature is any cast bullet may be HP'd, a HP mould is not needed.

    HP cast bullets are very effective on game and are proven quicker killers than other forms of cast bullets. However to be successful the right alloy must be used to match the velocity. For a proper expanding HP for game the HP shouldn't be more than 3/16" deep I in a proper alloyed cast bullet. GC'd bullet is also best to use as softer malleable alloys can be used at higher velocity with accuracy for better terminal effect. The HP can be deeper for rapid expansion in varmints.

    I highly recommend the Forster HP tool.

    Larry Gibson

    I used to hunt jackrabbits with the .357 Mag with a Keith type SWC ( I believe it was .358477 ) Hollow pointed to half its length.
    Using a maximum charge of 2400. At 50 yards, the exit wound looked like they had been shot with a .243 75 grain hollow point.
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
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  5. #25
    Boolit Bub d_man2's Avatar
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    I have tried using my drill press, I think my biggest problem is I cannot get it to spin slow enough....it was slow, just not slow enough. I had the cartridge in the chuck held in place with a Lee Case trimmer holder, that part worked well. What I could not do was find a suitable way to mount the hollowpointer to the table on the drill press. If anyone has any ideas (that do not require a lathe to complete) I would appreciate any info/pictures of this. I was using the rifle hollowpointer and it is only a 1/16 drill bit, as I said I could not take it slow enough and it just broke my bit. I am sure the pistol pointer with the 1/8 would be a bit better but a 1/16 bit is simply not a strong enough tool to effectively do the job IMHO. For the 20 or so bullets that I did do before the bit broke it seemed to do a reasonable job, but if all I get is 20 bullets before the bit snaps off it is a waste of time and money. These are my observations of the tool. Now I am stuck with a hollow pointer and a bit holder that you cannot replace bits in. Yes I COULD order a new drill bit, but for what they charge for shipping to Canada it is TOTALLY not worth the 20 bullets I get pointed before it breaks again.
    Last edited by d_man2; 08-29-2013 at 02:15 PM.

  6. #26
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    D man2: next time you buy 1/16" drill bits buy "Stub length" bits.

    They are shorter and the fluted section of the drill is much shorter, resulting in a much stronger and stiffer drill bit that wont' wander as much.

    Also chucking them in the holder so not very much sticks out is another way to cut down on drill breakage.

    After looking at the holder again on Forrester's website I see that the drills appear to be pressed into the holder?

    If so then if you can push the drill shank out and save the holder the way to do it is to drill the hole with a 1/16" drill thru and then drill and tap thru the flat on the side with a set screw. This will make your holder able to change bits.

    IF you can't remove the old drill then using a piece of 1/4" round stock or whatever size the original is, and make a new holder is a simple project. Finding a friend with a lathe would speed things up.

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 08-29-2013 at 05:26 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by d_man2 View Post
    I have tried using my drill press, I think my biggest problem is I cannot get it to spin slow enough....it was slow, just not slow enough. I had the cartridge in the chuck held in place with a Lee Case trimmer holder, that part worked well. What I could not do was find a suitable way to mount the hollowpointer to the table on the drill press. If anyone has any ideas (that do not require a lathe to complete) I would appreciate any info/pictures of this. I was using the rifle hollowpointer and it is only a 1/16 drill bit, as I said I could not take it slow enough and it just broke my bit. I am sure the pistol pointer with the 1/8 would be a bit better but a 1/16 bit is simply not a strong enough tool to effectively do the job IMHO. For the 20 or so bullets that I did do before the bit broke it seemed to do a reasonable job, but if all I get is 20 bullets before the bit snaps off it is a waste of time and money. These are my observations of the tool. Now I am stuck with a hollow pointer and a bit holder that you cannot replace bits in. Yes I COULD order a new drill bit, but for what they charge for shipping to Canada it is TOTALLY not worth the 20 bullets I get pointed before it breaks again.

    Maybe that is why I see only the 1/8th size HP tool listed on the Forster site.......breakage?
    Seems like they *should* be made to change the bit out upon breakage......questionable design for sure.

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub d_man2's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments guys. Yes the 1/16 is still there....the 1/8 is for pistol. The drill bit itself is pushed into a 1/4 in hex shank. The Hex shank drill bits of this size are VERY difficult to find as singles....only in sets and to be honest I do not want to buy a new set every time I need a drill bit...I have tried to remove the bit from the hex head but have not figured out how to do that as of yet. I just really don't think I am going to bother with it anymore. I have the bullet in the chuck on the drill and there really is not a good way to hold the hex head drill bit.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by d_man2 View Post
    I have tried to remove the bit from the hex head but have not figured out how to do that as of yet.
    Have you tried heating it?
    NATURAL BORN CITIZEN = offspring of TWO US citizens
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  10. #30
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    Examples of cast I've HP'd with the Forster. I prefer the 1/8th for use on all cast of 30+ cal.

    Larry Gibson

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub d_man2's Avatar
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    Larry, those are nice indeed. I have been contemplating running a 1/8 drill through my 1/16 hollow pointer. I am out nothing to try after all I won't be using the 1/16 anymore anyways. I will post results when I am done.

  12. #32
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    Well, those hp's look to be in the middle of the meplat to me.
    Nice indeed.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check