$10 epoxy coat can it be done? lets find out

[bangerjim]

Looks like this is it?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VHT-EPOXY...e7bf9a3&_uhb=1

I'd like to give it a go on some pure lead Lee 230gr TL in .452
As long as I can get away with no baking...any more non bakers getting good results out there?
TIA

I experiment around with ALL the technologies for coating found in these forums and have settled on the ES gun application for speed, repeatability, low cost, and just plain easy to do.

But......I have tried several brands of spray-on epoxies, including VHT, and have found ALL of them work best when baked per the instructions on the cans. Without baking: 1) it may take DAYS for the stuff to dry completely hard, 2) the molecular bond chains do not form properly, 3) usually the stuff will scrape off easily even after setting for a week.

So, the chemical formulations are based upon baking. Unfortunately, those times are MUCH longer than the short 10 minutes it takes for PERFECT powder coating. And the spray cans cost a whole lot more per boolit than powder coating.

Hope you can find powder around where you are!

Good luck.

bangerjim

[HNSB]

I did not bake mine. IIRC, the can does not say to bake. It will scratch easily if you mess with it before it's cured. Don't handle the bullets for 24 hours.
I didn't load mine for a week after coating. I don't know if that made a difference.

Baking might shorten the cure time...

[Tazza]

I bought a 20 litre drum of stuff from a place that used to coat projectiles, they have since closed that side down. There is no label left on the drum, but it works great.

The technique they use to apply it is called dip-spin. The way i apply it is to load about 500 projectiles into a basket that i modified to sit in a drum that you use a drill to spin the excess coating off. Dunk the basket with projectiles in the coating, lift it up and let the excess run off. Put the basket into a drum and spin, this allows you to collect excess coating. I then pour out the coated projectiles onto a piece of laminated timber to dry. When dry, you cook them in an oven (not the kitchen oven) at 180c for 12 minutes. Let them cool and repeat the coating process twice more, cooking between coats. They do look terrible between coats, it's a very thin coating, but every extra coat you do, they look closer to what they should be.

Mine is on a far smaller scale than the people used that i got the stuff off, but it works all the same. Works great in my .38 super race gun, and in my mates glock too. No leading at all.

[eljefeoz]

Yup,Banger J.
Experiment.
I have a couple of kilos of bullet lube to experiment with, and now this.
Tried 2 different auto shops-REPCO included.they had a fair bit of the VHT stuff, but not the epoxy spray.
Well, I was hoping to change the bright red of my little Lee into a shiny black AND do some boolits in the process.
Will get back if it happens. Now to look for a little toaster oven and the shake and bake process- managed a cup of PC paint... ;

[Tazza]

eljefeoz - i assume you tried supercheap already?

[Ken73]

While I'll stick to ESPC method myself, this may be a great way to put a light coat on the bottom of already-PC'ed boolits. Spray a bit onto a small sponge and just dab the bottoms onto it? I'm going to pick up a can and try it!

[eljefeoz]

eljefeoz - i assume you tried supercheap already?

Yup I did, mate. Been asked to check out a speciality paint shop,will do that tomorrow. Both the places had the VHT copper finish,enamel, and other higher temp jobs, but not the purple label epoxy

[bangerjim]

While I'll stick to ESPC method myself, this may be a great way to put a light coat on the bottom of already-PC'ed boolits. Spray a bit onto a small sponge and just dab the bottoms onto it? I'm going to pick up a can and try it!

Check out #161 & #165 on this thread. I used my standard ES PC's matte black slugs and sprayed them with "paint-like" epoxy paints from VHT and Krylon. Both ARE baked on top of the cured PC. Paint adheres very well...will not scrape off at all. But baking is the key.

It is imperative you bake most any of this stuff. If it says epoxy, bake it. Usually at the time/temp listed on the can. If not listed, use 20 min at about 230-250F.

I see old toaster ovens at junk store all the time for $5-15. I bought a new $85 super-duper one for my wife and took the one in the kitchen that is a convection style. I have an old standard one ($3 at junk store) and the convection is FAR superior in temp distribution and performance. Try to avoid the cheap non-convection ones......you may be disappointed with your results.

bangerjim

[eljefeoz]

A quick clarification: anyone here tried baking ' epoxy enamel'?
I saw a few cans of Dulux epoxy enamel, but nothing which said 'Epoxy' as posted by the OP
TIA

[bangerjim]

A quick clarification: anyone here tried baking ' epoxy enamel'?
I saw a few cans of Dulux epoxy enamel, but nothing which said 'Epoxy' as posted by the OP
TIA

Try it! There are many paint formulations, so it is hard to know.

If it is epoxy, chances are it needs to be baked to activate the polymer links. I would not trust non-bake epoxies for what we need them to do.

Baking standard enamel paint will make it dry much faster ( it takes a week for all the VOC's to completely evaporate from enamel) but will not come close to true epoxy formulations.

Good luck!

banger

[Ken73]

Check out #161 & #165 on this thread. I used my standard ES PC's matte black slugs and sprayed them with "paint-like" epoxy paints from VHT and Krylon. Both ARE baked on top of the cured PC. Paint adheres very well...will not scrape off at all. But baking is the key.

It is imperative you bake most any of this stuff. If it says epoxy, bake it. Usually at the time/temp listed on the can. If not listed, use 20 min at about 230-250F.

Gotcha. My purpose is simply to fully encapsulate already PC'ed boolits (just the base.) I figured I could take the PC'ed boolits off the tray (cooled of course,) doink them on a sponge that's been sprayed with the epoxy paint to get it on, then lay back in the toaster oven and bake for a bit longer. Just something to coat the base to prevent lead vaporization.

[Skip62]

Try it! There are many paint formulations, so it is hard to know.

If it is epoxy, chances are it needs to be baked to activate the polymer links. I would not trust non-bake epoxies for what we need them to do.

Baking standard enamel paint will make it dry much faster ( it takes a week for all the VOC's to completely evaporate from enamel) but will not come close to true epoxy formulations.

Good luck!

banger

Ah, Klass Kote is a no bake epoxy paint. I and others have shot thousands this summer, no problems. You can warm them to 125, per KK's instructions to speed the curing process, but not needed. I stay way ahead of my needs, so waiting a week is not a problem at all. VHT is also a no bake. The 250° on the front of the can is the temp it's good to, not the temp to cure at. I've done those to. It's all in how they are formulated.

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk

[eljefeoz]

one used oven toaster coming up...

[Skip62]

one used oven toaster coming up...

That's exactly why I use KK. I've bought 2 toasters and neither one held temp within less than 100. I do use a heat gun briefly to cure quicker for following coats, but I've not bothered many times.

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[eljefeoz]

Skip
I may as well track down some VHT come Wednesday . It's the long weekend here for the Melbourne Cup.I did see VHTstuff which said 500*F , but it wasn't epoxy...I may as well try some unbaked too

[eljefeoz]

Thought I'd give it a whirl:
some Lee 452 TL 230 w/ PB: Chilled shot 4:1, and a batch of a dozen Lee .309 with same alloy

2 coats spaced 24h apart- its a cold wet day so far. will stretch a bit, and cure them tomorrow at 200* C in an oven, as per curing advice on can...

[eljefeoz]

sized to 0.452", smashed.
not a flake disturbed.
lets see how they do...

[beex215]

this is one of the reasons why cast boolits is a great site. this is on my must try list.

[HNSB]

With the cold MN weather and repeated loading and unloading in my Marlin 1895, the VHT has not held up well.
The damage is only aesthetic though, I'm sure what's inside the case remains coated fine.

[AlaskanGuy]

I tried the white vht yesterday.... Was not too happy... Just diddnt get real hard, and could be scraped off with a fingernail... No joy on the white... Back to the melting pot... Will post pics tomorow. I did post in another thread here in the lube area.
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