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Thread: $10 epoxy coat can it be done? lets find out

  1. #301
    Boolit Master



    jmort's Avatar
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    Good to see this thread is alive and well. As stated, there is more than one one to get a coating on a bullet. In the end, it would be nice to have a can of "Bullet Coating" spray that worked real good.
    "Had his shooting been as good as his running, he might have given a better account of himself."
    James. C. Henderson

  2. #302
    Boolit Master Smk SHoe's Avatar
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    Still like the epoxy in a can for large quantity's of .223 bullets. very quick. Started tumbling with ASBB and like it, a little more involving doing the tumbling ( i.e. to many bullets, not enough shaking, to many ASBB's ) so that's going to take some trial and error. HF powder coat gun was a disaster. I think each method has it's place. Spraying for quantity and tumbling for a stronger coating.

  3. #303
    Boolit Bub

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    It has been a while since anything was posted on this thread, I hope it isn't completely dead. What is BBDT? Nobody ever gave it's real name before going to acronym. Does that method require baking? Seems like every successful coating method does.
    NRA Lifetime member since 1956, NRA Endowment Member. Reloading since 1954. CBA Member Navy Vietnam Veteran USS Intrepid CVA 11

  4. #304
    Boolit Bub

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    Does this BBDT require an air compressor and spray gun?
    NRA Lifetime member since 1956, NRA Endowment Member. Reloading since 1954. CBA Member Navy Vietnam Veteran USS Intrepid CVA 11

  5. #305
    Boolit Master
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    Try reading the stickies in alternative coatings!!!!!! All will become evident!!!!!!!

    BBDT = airsoft BB Dry Tumble.
    ESPC - ElectroStatic gun Powder Coating (the way it was REALLY meant to be applied!)

    All acronyms are well explained. There is even a couple threads that cover every one we all use on a daily basis.

    ALL powder coating methods require baking for (at least) 10 minutes at 400F after the powder turns shiny.

    Again......well covered in the sticky.


    And I think the subject of this thread is pretty much dead.......expensive....long dry times....acquard to do.

    BBDT and ESPC are the realy ways to apply powder.

    And no......BBDT does NOT requre a copressor!!!!!!! Just elbow grease.

    banger

  6. #306
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    Okay, I've read almost everything (I think) on alternative coatings.

    Ordered all the powder coating stuff from Amazon.

    Still have a few questions:

    1. Why aren't the bullets sized before coating ?
    2. Gas checks, yes or no ?
    3. What about in rifles operating in the 1400-2000 fps range ?

    Thanks !

  7. #307
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Humble View Post
    Okay, I've read almost everything (I think) on alternative coatings.

    Ordered all the powder coating stuff from Amazon.

    Still have a few questions:

    1. Why aren't the bullets sized before coating ? SOME DO...SOME DON'T
    2. Gas checks, yes or no ? SOME DO....SOME DON'T.
    3. What about in rifles operating in the 1400-2000 fps range ? SOME DO....SOME DON'T

    Thanks !
    There are wide variations as noted above! Sizing depends on what your mold drops, what coating thickness you have, and what your gun likes to shoot.

    I use GC's above ~1400 FPS, but that has been proven to not be needed by some. GC's serve several functions.....flat bottom for accuracy....protections from blow-by......and others.

    I have read some on here shoot PC to 2300 FPS and higher. i do not.

    There is no set "rule" for anything we do. Experiment around and find what works for your loads, your guns, and your needs.

    Good luck in your endeavors.

    banger

  8. #308
    Boolit Master
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    I see flameproof VHT epoxy for up to 2,000f exhaust paint, is this a new product that might work?

  9. #309
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by NyFirefighter357 View Post
    I see flameproof VHT epoxy for up to 2,000f exhaust paint, is this a new product that might work?
    Not a new product, been around for a long time (i used some on exaust headsets about 20 years ago). Still have to set up bullets and get an even coat, and hi-temp paints require heat to fully cure.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  10. #310
    I recently gave the coated bullets a try and this VHT epoxy paint works great. I'm at 440 boolits so far and the can feels like it's got a few hundred to go before it runs out. So it's looking like less than $0.02 per boolit. Which, if you make a box of 100, adds $2 to the cost which is getting to be real money.

    However, I found that the process doesn't have to be nearly as time consuming as what was first described in this thread. Using nitrile gloves, I just stand the boolits on a cardboard box that is about a foot high. Keep 'em at least 3/4 inch apart (which is about what my fingers can tolerate without knocking them over). Just use the VHT spray can as designed and spray a thin coat from about 4-6 different angles. The height of the box allows me to get the can down low so I am getting the sides of the boolits. Pay attention to the ones in the middle as they get "shadowed" by the others.

    Go do something else for half an hour or so.

    Come back, spray another coat on. No need to bake between coats (a big time saver)!

    Preheat oven and go do something else for a while.

    Come back, transfer dried, painted boolits (no need for tweezers or gloves now) onto a baking tray and put in oven at 300 degrees.

    Go do something else.

    Come back, turn off oven. And, you guessed it, go do something else.

    After they're cool give one a smash test (haven't had one fail yet). Size the rest.

    Some nice things I've found by doing it this way:
    1)Only need to individually handle boolits twice before loading. Once to set them on cardboard box, and once to size them. The less individual handling of boolits the faster things go. Although you probably should do it at least once since it gives you a chance to inspect them.
    2)Only need special handling between casting and the first coat of epoxy and that is only to wear nitrile gloves - no tweezers! Just take care not to get oils from handling on the bare lead. After paint has dried fondle them all you want.
    3)Time from cast to reloading may be longer than lubrisizing, but the actual time spent getting things done is quite minimal. It takes maybe 10-15 minutes to stand 50 to 100 boolits up on box. About 30 seconds to spray a coat of epoxy on 'em. About 30 more seconds to come back and do a second coat oh wait, 31 seconds because you turn on the toaster oven. Takes 2 minutes to come back and transfer them into the oven, probably would take less time but I can't help but admire them for a bit.
    4) No special equipment, no special weather conditions (except warm enough for paint to dry).
    5) No onerous time commitment. You can paint boolits, then if something else comes up, you can come back next week and pick up where you left off.

    The main drawback could be cost. Like I said, at between $1 to $2 per 100 boolits that can add up. When I do traditional lubing I usually don't even figure in the cost of a boolit since the scrap lead is so cheap it would come out to a fraction of a cent per box. However, at $1 to $2 per box of 100 boolits I will not likely go back to traditional lubing - it is worth the cost to me.

    Now, I may experiment with BBDT powder coating. I don't like the idea of handling them so delicately between coating and baking.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check