Super Blackhawk tight chamber

[Lead melter]

I bought a Ruger Super Blackhawk from a buddy at a fair price. Problem is it has one chamber that is super hard to get a fired case out of. I usually tap the case out with a wooden dowel rod. The next round goes in fine, but sticks when fired. I know the brass expands upon firing, but then it also shrinks to allow removal. This chamber shoots fine, so I have to think there must be a burr or other imperfection in the chamber. The case length is not critcal to this problem...long, short or proper all stick. Ruger says to send it back for repair, but I'd like to try a home remedy first to save the expense. What kind of black magic can you boys dream up?

[Ben]

If the pistol has had many .44 Specials fired in it, there is a " crud ring " in the chamber. This will definitely interfere with cases being ejected from the cylinders smoothly.

Soak that cylinder over light with Hoppe's and put a Phos/Bronze .45 cal pistol bore brush in that cylinder the next day. You may have to spin it at slow speed with a hand drill. When the cylinder is " squeaky clean", that should solve your problem.

Ben

[redneckdan]

I'm with Ben on this one. If you know any gunsmiths, one might have a cylinder fouling reamer, its designed to ream out the crap without touching the cylinder walls.

[454PB]

You would think that if it was a crud ring, it would happen with all chambers. If you're not into "home smithing", perhaps Ruger will let you just send the cylinder in for appraisal. Shipping the entire gun can get pricey!

[Lead melter]

I do not believe the problem to be a crud ring, and here is why. The gent who was the original owner never fired 44 Specials in the gun, nor have I. The problem seems to have come about after firing loads with Unique powder. 10 grains over a 250 grain Keith style cast boolit is certainly not high pressure. I did try JB's paste on a swab and the issue seemed to ease up for a while, but then came back after a few rounds.
The brass coming out of the chamber appears to be polished after removal, but the "polishing" is all around the case, not in just one place. I'll try the overnight Hoppes remedy and also try some Sweets in the chamber.
Keep throwing out ideas. I'll throw a dead cat over my head at midnight in a cemetery while standing in a thunderstorm if it works.

[Scrounger]

Don't leave Sweets in/on your guns for more than a few minnutes, the ammonia in it will do bad things to steel.

[rvpilot76]

I don't suppose Ruger would fix undersize throats, would they?

Kevin

[Ricochet]

A chamber that's slightly bulged will cause fired cases to stick.

[EMC45]

No-no on the overnight Sweet's application. It will do bad things to steel. Hoppes is good and Kroil is some dandy stuff too. I think if you lightly "polish", and I mean lightly, the offending chamber with an old 44 cal bronze bore brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool that has been saturated with Kroil or Hoppes then go back over it with the same set-up coated with Flitz metal polish with a variable speed drill run slow it should do the trick. I had a similar problem with a Mod. 66 Smith from firing 38s and I did the steel wool trick with Hoppes and turned it by hand. Problem solved.

[danski26]

Might i suggest a cerrosafe cast of the chamber to see what it's dimensions are? Find the problem first then fix it.

[Lead melter]

Yeah, I guess I was vague about the Sweets issue. Just a few minutes with that stuff is plenty! Will try the Kroil/drill method and danski is correct...find what the problem is. It's just ignorance on my part. I've never used cerrosafe nor any other similar product and don't know anyone who has. Now for the good part....someone is bound to have some pointers on how, when, etc.
Muchas Gracias

[MtGun44]

That's probably the cylinder where he fired that load which had
22 grains of Bullseye instead of 2400.

That is about the only way I could imagine a bulge to get into a
Ruger Blackhawk cylinder. Could have a factory reaming defect,
tho.

I'd send the cyl only to Ruger for evaluation, as mentioned, far
cheaper than sending in the whole gun.

Good luck.

Bill

[68 couper]

Here's a couple things. First, take a cotton ball and run it down the bad one. See if there is a burr. Once, I had a prob with a 280 of mine as a little oil had been in the gun chamber. It got sticky and did not want to let the case go. Have a good measure on the chamber in Q done. I rather doubt a ruger got hurt from a hot load.
My gun shop experience with Ruger CS has been pretty good. While they have no expressed warranty. I have found they have a lifetime unexpressed warranty. Make sure you pull out any trigger goodies though. They don't like that at the factory. They once pulled out a Timney on a 416 with a bad bbl and replaced it with another factory trigger. It was a good trigger job though. The gun shot 1" when done. No charge.

Couper

[nicholst55]

I have to disagree with the wisdom of just sending the cylinder in for evaluation, assuming that Ruger would even buy off on that. First, I would want them to inspect the entire revolver, rather than just the cylinder. Is the frame twisted or distorted? Is there a constriction in the barrel where it screws into the frame? Is anything else out of whack?

Second, assuming that they do decide to replace the cylinder (more likely than them repairing the cylinder, IMHO), they're going to insist on having the entire revolver present for fitting. You'll just have to send it in anyway, and pay shipping twice - once for the cylinder and once for the rest of the gun.

[MtGun44]

The 'send the whole gun' does make sense if you were just using
normal shipping rules. Given that UPS forces you to use their most
expensive service (due their employees stealing guns during shipping
and needing to closely track them internally) you will spend a whole
lot more to ship the gun than the cylinder, which can be shipped by
ordinary means.

Now - you do make a good point that if they want to replace it, they'll
want the whole gun. But if they send it back as "OK, checked out
to specs", then you have saved maybe $40-50 bucks.

Bill

[Mayor]

Try the "cerrosafe" it is available online from Brownells. It's easy as pie to use and cheaper than shipping the firearm to Ruger. As Danski said....identify the problem. If all else fails let me know. I have parts!