Automated Master Caster

[hagel]

Quick update: MC#1 is sitting in my garage! Still working on getting AEP to give me enough power to fire it up. Automating the Star is now high on the priority list along with a little project Hatch suggested.

Question: How many of you would like to have an automated lead pour kit to add to your manually operated MC? It would pour lead for a set time that you controlled each time you return the handle to the top of the stroke.

[Tazza]

Personally I'd think that if you were to go that far, you may as well add the other cylinder to fully automate it.

Hopefully you will get your power sorted out soon and have it up and running making some money.

[hagel]

That's kind of what I thought to. However, I'm just stepping up from hand molds and someone who knows a LOT more about the master casters than I do told me that it would be a good idea. Who am I to argue?

Should get the inspection paper this weekend for the power drop. That will be one step closer.

How's your MC project going? Kind of looking forward to talking to you about using the arduino. I know that was a new thing for you too. Hoping you can explain it to me in a way that I can more easily understand.

Personally I'd think that if you were to go that far, you may as well add the other cylinder to fully automate it.

Hopefully you will get your power sorted out soon and have it up and running making some money.

[Tazza]

It would be handy, don't get me wrong. A position switch at the top to tell it to pour is a nice addition. All you need to do is pull the handle, I did find my thumb did get a little sore in manual mode.

Mine is still going. I made a bench on Monday, still building a chute to divert completed projectiles to a suitable bin and sprues just drop to another bin for re melting. I hope to complete this tomorrow or the weekend. I am waiting on another pid for the pot, the one I built is handy for using as a mobile control. The new one will mount in the control box. I need to machine a slot for the display and mount it in the box. I also need to finish the cooling fan too. Mine didn't come with one, I have made a box that has two fans and a hole In the middle, I need to weld diverting fins to it so it blows on the correct parts.

It looks much nicer with fresh paint, ill need to upload more pictures to photobucket.

[Tazza]

I'm currently uploading files to photo bucket, the link is:

http://s903.photobucket.com/user/taz...tml?sort=3&o=1

Hopefully that will work. It's not super fast, but getting there. Shuffling around two pictures of the bench that are still on my phone, will take me a little longer to get them there. My home ADSL isn't the fastest, especially doing it all remotely, but it will get there. When done, there should be around 50 pictures.

There is no real order to it, just pictures of various stages, things have changed along the way and pieces that were made along the way. You will really notice that on the gas strut that moved three times before it was rite.

[kayak1]

I'm currently uploading files to photo bucket, the link is:

http://s903.photobucket.com/user/taz...tml?sort=3&o=1

Hopefully that will work. It's not super fast, but getting there. Shuffling around two pictures of the bench that are still on my phone, will take me a little longer to get them there. My home ADSL isn't the fastest, especially doing it all remotely, but it will get there. When done, there should be around 50 pictures.

There is no real order to it, just pictures of various stages, things have changed along the way and pieces that were made along the way. You will really notice that on the gas strut that moved three times before it was rite.

The pictures look great. How did you cut the key-way in the handle adapter, that's really impressive. I plugged my pot into the pid but left the dial thermostat on the pot in case my SSR was to fail the temp will be limited by the original thermostat.

Your return strut is inventive, I like the location as it keeps the strut away from the lead splatter/over pour.

[Tazza]

The key way was cut in my lathe. I bored the hole with a boring bar, then i made a tool holder and ground a piece of HSS, you then lock the chuck up and manually push the tool in to the hole with the handle on the saddle, it will slowly cut the groove. Keep the tool sharp and take a few thou each pass, just don't try and cut too much. I broaching tool would have made it easier, but it's what i had. I have actually cut much larger one this way before, it is less than fun, hundreds of slow passes to cut it, but i got there in the end.

I actually didn't think about the lead splatter, it was put there as i figured it would do what i needed and easy to mount I mounted it so that when the mold gets to just above where it opens, the gas strut actually pushes with the ram and not against it. I didn't like the idea of the spring only because it means i need more force from the ram to overcome it.

The only thing i haven't got pictures of is the linkage from the solenoid to the pour arm, it's not just a piece of brazing rod any more.

I like your idea about the thermostat, never hurts to have a fail safe. My thermostat died a few years back, that is the only reason i went for a PID. I'm using a 240v relay, not a SSR, hopefully it will never stick on *crosses fingers*

[hagel]

Update: Got my inspection form signed this weekend. I fax it to AEP today and hope they can get to me soon. I have the sub panel hung on the first floor. Next I hang the sub panel on the second floor and start running wires.

[Tazza]

Hopefully you will soon be spitting out heaps of projectiles. Im still wating on my new pid so I can finish my control box. The bench is done, chutes are made to drop projectiles in one drawer and sprues in the other. Took some work but got there in the end.

[hagel]

Got any pictures of that bench? MC#1 is mounted on an equipment stand. It's sort of a stand alone unit and will probably stay that way for a while as I will fire it up ASAP and start cranking. That leaves MC#2 and #3 that still need a place to park. I've been so busy lately trying to get the building ready that I haven't had time to think anything about a bench for them other than I'll need to build one.

Hopefully you will soon be spitting out heaps of projectiles. Im still wating on my new pid so I can finish my control box. The bench is done, chutes are made to drop projectiles in one drawer and sprues in the other. Took some work but got there in the end.

[Tazza]

Sorry, no pictures of the finished bench yet. I'll get some pictures soon though, i need to mount the control box too, but i'm still need the PID. As i am going to cut the hole out for it on the mill, i can't even assemble the rest and wait for the pid to turn up. Isn't it fun when one thing holds up the entire build?

The stand sounds like a good plan, the only reason i made a bench was so i could add wheels and move it in and out of the house to use it.

[Brenden]

Question: How many of you would like to have an automated lead pour kit to add to your manually operated MC? It would pour lead for a set time that you controlled each time you return the handle to the top of the stroke.

I might be interested, depending on price point.

[Tazza]

Hagel - there ya go, your first potential customer

Brenden - if you go that far, you may later want to fully automate it depending on what is used for the lead pour timer. If micro controller based, you can change the software later if you wanted to.

[hagel]

Brenden, no idea on the price yet. It will be a while before I get one ready. I have a lot more to do to the building before I can work on it but I may as well set up MC#2 that way initially. That would give me a chance to check it out and give me some experience in using an MC in the manual(semi-manual?) mode. That wouldn't be a bad idea. I'll let you know what it cost when I have mine done.

On another front the GOV is auctioning off some lead in the Pacific North West.

"Description:
52,840 lbs. approx. Lead ballast scrap, to include but not limited to bagged brick/sheet and chips and shavings. Lead is located at Ft. Lewis, WA. Approximate dimensions 14 inches long x 3.125 inches wide, 50-60 pounds each, most bricks are not full size. Including but not limited to sheets, chips, shavings, and smaller pieces of various sizes and shapes. Lead will be packed into 3 flexible intermediate bulk containers (FIBC) placed on wooden pallets and 24 pallets of bagged lead on wood pallets which are included in the total weight of sale. FIBC containers are polypropylene bags rated at 6,000 lbs. capacity, could also include Lead brick, lead shot or poured lead. Lead is to be transported, handled and disposed of in accordance with all local, state, and federal regulations. GL will load flatbed truck and trailer only. Contractor will provide transportation within 48 hours of notification. POC for sale is John Miller. (253)966-1430. Mutilation not required. "

[kayak1]

Brenden, no idea on the price yet. It will be a while before I get one ready. I have a lot more to do to the building before I can work on it but I may as well set up MC#2 that way initially. That would give me a chance to check it out and give me some experience in using an MC in the manual(semi-manual?) mode. That wouldn't be a bad idea. I'll let you know what it cost when I have mine done.

On another front the GOV is auctioning off some lead in the Pacific North West.

"Description:
52,840 lbs. approx. Lead ballast scrap, to include but not limited to bagged brick/sheet and chips and shavings. Lead is located at Ft. Lewis, WA. Approximate dimensions 14 inches long x 3.125 inches wide, 50-60 pounds each, most bricks are not full size. Including but not limited to sheets, chips, shavings, and smaller pieces of various sizes and shapes. Lead will be packed into 3 flexible intermediate bulk containers (FIBC) placed on wooden pallets and 24 pallets of bagged lead on wood pallets which are included in the total weight of sale. FIBC containers are polypropylene bags rated at 6,000 lbs. capacity, could also include Lead brick, lead shot or poured lead. Lead is to be transported, handled and disposed of in accordance with all local, state, and federal regulations. GL will load flatbed truck and trailer only. Contractor will provide transportation within 48 hours of notification. POC for sale is John Miller. (253)966-1430. Mutilation not required. "

Group buy? I could go for 1-2k pounds at $0.50 per pound to my door.

[hagel]

At that price I could go for 2 tons. Problem is that it won't go for anywhere near that price. It will definitely go for more. Also there would be shipping. LTL from the Pacific North West to your door would be pretty pricey. Still it's nice to fantasize.

Seriously, it really is too bad we can't get something together and pull off one of these Gov lead deals. It would take some serious logistics but in the end there would be something sweet about casting bullets from Government lead.

Any of you boys live near Ft. Lewis?

Group buy? I could go for 1-2k pounds at $0.50 per pound to my door.

[Tazza]

I bet it gets pertty high. Over here the scrappies go after anything non ferrous. As they have buyers that can pay more, they generally push us out.

[hagel]

Same deal here. Most GOV surplus goes for such high prices that it's hard to understand how anyone makes money from it. I don't know why I even follow the stuff. Hopeless romantic I guess. Like Kayak, I'd love to get a bunch of it to my door for $.50/lb.

Update: Just picked up the wire to run from the meter box to the sub panels. With luck, I may have enough juice to melt lead actually in my shop within a week to ten days.

Also got the machine tables for my mill/drill and lathe today. Question - Is it worth the extra $300 to upgrade from the Grizzly G4000 lathe to the Grizzly G0602? I am not a machinist by any stretch of the imagination so I sure would appreciate some input from those of you who are.

I bet it gets pertty high. Over here the scrappies go after anything non ferrous. As they have buyers that can pay more, they generally push us out.

[Tazza]

I guess it depends on what you plan on doing. Personally i'd like to go a bit bigger and like a tail stock that uses a cam lock instead of needing a spanner to lock it up. You will always have times you need a larger machine, so the bigger the better.

Good to hear you should have lots of power to your shop soon and start melting lead

[Tazza]

Didn't get much done on Saturday, oh well. Got the air solenoid mounted and connected to the air cylinder. The weird thing is, i had it running and at 25 PSI it was moving the mold pretty quickly as is shown in the video i took. I disassembled it to pretty up with a coat of paint and weld up holes for the gas strut that were not in the rite places. After hooking it up to air after the re-spray, it now needs twice the amount of air pressure to move, all pivot points are free, the ram has not been moved, it is very strange. Not exactly sure what is going on here. The pivot points have not changed, i skimmed a little off the ram carrier to give it a little more clearance so it wouldn't bind. The cylinder has a bore of about 1.5-2", it really shouldn't need 50 PSI to operate when other have been using a smaller diameter cylinder without any issues.

There has been much head scratching going on. The other part that is slowing things down is finding screws to assemble the control box, i have a good supply of screws and nuts, naturally not sorted out at all. It tends to take a little time to find a suitable screw then even longer for a nut that fits it! I swear if i was charging myself by the hour for this build, i may as well have bought a bullet manufacturing plant!