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Thread: Powder Coating 101 - Electrostatic Method

  1. #801
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Turn the air flow valve on the handle down a bit so powder just puffs out.
    Whatever!

  2. #802
    Boolit Master


    Taylor's Avatar
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    I changed the valve to a gauge, not sure it was worth the trouble...it's a cheap one.
    Pro Patria-Ne Desit Virtus

  3. #803
    Boolit Mold lokepup's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    Turn the air flow valve on the handle down a bit so powder just puffs out.
    I had to learn that as well, following the instructions would work well for a car wheel, but our target is much smaller.
    " I used to think the scary part about getting older was dying. And it turns out that the scary part of getting older is young people. It's like we're the Indians and they're the white settlers. And they keep coming and they take all our resources, and all we're left with is diseased blankets."

    -Pamela Adlon

  4. #804
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have a question. Why NOT use electrostatic??

    We hobbiests have no qualms about spending money on tools in our quest to "SAVE" money and have fun; believe me, I know! So I really don't see "cost of equipment" as an answer to this question.

    And I don't think there can be much doubt that ESPC will give more consistent results, and also that it is the way it is engineered to be applied. Consistency is paramount in all aspects of reloading.

    So why DO the majority of people by far, "Shake and Bake"??

    Thanks,
    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  5. #805
    Boolit Bub donald150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettepilot View Post

    So why DO the majority of people by far, "Shake and Bake"??

    Thanks,
    Vettepilot
    I have the harbor freight sprayer. It takes longer to set up the bullets to spray. There is always some side not coated. Overspray goes all over the place.


    I use a vibratory case cleaner to coat mine. Itís easier, coats all sides and quicker.

  6. #806
    Boolit Grand Master

    Beagle333's Avatar
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    I use electrostatic. It makes perfect boolits every time. With the amount of boolits that one can coat with a pound of powder, even if you were to "waste" half of it by spraying it on the tray, the cost per boolit goes from way below negligible to um...... still negligible. But to each his own..... if they like shaking..... by all means, shake!
    KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  7. #807
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I did ESPC, now just shake & bake. I get same results on target from both. S&B is just less trouble. Near MOA @ 200 with 308 & same with BO PB, both fast loads.
    Whatever!

  8. #808
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    I did ESPC, now just shake & bake. I get same results on target from both. S&B is just less trouble. Near MOA @ 200 with 308 & same with BO PB, both fast loads.
    How fast ya pushin' those? Sooner or later I'll be trying all this with 30.06, so any loading info at all is welcome.

    Thanks,
    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  9. #809
    I have been doing this method but I place the naked bullets in the oven at 350 degrees for five minutes.
    Take them out,spray them and back into the oven.
    Results are perfect.
    Great thread guys!

  10. #810
    Boolit Mold
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    I've asked myself the same question. I only use electrostatic. If I'm going to go through the effort to coat my bullets, I want them to look the best they can. Let's face it, the only reason to "paint" these is for the look. Otherwise its just as easy to lube them in a lubrisizer IMO. I never tumble lubed my projectiles because of the looks and I don't see myself Shake-N-Bakin' for the same reason. I will say I've seen some really nice looking work by some with that method, but for me spraying puts down a nice even coat that bakes on and covers really nice. Even with bright colors like yellow. I don't see the cost as a factor. The powder runs $25+ per pound. A gun runs under $100 if you time it right a HF. Liquid Alox TL is $5 and uses the same tubs as the Shake-N-Bakers. So if cost is the factor liquid Alox would be the cheapest route to go. So honestly we are really back to the looks factor for doing this. So a little additional setup time is worth the increase in the final results I can produce.

  11. #811
    How do you coat the bottoms or prevent "flashing" when you ESPC?

  12. #812
    On pistol bullets I dont worry about the bottoms,I get great accuracy so its no big deal.
    What do you me flashing?

  13. #813
    Boolit Buddy
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    The reports indicate that if the powder coat is cured properly, that the gun powder won't attack the coating. However, if the boolit bases are not coated, the gun powder CAN'T attack it. That's a plus in my mind...

    (I don't worry about degradation of the PC on the base of the boolits; I worry about the concomitant degradation of the gun powder, of which there HAVE been reports.)

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  14. #814
    Quote Originally Posted by Onebad06vtx View Post
    On pistol bullets I dont worry about the bottoms,I get great accuracy so its no big deal.
    What do you me flashing?
    Flashing = PC that lays on the foil and sticks to the boolit base. I haven't ESPC yet and was curious.

    degradation of the PC won't occur IF you bake the PC to manufacturers specifications. Bake XX min at XXX degrees AFTER a certain condition is met either the PC starts to flow / or / the boolit reaches XXX degrees depending on the manufacturer.

  15. #815
    Boolit Buddy
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    Have you taken properly cured bullets, and buried them in high nitro gun powder for a year to test them and the powder?

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  16. #816
    It's on my list of projects to do.

  17. #817
    Boolit Buddy
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    Many of us stand each bullet on a nut, or a bolt head (I do this) and then usually there is no flashing and a bit of powder even sticks to the bottom edges of the bullet. I have a pic of my tray, I’ll see if I can find it... -Brad

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...72#post2613272
    Last edited by birdadly; 05-21-2019 at 05:55 PM.

  18. #818
    I am looking for some kind of tacky substance that's heat resistant and conducts electricity to temporarily stick the boolit to a 1/8 in pin for the spray and bake cycle the wipe off maybe with acetone or?

    Does anyone know of such a substance? Please PM me if you do.

  19. #819
    Ok after hearing all the rave about shake and bake,I did 500 bullets this way.
    I used a cool whip container,black airsoft bb's and heated the bullets in a 400 degree oven for one minute.
    It worked but not as well as ESPC.
    They will work.
    BUT it isnt faster,maybe a little cleaner.
    Small batches would be ok this way,but with ESPC method I can coat and bake 400 to 500 bullets in alot less time and better results!
    I am using a regular kitchen oven out in my shop.
    If all you have is a toaster over,then I could see doing the shake and bake method.
    YMMV!!!!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check