What do you do when you run out of elevation on your scope?
Also, has anyone ever run out of windage adjustment?
Any help is appreciated.
Slim
What do you do when you run out of elevation on your scope?
Also, has anyone ever run out of windage adjustment?
Any help is appreciated.
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
You may need to get a scope rail (20 MOA is usually perfect) or put some shims under the mount to raise the scope.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
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Love Life,
I did shim up the front ring using a piece of business card. That got me a little more elevation, however, just shimming up one ring seems (to me) that the scope tube could be in a bind if much more is added.
I'm just wanting to get others input as to how they did it.
I have a M/N and a Tikka .308 that I want to reach out with using cast boolits and thus the question.
Thanks,
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
HangFireW8,
Do you recommend adding same amount of shim stock under each end?
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
As said above ensure you shim both mounts. I would get a 20 MOA rail and call it a day. They make them so the screw into your scope holes, but you may need to get a different set of rings depending on which rail you go with. Or, if you have a mil dot scope, zero at your preferred range using the 2 highest dot.
First, if the scope has run out of elevation something may be wrong with the match between the receiver and bases/rings. How far are you wanting to shoot? Also, shimming the front base yields less elevation. For more elevation you need to shim the rear base. And, you're right- too much shim (front or rear) can put a bind in the scope. Things I can think of to check: make sure the bases/rings are correct for the model/action/receiver and make sure the scope is not on the fritz. I think Burris makes rings that have elliptical inserts that can adjust for a certain amount of run-out if needed. If you do shim, you can reduce the amount of off-axis "bind" to the scope tube by lapping the rings with a scope lapping rod once the bases/rings are mounted to the receiver.
The only time I've ever had windage problems on a rifle was when the base mounting holes were drilled off-axis to the bore line or receiver center line. The old Leupold/Redfield one piece base system addressed that.
And yes, the suggestion about using a rail is a good one. You can use a stiff rail instead of two piece base- then shim the rear of the rail and still avoid most if not all the off-axis bind.
Last edited by fouronesix; 07-28-2013 at 12:28 PM.
Thanks guys, I think I'll look for the 20 MOA rail for the Tikka and go with it.
The M/N may be a different issue since the dovetail above the receiver is 3/8". Any suggestions?
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
I used 20 moa rails on my long range rifles as it kept the scope much closer to zero and a clearer view. If using 2 piece blocks make sure front is in front and back is in back as some rifles used diffrent block hieghts front and back. Also make sure both rings are seating and sitting down all the way on the blocks. I always had plenty of elevation at 600 yds (J words though 223 243 and 308) it wasnt till 1000 this became an issue. Lapping te rings is a good way to keep the scope stress free. Error" x sight radious" ( distance between rings here) divided by range in inches will give you an idea how much you need.
Oh an after thought to consider is with a full 20 moa rail the rifles may not zero at 200 yds.
Slim you can shim the rear base only, then lap the rings. I think Burris makes rings with offset inserts for elevation or windage. Take the paper shim out from under the front base you put there, that just worked the opposite of what you wanted.
Charter Member #148
I like the Burris Signature Zee Rings. One can gain a lot of extra elevation or windage using them with the posi-align offset inserts. If you are shooting 1000 + yds, you will need the special tapered bases too.
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Gotta have enough up!!
On the cast boolits board it might well be that the bases are screwed to the same tapered section of barrel, preferably round, rather than to differently shaped sections of a bolt action etc. In this case you could glue or double sided tape a piece of silicon carbide paper to the barrel where it tapers a little smaller, then use it to abrade the front base a little thinner. Continue till youu have bright metal over the complete bottom surfaces of both bases, but most of the metal removal is from the front one. This method makes a small adjustment very neatly but pretty laboriously. For this you should keep the rings screwed onto the scope as a guide, or onto a piece of one inch steel rod if you are worried about bending the tube, although little force will ever be applied in this method).
Alternatively you could grease or wax the barrel or action, and very gently screw home the bases on a mixture of epoxy and a little lamp black (or Brownells black pigment). If you are worried about its strength or rigidity, include a little iron filings, steel wool or chopped glass fibre. Under the rear base put a small piece of card or metal as well, and under the front one only a very thin layer of the goo. Then trim off the surplus and tighten up the screws when it is hard. You will then have both bases firmly bedded on something which won't crumble, and are at the same angle without straining the tube.
There are several airgun rails made that will fit the M/N dovetail that are designed to raise the elevation of the scope. This is one:
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/UTG_Dr...ope_Shift/4191
A+ on the Burris signurture Z rings with avalible offset inserts , i had to use these on 2 of my rifles because i also ran out of elevation adj
You can try reversing the rings. Switch the front to the rear and the rear to the front.
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Rule: always keep the cross hair center physically in the center of the optical scope when mounting by bore sighting, adjusting MOUNTS. To assure the scope centers, put the scope out of focus as much as possible and move the cross hairs to where they don't move against the background while moving your eye position all over the place. The scope is placed on a box (indoors where it is cool) with v-notches cut into the box to hold the scope pointing out towards good light. Now mount the scope, adjusting mounts to satisfy the most useful shooting range. ... felix
felix
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