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Thread: MyCheckmaker

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    Maybe I'm doing the hardening wrong. When I have tried to harden either the punch or the die ,I got a lot of warping. the punch went out of round and the die( the bigger piece with the slot) warped down and mostly closed the slot .They were hard but useless. Now I try to use annealed bolts to make this stuff. Sometimes a useless rifle barrel is used. They are hard but, workable . One of my plain base dies ( a 9mm size) has made over 20,000 gas checks and no noticeable deterioration has happened.
    n.h.schmidt

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Forrest r's Avatar
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    I don't know how your heating the metal or what your using to quench it. Here's a thread that another forum member documented how he heat treats the metal parts he makes.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...SW-10mm-JWords

    It starts on page 3, post 44 & goes to post 67 where he documents how he does his pieces & parts.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    Heat treating is a black art. Phoenix or Los Angeles (capitol of heat treating) have shops that specialize in just that. -tj

  4. #24
    Boolit Master wistlepig1's Avatar
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    I have not heat treated any of the three I made (yet) and I didn't think about the warping thing. I have made about 500 each with each one and they still cut pretty good, so I wonder if it's going to be needed??
    This winter when I get cabin fever I will redo the first 2 (30 and 35 cal.) and change the base to the "birds mouth" design of the 22 cal. Better design and works like a champ. I don't have a mold for a 243 but if I get a bullit for 243, I think I will see if I can make one for it and then buy a mold. That is a late winter project. Martin

    “A liberal’s paradise would be a place where everybody has guaranteed employment, free comprehensive healthcare, free education, free food, free housing, free clothing, free utilities, and only law enforcement has guns. And believe it or not, such a place does indeed already exist: It's called Prison."

    --- Sheriff Joe Arpaio, Maricopa County, Arizona

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Apr 2009
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    Houston TX
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    Check Makers heat Treating

    The check makers I make are used to make checks for plan base pistol bullets.

    The check maker is single stroke, it makes a check with each stroke on the maker.

    The center cutter for cutting the circular disc is heat treated, the green part.

    The material is water Harding tool steel I purchase at the machine tool shop here in Houston.

    These check makers have made thousands of checks from cola cans and have never got dull.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Forrest r's Avatar
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    That's all I heat treat also with my 1 pull of the handle/1 check gc makers (the green colored tube).

    Heat treating is not that hard, even heat & a good brine or oil will cut down on the warping. I also like to use annealed hardened steel then just re-heat treat it.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Sep 2010
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    Australia
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    I was once told that even heat is easier if you spin part to be heated in drill press then lover it into the oil, sounds good but I worry about my actions when oil catches fire, been a long time since I dirtied myself.

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub
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    Oct 2012
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    Where are you sourcing your springs from?

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub
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    Oct 2012
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    BTW, the correct way to quench a part like the punch, is straight in, small end first. In other words, plunge it vertically.

    If you quench it sideways, the part that touches the oil first will cool more rapidly, shrinking as it cools, pulling the uncooled part towards itself, resulting in a warped part.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Apr 2009
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    I get the springs at a hardware store the springs are too long and I cut off withe a grinding wheel type cutter.

    Century Springs sells on the net, I first purchased some from Century Springs but found some later at a local hardware store for about the same price, Century Springs has a minimum order dollar value and I would need to purchase over ten springs to make the minimum order.

    The part number I have used from Century Spring was # 27 if I remember right.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master wistlepig1's Avatar
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    Ace Hardware is where I get my springs and I do have to cut them to fit.

    “A liberal’s paradise would be a place where everybody has guaranteed employment, free comprehensive healthcare, free education, free food, free housing, free clothing, free utilities, and only law enforcement has guns. And believe it or not, such a place does indeed already exist: It's called Prison."

    --- Sheriff Joe Arpaio, Maricopa County, Arizona

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy MaxJon's Avatar
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    I like this design better than the others, as the punch is not entering, and exiting the die body. Less chance of wear, with slight misalignment.
    THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!

  13. #33
    Boolit Mold
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    Sep 2020
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    https://leeprecision.com/recondition...ger-press.html
    This is considered to be one of the toughest presses made by Lee Precision. If you check the clearance links you may find one of these at a decent price. If you are using one of the cast aluminum 'C' style presses such as I use, you find the frame hole where the ram passes through wears out quickly. If you dismantle the ram from press you can access this hole with a slit dowel rod and sand paper. Once squared back up you can prep a brass tube to fit back in the hole, 0.001 larger than the frame hole. Using a sealed container you can then use dry ice, or one of the coolant sprays used to cool off electrical components. Dowse the brass part liberally, goal is to shrink it 0.001-0.002 in size. Use a heat gun to heat up frame use caution here as aluminum heats and cools fast, not sure if you would need to heat or cool here now that I reflect on on past processes (used to install turbine assy on main shaft). In doing this the purpose is to have the aluminum hole diameter increase while decreasing the brass sleeve. Locking the two parts in a battle of wills if it were trying to get back to original size.

  14. #34
    Boolit Mold Shamus's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    A2 tool steel works best for punch dies, holds dimensions much better. You can use O1 tool steel and do a fast oil quench, just takes more work and more finesse. You can do the A2 hardening at home with foil bags. The soak time matters, the temp stability matters etc. You need a good metal furnace with an accurate controller. But A2 steel is easier, less clean up, very good durability. It takes practice to harden tools with good results. You really need a quality furnace that will hold temps with good temperature stability. Two are best, one for the hot initial hardening run and one for the tempering soak. But you can get away with just one too, just gotta let it cool down for the second stage.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check