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Thread: Powder Coat Piglet style VS Klass Kote

  1. #81
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by why.kyle View Post
    How important do you all feel the HBN is to the KK coating? Im confused on what its suppose to do if its mixed in the the epoxy.
    Doesn't do anything according to my chrono

    Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2
    Last edited by Skip62; 08-10-2013 at 05:33 PM.

  2. #82
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Ok, I have been doing the powder coat, cuz I thought it was easier. I don't have any idea what the difference is, except the temp outside, but I decided to give it another try, and I was able to coat 500 boolits in about 15 minutes and they won't need a second coat and they look GREAT! ! ! I always thought they shot cleaner than the powder coat. Guess I'm switching back.

    How many coats are you guys applying?

  3. #83
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    As recommended above, this video is really good
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiFxAPtx4c0
    I'm going with two coats of Klass Kote 1:1:1 just like the video

  4. #84
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    With the HF I'm only doing one coat but the PBTP I'm doing two and sometimes three. With the KK I'm doing two coats.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortimer View Post
    As recommended above, this video is really good
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiFxAPtx4c0
    I'm going with two coats of Klass Kote 1:1:1 just like the video
    Video states 2 paint, 1 hardner, 2.5 cc hbn. not 1:1:1. Thinner if needed depending on area but not a must.

  6. #86
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortimer View Post
    As recommended above, this video is really good
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiFxAPtx4c0
    I'm going with two coats of Klass Kote 1:1:1 just like the video
    Yeah, I saw that video the day he posted it and 2 days later was doing it. I tried the powder coat just to see if it might be easier, and at the time, I thought it was easier. I only tried it again today because I was having oven issues, and couldn't get the powder coat to cure 100%. Glad I did though. I found my mistake that coated them in 1 coat, I measured incorrectly. Worked though. I'm happy, happy, happy.

  7. #87
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maximumbob54 View Post
    With the HF I'm only doing one coat but the PBTP I'm doing two and sometimes three. With the KK I'm doing two coats.
    Ok, that was always my past experience. Just not today.

  8. #88
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evil5826 View Post
    Video states 2 paint, 1 hardner, 2.5 cc hbn. not 1:1:1. Thinner if needed depending on area but not a must.
    Video isn't using Klass Kote. And there isn't any reason to bother with hBN, in my opinion.

  9. #89
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    Video 1 catalyst 1 thinner 1 "Paint." As to the HBN I don't disagree. Yes he has Euro epoxy paint and we have Klass Kote or whatever. Otherwise, what he is doing makes sense.

  10. #90
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    I am doing two coats with the KK 2 parts paint, 1 part hardner and no HBN. I have had nothing but good results with this in all of my 9mm's and .45 acp barrels except for my Rock Island Armory factory barrel and that was due to barrel with lots of machining marks left in it.
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  11. #91
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    Would powdered mica be a suitable replacement for the hbn? Mica is sold as a dry lubricant and is very very fine in size. I have a bunch of it because I dust my lubed bullets with it to keep them from sticking together in storage and the mica has never caused a malfunction in a firearm.

    Nighthunter

  12. #92
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    You can try it but I would do a very small batch first. I tried dusting with graphite and found that to be a mistake. And I agree with Skip62, I quit adding the hbn and nothing changed.

  13. #93
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nighthunter View Post
    Would powdered mica be a suitable replacement for the hbn? Mica is sold as a dry lubricant and is very very fine in size. I have a bunch of it because I dust my lubed bullets with it to keep them from sticking together in storage and the mica has never caused a malfunction in a firearm.

    Nighthunter
    I've read that it's the same thing. The place I got mine from had powder mica in parentheses behind hBN in the description.

    I have wondered if it was applied after the coating cured what the result would be. Long range rifle shooters use it on their I-word bullets for more consistent groups. I wonder if it would have the same effect on coated bullets.

    Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

  14. #94
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nighthunter View Post
    Would powdered mica be a suitable replacement for the hbn? Mica is sold as a dry lubricant and is very very fine in size. I have a bunch of it because I dust my lubed bullets with it to keep them from sticking together in storage and the mica has never caused a malfunction in a firearm.

    Nighthunter
    I've read that it's the same thing. The place I got mine from had powder mica in parentheses behind hBN in the description.

    I have wondered if it was applied after the coating cured what the result would be. Long range rifle shooters use it on their I-word bullets for more consistent groups. I wonder if it would have the same effect on coated bullets.

    Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

  15. #95
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Skip, now that you discovered your mistake with the Klass Kote, you seem happy with it. What is your preference order for coatings? (between KK, Piglet, and HT)

  16. #96
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Klass Kote...for now anyway....lol I don't have to bake it. The overall process is longer, but I'm not doing anything and I can do 800-1000 at time. I can speed it up with a heat gun if I need to. I think the barrel is cleaner with the Klass Kote, but that could be the tiny bit of carnauba I melt on. I need to shoot some PC with the carnauba to make sure, but I don't think I have any left, and I ain't make anymore any time soon, KK works fine for me. YMMV.

  17. #97
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip62 View Post
    Klass Kote...for now anyway....lol I don't have to bake it. The overall process is longer, but I'm not doing anything and I can do 800-1000 at time. I can speed it up with a heat gun if I need to. I think the barrel is cleaner with the Klass Kote, but that could be the tiny bit of carnauba I melt on. I need to shoot some PC with the carnauba to make sure, but I don't think I have any left, and I ain't make anymore any time soon, KK works fine for me. YMMV.
    I was hoping that was the answer! My oven just doesn't seem up to the task of giving consistent, adequate heat. So a no heating solution is great.

    What is your process? I believe the Youtube video shows the guy baking his, though I've heard that baking is not required - it just speeds up the curing process.

  18. #98
    Boolit Buddy fastglock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip62 View Post
    I've read that it's the same thing. The place I got mine from had powder mica in parentheses behind hBN in the description.

    I have wondered if it was applied after the coating cured what the result would be. Long range rifle shooters use it on their I-word bullets for more consistent groups. I wonder if it would have the same effect on coated bullets.
    I've done this both on PC sprayed and tumbled boolits. I find no benefits of any kind. It does make sizing harder to do (go figure). So I tried sizing first before the HBN, but it just makes loading at the press slippery. Looks like I got a pound to sell.

  19. #99
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    Was thinking of taking hardware cloth and making a squarebox or a hex tube and then connecting it to a rotissary spit with motor. With a fan on it, it will dry and agitate without them sticking. Just an idea, any one else come up with something except a vibration table.

  20. #100
    Boolit Buddy Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prickett View Post
    I was hoping that was the answer! My oven just doesn't seem up to the task of giving consistent, adequate heat. So a no heating solution is great.

    What is your process? I believe the Youtube video shows the guy baking his, though I've heard that baking is not required - it just speeds up the curing process.
    My oven wasn't up to the task either, it would swing from 325° to 475°, not good. That's why I went back to KK.

    Basically, 1 teaspoon of KK in the bottom of a 2 1/2 quart mixing tub, dump in 1050grains of bullets and shake and swirl till coated. I dump before they start getting sticky. Repeat 4-6 hours later, sometimes 24 hours, until I've got 3 coats on. I then pour 2 racks of bullets into a sauce pan and warm them up with the heat gun, then put a little carnauba wax on them and mix around. I think this step makes the barrel cleaner. If you look at the MSDS sheets for KK it says you can speed up the curing time by heating to 120°. I sometimes do this with a heat gun, takes about 5 minutes to heat 8-10 racks. Some swirl longer with good results, it's one of those things that you have to play with until you know what works for you. I'm going to try 1/2 teaspoon for the first coat next time, just curious.

    Good luck.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check