You can't declare a winner until you actually shoot the boolit!
Has anyone tried a clear powder paint? That would eliminate the need to have to get an even pigment coating if there was no pigment.
Do a hammer test to. I'm curious if it will flake or keep with the metal.
The good, the bad, and the ugly... Just not in that order...
The Colt barrel looked like a sewer pipe after shooting the lighter coating of the HF powder coat.
The M&P 54c got the heavier HF powder coat.
The M&P 40c got the PBTP with a thin coat.
The good is that everything seemed to perform. My poor shooting skills demand that at some point I buy a shooting rest for true accuracy testing so I didn't take pics of the targets. As usual I did my best with the Colt and the two M&P's were at best a fist size group. All testing was done at the seven yard range because I can't shoot the M&P's well enough for grouping at the twenty five yard range and the fifteen yard range is still closed for upgrades. Everything fed from the mags, the guns all ran fine, and there were no troubles.
I wanted to clean with the most generic cleaner possible and not use anything fancy or abnormal. My choice was Hoppes #9 as most people have it on their bench already or it's carried in just about every gun store I've ever seen and most sporting goods sections have it in stock. I swabbed the bores with a big of rag and allowed it to set for about half an hour. I made a sammich and ate it so I guess about half an hour of goofing off sammich making and eating.
From some reviews I've read about this I've heard of some that had bores that seemed cleaner than before. Mine looked terrible after shooting and I think I may need to bronze brush them to get them spotless again.
I am not declaring this a fail. The next batch of cast bullets will have more coatings applied but thinner each time. The HF is the hardest to work with but it does work. It's the hardest to apply in a thin layer only because the epoxy based powder is the hardest to break down in the thinner. It seems to want to clump and not apply even. The PBTP being polyester breaks down in the thinner with ease and applies very even. The .40SW bullets had two very thin coats and I really should have loaded some of the bullets that the second coat went on a bit thick and I wanted to know first if this was going to work at all. My only negative is that while leading didn't happen, the coating seemed to leave a residue behind. I don't think anyone else has mentioned this. The residue caused no loss of accuracy nor did it cause any failure to feed or other problems. If nothing else I feel like the PBTP powder is far and beyond the winner of the two. I have two more PBTP powders to try and may try them this weekend but I need to cast more boolits!!!
Thanks for the report !
How many rds fired from each gun?
What powder was used? ( Precision and BlackBulletInternational coatings tend to leave residue with fast powder such as N320. Less with W231 . And much less with N350. Seems that the slower the powder, the better, but hurt the recoil impulse)
After loading some more this morning I managed to have 50 each through each of them. All the .45 ACP loads were Unique and the .40 SW used Power Pistol.
Ok so the following is Klass Kote Method two layers 45acp 200 grain HP with Unique Powder being shot from a Sig Sauer Elite Dark P220:
6 Inch Target 30 feet. Upper left shot... I wouldn't worry about that little guy.
Standard Dirty Bird target 30 feet. 8 bullets all hit the target
After 75 Rounds
One Swipe with the Bore Snake (Cobra)
Due to the firing ranges around here I am unable to retrieve the bullet nor do they have any plink plates around. So what they look like after shooting I cannot tell you.
All I can say is I am amazed! No smoke what so ever I swear and my jaw dropped. I had some one else shoot it and watched for smoke cause I couldn't believe it.
My Vote goes to Klass Kote. I may not try any others at this point in time.
Side note: When sizing them I didn't use JP wax, I ended up spraying a little Lemon Pledge and tumbled them when they were cooled down. Worked like a charm.
Last edited by evil5826; 08-02-2013 at 05:19 PM.
Evil - what lead alloy are you using? I think I went harder than I should with a Lyman #2 clone. I plan to use lead with enough tin to fill the mold next time.
So Klass Kote is a 2K (2 part) epoxy?
How long is your oven cure time ?
Have you tried adding HBN powder?
I've got a few hundred rounds and 9mm and .40 PC(laquer thinner) ready to test at the range tomorrow. And I am hoping that the PC will work out because it seems to have a shorter oven time, cheaper,and less clean-up.
epoxy, however is less forgiving in adhesion and can make more sense.
Last edited by fastglock; 08-02-2013 at 03:01 PM.
This is where I received the recipe. 2 parts paint to one part activator and 2.5cc scoop of HBN powder. 100 degree C (212 degrees F) for 25 mins.
Last edited by evil5826; 08-02-2013 at 05:15 PM.
I'm just not getting the epoxy coating. The Klass Kote is a one to one epoxy so that's what I'm doing. I've done this last two batches thinned with a bit of lacquer thinner and this batch has the HBN powder added. I baked each coating at 215 for 25 minutes.
I can scrape off the finish with my finger nail:
I'm going back to the powder coat testing as that has yielded better results for me so fat. It's not perfect but it's at least working better than this looks.
The test mule this time was a Ruger GP100. Excuse the yet again poor pics of the bore. I can't get the focus just right on the bore as it either wants to go completely out of focus or try really hard to focus on the other end of the bore.
This was only after a dozen shots as I didn't feel like loading a bunch of what I thought for sure would be failures and have more lead or muck to clean up again. A wet cotton patch over a jag pulled out the usual black soot. Thirty minutes later I ran a dry patch through and after two passes I think this is the cleanest that bore has been since it was made. These were all 3.4gr of Bullseye under an NOE 358477 plain base boolit.
I initially didn't like this bullet but have grown to like it. Being a HP mold it can be a pain to cast with but once it starts working it drops some very good bullets. Why I can scrape the finish off with my finger nail but it leaves no lead in the bore is a mystery that is beyond me. I sized them all to .358" and will be loading all of them for further range testing in bulk but for now I must swallow my words on powder coat being the early winner. Maybe the trick was indeed to switch to a softer alloy.
Granted this is a powder puff of a standard pressure .38 Special but still this is a step in the right direction. As there was no traditional grease/alox/wax based lube on the lead there was also next to no smoke produced by these loads. I'm going to load up all that I cast last night and shoot them in one sitting to ensure I don't end up with build up and then it's time for higher pressure magnum testing and testing in other calibers.
Once again.... TBC....
little tip for using lacquer thinner. It doesn't matter how much you use, I put enough in to cover the boolits, sprinkle the PC in, dump boolits in and shake, swirl, shake, swirl until the lacquer thinner turns clear, and shake just little more for good measure making sure the bullets are coated evenly. Then I pour off the lacquer thinner and dump the boolits onto the wire mesh. Let dry there, then separate. You can reuse the lacquer thinner you poured off. I use 2 buckets, and pour back and forth until my batch of bullets are coated. The trick is the right amount of powder for the number of bullets. With PBTP polyester TGIC, I use 1/2 tsp/100 150 grain boolits. I like the results and the last batch I did 600 bullets in 1hr 20min. I need a bigger oven.
KK has worked the best for me also. Thanks for sharing your test guy's.
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|BP||Bronze Point||IMR||Improved Military Rifle||PTD||Pointed|
|BR||Bench Rest||M||Magnum||RN||Round Nose|
|BT||Boat Tail||PL||Power-Lokt||SP||Soft Point|
|C||Compressed Charge||PR||Primer||SPCL||Soft Point "Core-Lokt"|
|HP||Hollow Point||PSPCL||Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"||C.O.L.||Cartridge Overall Length|
|PSP||Pointed Soft Point||Spz||Spitzer Point||SBT||Spitzer Boat Tail|
|LRN||Lead Round Nose||LWC||Lead Wad Cutter||LSWC||Lead Semi Wad Cutter|