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Thread: 1911 grip screw bushing stripped

  1. #21
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Well - JB Weld doesn't hack it - 1 mag and both bushing popped out. Never know there was that much pressure/force on those bushing's during recoil.

    Guess it is time to take it to a gunsmith and have them silver Soldered/brazed/tig welded.

    It is either that or I glue the suckers on!!!!! (NOT)

    I have one or two in mind. Have to make a call tomorrow.
    Big Bore = 45+

  2. #22
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    I haven't been around much to take this thing to a shop and get it Tig Welded. No time this week either, I leave for PA tomorrow for a memorial for my oldest brother on Saturday - would have been his birthday!
    Big Bore = 45+

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Why not silver solder the new bushings in place?
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master mroliver77's Avatar
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    You must not be using the JB Weld properly. I have epoxied many different things and it should work and be very solid. You can also do as KCSO suggested and it would be better than new having more thread area. You could also bush it solid, drill and tap with stock threads.
    J
    "The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen

    "THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands by it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph."
    Thomas Paine

  5. #25
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mroliver77 View Post
    You must not be using the JB Weld properly. I have epoxied many different things and it should work and be very solid. You can also do as KCSO suggested and it would be better than new having more thread area. You could also bush it solid, drill and tap with stock threads.
    J
    The issue with the JB Weld is that there just isn't enough of it between the threads and the sides of the bushings and it comes apart in as little as 3 mags of 45 Auto.

    I could do a lot of different things to it IF I had the equipment and the know how - I don't have the equipment or know how to rout it out, plug it and then put new bushings in. A lot of things I can do with my hand tools - but those are beyond my capability.
    Big Bore = 45+

  6. #26
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    Why not silver solder the new bushings in place?
    If I had the equipment - yes I would.
    Big Bore = 45+

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Well, If you have a MAP gas torch, all your have to do is go to Lowes, or something and buy some brazing rod with the white flux around it. I believe that would do it.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

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    HOw big ore the holes exactly? I can't believe that a turned oversize bushing wouldn't do the job. I've run them out pretty big and they worked fine.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    Well, If you have a MAP gas torch, all your have to do is go to Lowes, or something and buy some brazing rod with the white flux around it. I believe that would do it.
    Braze Stainless steel to aluminum???? Didn't know you could - don't have MAP gas either. Would have to buy the whole kit.

    you never seen me solder copper pipes either - can get ugly!
    Last edited by MGySgt; 08-19-2013 at 12:27 PM.
    Big Bore = 45+

  10. #30
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCSO View Post
    HOw big ore the holes exactly? I can't believe that a turned oversize bushing wouldn't do the job. I've run them out pretty big and they worked fine.
    Probably a set of custom bushings would work - but which would be more cost effective in a GS for the consumer?

    Tig/braze/weld?
    Custom bushing?

    The purpose of the bushings is to hold the grip panels on. The only time the bushings would need to be removed/replaced would be to re-blue the frame - that ain't gonna happen it is aluminum. Go to a thinner set - Nope don't like them.

    If it were not for the possibility that the grips just might have to be taken off in the future to get at the internal parts I would just glue them on and be done with it. But with my luck - something else would go wrong with it and I would need to take the grips off to strip the frame for some reason - Murphy's law!
    Big Bore = 45+

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy

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    It will prob be easiest to just tig up the holes and re drill and tap for a standard bushing.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Why not just TIG the current bushings or blued steel ones into the frame Or are we dealing with different prosperities of the metal's?
    Big Bore = 45+

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy

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    Can't weld aluminum and steel together...well you can but its a highly special process that only places like shipyards and aircraft makers have avail.

    I still think twin weld made and sold thru brownells will do it.

  14. #34
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    No, even with a tig welder, you aren't going to weld steel or stainless to a alum frame. No one has mentioned the required grip screw bushing staking tool yet. When making a 1911 frame, the inside of the frame gets a countersink taper to stake the inside of the bushing once installed with a special tool, not a big deal, Brownells has them, not expensive. Staking the inside of the bushing with the special tool prevents the problem to begin with. This has to be done with standard or oversized grip bushings. In the end you come back and clean off the excess metal inside for mag clearance. If you remove a properly installed grip screw bushing without removing the forged in taper, you will always destroy the threads, alum or steel frame. Might be to late for this one, might need the grip screw holes in the frame tig welded closed, re drill and tap back to the standard size. Just make sure to do the countersink inside the frame 30% of the frame thickness and use the proper staking tool this time. That frame can be saved, going to need a machinist or gunsmith to do it, make sure they have the proper taps and staking tool to start with.
    Chris
    Last edited by cwheel; 08-20-2013 at 09:18 AM.

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy

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    Yup have the staking tool as well

  16. #36
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Chris - I knew about the staking of the Grip bushing. This is a used gun and I did not think to check the bushings for proper installation.

    The grip panels became loose shooting it. I tightened the screws and the next think I know the bushings are spinning in the frame.

    There were no threads left in the frame for the right side bushings - also you can tell they were not staked, I am sure you know that you can easily tell if the bushing was staked by the markings on the inside of it. The left set are staked in you can see the cuts left from the staking tool in the end of the bushings.

    I thought no problem - use some JB Weld and 'glue' the bushings in. Doesn't work. When the JB Weld setup I tried to pull the bushings out - they didn't budge - but within 3 Mags they were both loose (the 'repair' had set up for over 48 hours, plenty of time for curing).

    Who would have thunk there would be so much force on the Grip panel/bushing during recoil.
    Big Bore = 45+

  17. #37
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCgunworks View Post
    I still think twin weld made and sold thru brownells will do it.
    Twin Weld is not on their Web Site - just looked. Other adhesives.
    Big Bore = 45+

  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy

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    Must be some old stuff I have then. Ill look when I get back to the shop. They have another 2 part epoxy like the old twin weld that should do it. If not this isn't rocket science to fix.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master MGySgt's Avatar
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    No this is not rocket science - but you (and others) have skills and access to equipment that I do not. I have not 'welded' anything since high school and that was a LONG time ago.
    Big Bore = 45+

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy

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    Trust me I understand! I can't work on cars so I take them to a shop that does that

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check