Safe removal of Lee 2 cavity sprue plate

[cbshtr]

I just got a few new Lee molds with the alignment pins and I need to remove the sprue plate to polish everything up before using them for the first time. This has probably been brought up before but how do you remove the sprue plate screw and still have it work properly after putting it back together? I want to only do this once so I hope I get it polished well enough. Also, does anyone know if these new molds are made of a more durable aluminum than the old style?

[Full Mold Jack]

I just unscrewed mine and it all went back together fine. One thing I did notice is the spring washer works better one way than the other, the better way dosn't tend to back the screw out when opening the plate.

[cbshtr]

So what is the better way for the spring washer, edges or center down? I can look at the factory setup to see how they have it. Always have been curious which was the better way.

[Full Mold Jack]

I'm not sure how it came from the factory but I found it works better with the edges up on the underside of the screw head so the radius side is what the plate slides on.

[jmort]

^ +1 Makes sense and there is at least a 50% chance of it being the right way regardless.

[freebullet]

I threw away the Phillips head screw made a hex head bolt and installed a set screw my lee 2cavs. They don't come loose while casting anymore. I was thinking about doing a write up on how I did it.

[cbshtr]

Freebullet,
I bet a lot of guys would appreciate that. I have about six old style molds and one of them refuses to stay put.

[JIMinPHX]

Sometimes, those things come apart easily & other times (most) they fight you tooth & nail. When those self tapping Philips heads are tight, they can be a bear to get out. I've seen a few methods that worked well. One involved using a hammer actuated impact driver. Another involved filing flats on the screw head so that you could grab it with a wrench. Another involved using vice grips. My favorite, was putting a Philips head bit in the chuck of a drill press & putting heavy down pressure on the bit while using the chuck key as leverage to put a stiff turning force on the bit. This got the job done every time that I saw it tried & it never buggered up the head of the screw.

After I get that screw out, I normally add a set screw in the side of it, like Lyman molds have from the factory.

[leadman]

Sometimes heating the mold up on a hot plate or toaster oven will help. Just casting with a couple of my recent purchases caused the screw to back out even though there was lube on the pivot point.

[freebullet]

Freebullet,
I bet a lot of guys would appreciate that. I have about six old style molds and one of them refuses to stay put.

There you go. I posted " fix lee 2cav sprue screw for dummies & rednecks" . It's a pic heavy thread of my fix it mod. Hope it helps.

[cbshtr]

I read part of it since you will still posting it a little at a time. Will check out the balance of it latter this evening. What pictures I saw were very good in showing what you were doing. Who knows, maybe once I polish mine they'll go back together and stay that way. At least I know how to fix the one that won't stay put.

[JIMinPHX]

There you go. I posted " fix lee 2cav sprue screw for dummies & rednecks" . It's a pic heavy thread of my fix it mod. Hope it helps.

Link to post???

[Bzcraig]

Mine just unscrewed. Freebullet's thread is a good one.

[Liberty'sSon]

+1 on drilling and tapping to add a set screw. I also add a small piece of sacrificial copper wire at the bottom of the set screw hole so as not to damage the sprue plate screw.

[Full Mold Jack]

Link to post???

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...s-amp-rednecks

Nice write up, I'm now thinking a simple small blind set screw aka grub screw straight onto the sprue plate bolt thread may do the job too if it's not overtightened.