I received Brian's die set for converting 45 ACP brass into jackets for .500 S&W Magnum. This thread will document the very short learning curve for producing .500 S&W Magnum bullets.
When I approached Brian on this subject more than a year ago, I explained that my goal was to duplicate Hornady XTP style bullets. I sent him some Hornady XTP samples in .500 S&W Magnum, at 350 grains, for reference.
My patience has yielded amazing success. Using a proper weight core, the 350 grain result is easy to achieve, and the profile and nose design of the bullets is right on the mark!
The following is a step by step explanation of the sequence of operations. I will add images as I find the time. Please HOLD OFF making comments until I complete the review, since I may require more than one post (there's a limit to the length of each post) to complete the review.
------------------------- images have been added *** click on any to see larger image ---------------------------------
Step #1 - To anneal or not to anneal. I did my preliminary development with un-annealed brass. It seems to expand enough to give me proper final diameter, and correct nose formation. I will continue to produce these bullets using un-annealed brass. Of course, no nickle plated are allowed. You may find that annealing the 45 ACP brass makes life easier for you. I am going to be using small primer style 45 ACP in the future. I have been saving them for a while, for this purpose. The preliminary work was all done with large primer 45 ACP. NOte that there is a weight difference between the large primer brass and the small primer brass. For accuracy sake, use one or the other, but don't mix them.
Step #2 - Select a proper core. Brian sent me some reference cores, which were cast (pure lead) 45 caliber, at 263 grains. Those hit the combined (with the brass) weight at 350 grains. I already have a 44 caliber mold, which produces pure lead cores at 265 grains, and so I used that to cast cores. The slight difference in diameter is not making any difference in result. I am getting 350 grains, plus or minus a little bit. Close enough for 500 S&W Magnum work!
Step #3 - Expand the case. Brian supplies a crimp die insert, specifically for this purpose. I set the die so that the expander bottoms out in the brass, but just barely. I do this operation in a single station press, and leave the core swage and point form for the swaging die.
Step #4 - Install the core. I bring the expanded brass to the swaging press, and seat the cores there. The core seat bottom punch is smaller in diameter than the point form bottom punch. I will be engraving CS on the edge of this bottom punch, to assure that I am using the correct punch. I manually place a core inside the brass, UPSIDE DOWN, and place that assembly on the bottom punch. Keep in mind that the bottom punch needs to fit INSIDE the brass to properly seat the core. Apply lube to the outside of the brass before sending it up into the die. I adjust the die on my Rockchucker swaging press until I feel maximum pressure right at "cam over". When seating the core, I leave the ram in the UP position for a couple of extra seconds, allowing the lead to flow completely. I get more consistent seating of the cores that way. The brass fills outwardly to match up with the ID of the die, which gets you most of the way to final proper diameter. I'm finding that there's about 1/8" of brass showing on the top of the seated core.
Step #5 - Crimp the brass/core assembly. Again, I do this using the Crimp Die, and change out the insert to the crimp insert. For this 500 S&W Magnum crimp, I raise the ram, with the crimp die not yet installed, all the way to the top. I then screw in the crimp die until it just touches the brass. I lower the ram, and then rotate the die in 3 complete turns. That gives me a proper amount of crimp for this caliber.
Step #6 - Point form. I adjust the die so that I get maximum pressure at cam over, and that seems to give me a perfect point forming result. The point form bottom punch is larger than the core seat punch. I will be engraving the point form punch with PF.
Step #7 - Cannelure the bullets. My experience with the 500 S&W Magnum is that there is quite a LOT of recoil, and some mechanical connection between the 500 S&W Brass and the bullet has to be established to prevent the bullets from walking out of their cases, and locking up the cylinder. The standard crimp for the 500 S&W Magnum is a roll crimp. A cannelure provides for a place to roll crimp into. An option would be to use a Hornady Taper Crimp die, again, with the cannelure. The third option would be to use a Lee Factory Crimp Die, which will crimp the brass tightly to the bullet in every instance, with or without a cannelure.
I am waiting for Brian to provide the method for rolling over the nose on these bullets, so that the nose perfectly matches the Hornady nose.
I have added images, you can click on any image to see larger details. My results are as good (or perhaps a bit better) than the preliminary samples Brian sent to me over a year ago. I am very happy. In addition to having 8 casting molds for the 500 S&W Magnum , I now also have a way to make jacketed bullets for my guns. Brian's workmanship on this set is outstanding!
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I can cannelure them myself and save you the extra work
Shoot'em If You Got'em...
Originally Posted by PaulMarquis
BT Sniper
