simple Hi-Tek coating

[Love Life]

For reference: 9 minutes and 15 seconds at 385 degrees is perfect for 38 special boolits. 170 gr LSWC and 158 gr WC come out perfect.

I do 12 minutes exactly for the 230 gr rn in 45 acp.

[HI-TEK]

Ya gotta have em purdy to sell. If it looks like **** they won't buy it!

I use a 5-1-7 for the metallics and a 5-1-5/6 with the black. I mix the coating in 16oz batches for use the next day. I use 20-27 ml per 1500 or so. I bake at 400 for 10 minutes in a commercial convection oven (large pizza oven)

Would really appreciate if you can post some shooting test results, such as guns used, loads, powder used, chrono speeds and accuracy and most importantly, gun cleanliness after you finished. Photos of targets would also be useful if you have any.

[leadman]

Hi-Tek, I cast up a bunch of the 22 cal. boolits out of linotype today to start the quest for accuracy with a reasonably high velocity. I have been thinking of adding a filler to the case just to see what happens. I do have some Cream of Wheat cereal that I use for fireforming so will try that first before popping for the Puff-Lon.
Has anyone tried a little moly in the top coat to see what happens? I realize that it is not needed for normal shooting but the factor of high velocity might require something in addition to the coating.

[HI-TEK]

Hi-Tek, I cast up a bunch of the 22 cal. boolits out of linotype today to start the quest for accuracy with a reasonably high velocity. I have been thinking of adding a filler to the case just to see what happens. I do have some Cream of Wheat cereal that I use for fireforming so will try that first before popping for the Puff-Lon.
Has anyone tried a little moly in the top coat to see what happens? I realize that it is not needed for normal shooting but the factor of high velocity might require something in addition to the coating.

Hi Leadman,
Dusting on Moly on last coat, may be very tricky, as coating dries very quick and you may not get even distribution/adhesion, ( and very dirty and contaminating)
Making surface "more slippery" may not be what is needed.
If you wish to get that "additional benefit" you can try the Extreme or 2-Extreme Catalysed coating as a topcoat. They seem both to work very well and not affected with high energy use applications.
For your experiments, you can ask Donnie if he can supply you small samples to play with.
I am sure he would be please to assist.
Just make sure that coating passes all tests including sizing before using them.
Somewhere in the posts, I recall someone using coated stuff in a 223. Cant recall how long ago it was done.
Which coloured coating are you using?
I would appreciate your test results when completed.
HI-TEK

[btroj]

Since I am not selling these I don't care too much how they look, I only care how they shoot!

I will be making a thinner mix next time to get better coverage on the SWC.

On the whole this is a simple process.

[dverna]

Hey btroj,

I got the impression you were looking at rifle bullets (.375 H&H???). Didn't gunoil coat coat some .375's for you?

Don Verna

[kbstenberg]

Ausglock what was the brand of Convection oven you recently got?

[HI-TEK]

I might be getting good, first coat! GREEN MEANIEES

Magnificent. You are now a professional.

[btroj]

Hey btroj,

I got the impression you were looking at rifle bullets (.375 H&H???). Didn't gunoil coat coat some .375's for you?

Don Verna

He did. They shot as well as traditional cast at 1750 fps. Trouble was at higher velocity but I was really pushing them, more in the 2350 fps range. I need to do more testing but expect they will do 1.5 to 2 inches all day long. Not great but for the rifle, I will take it. Good hunting load.

Trouble with velocities higher than that is the need to go with a higher Sb alloy to get the hardness needed. Water dropping is a waste, the heating anneals the bullets.

I have some ideas on ways to get some hardness back, just need to find time to try a few things. I want a lower Sb alloy for hunting, I don't want a brittle bullet.

I think the coating has a ton of potential, it just needs more testing at higher speeds in rifles.

[Liberty'sSon]

Hi-Tek, I cast up a bunch of the 22 cal. boolits out of linotype today to start the quest for accuracy with a reasonably high velocity. I have been thinking of adding a filler to the case just to see what happens. I do have some Cream of Wheat cereal that I use for fireforming so will try that first before popping for the Puff-Lon.
Has anyone tried a little moly in the top coat to see what happens? I realize that it is not needed for normal shooting but the factor of high velocity might require something in addition to the coating.

leadman, I realize it adds a step, but have you considered adding a wax based lube to the lube grooves of a Hi Tek coated 22 cal Boolit? If it worked that way without the gas check it would still be an overall time saver.

[Ausglock]

Ausglock what was the brand of Convection oven you recently got?

It is a Heller brand 48 litre. Works like a dream. I have bought a second one for a spare.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Ausglock;2437039]Good job, Gunslick.


Trying to convince HI-TEK Joe to convert from a liquid concentrate to a dry concentrate that is easier to transport and store. also a simplified mixing procedure that is idiot proof. instead of a 3 part mix, you only have a pre-catalysed concentrate and just add acetone. Joe is ******** about cost of equipment, lack of time etc etc etc. But the bullet is everything and he is semi-retired, so he needs to put down the Jim Beam bottle, climb out of his lawn chair and get his act together.

Come on Joe...chop chop..


Well, thinking about stopping my sipping Kentucky Bourbon, the thought not really appealing.

If I get motivated, and gets some stuff made for experimental purposes, and, it is not going to be evaluated for some time, I may as well relax, and sink back into my shady lawn chair and continue look at the wonderful world out there lol lol.

In all seriousness, you have a good idea Ausglock, but it is a lot of work, up front costs, and I dont know if such efforts can be justified.
After I set up, and then, it does not work out, I will be forced to go back, and sip more Kentucky fluid, to numb the hip pocket pain, (more costs, as Kentucky Bourbon is very expensive liquid gold)

Having said all that, I am going to make up some Powdered test products using harder Polymer, similar to what is being tested today from solvent borne coating systems.
Target colours will be, Pearl Gold, Red Brown, 1035 Gold, 122 Red, and 154 Red.
This should provide a spread of colours that can be tested to determine if the powdered coating system is a goer or not.

Having made up 35 plus solvent based coloured experimental coatings in last 6 months and majority working just fine, we still seem to have no real outlets or interest in products in commercial volumes.
Unfortunately, this is the way of the world today.

Most keen to hear back about the test results today.

[Ausglock]

Todays testing.
All fired from a Kimber Stainless Target II in 38 Super.
4.8gr AP-70N powder ( I think this is available in the USA as Hodgdon universal) with Magtech small pistol primers.
All were loaded on a Dillon RL550B with dillon dies.
Bullet was Lee 120gr Con sized to .356. All were cast from commercially mixed Bullet alloy (2,6,92) 15 BHN.
All were coated with 2 coats and then sized.
10 rounds of commercial cast bullets were fired first to "dirty" the barrel.
All were shot from a sandbag rest seated at a table with the dustcover of the gun resting on the bag.
All velocities are averaged over 10 rounds fired at 4 metres from shooting chrony.
a bore snake was pulled through the barrel between each string
Commercial cast 125gr FP: 1120fps. Accurate 38mm @ 20 metres
red/copper original resin: 1125fps. Accurate 38mm @ 20 metres
green resin 1: 1125fps. Accurate 36mm @ 20 metres
Red/copper resin 1: 1122fps. Accurate 34mm @ 20 metres
red 254 resin 1: 1124fps. Accurate 35mm @ 20 metres
Rose red resin1: 1123fps. Accurate 39mm @ 20 metres
green resin 2: 1129fps. Accurate 34mm @ 20 metres
red/copper resin 2: 1127fps. Accurate 35mm @ 20 metres
gold 1035 resin 3: 1126fps. Accurate 34mm @ 20 metres
red/brown resin 3: 1128fps. Accurate 36mm @ 20 metres

As can be seen, there is very little between all the colours and the different resins as far as accuracy or velocity goes.
The resin 2 did show smaller indentation than the others when the side of a bullet was placed in the lee hardness tester for indicative indentation testing.
The barrel was inspected between each string and it was shiny clean with little powder fouling. the bore snake had is shining again after 1 pull through.

I would be happy to use any of the experimental resins in my guns.

I am now going to load all these again in 38 Super Major powerfactor loads and run them through the SVI racegun and see how the resins hold up at 1400 fps + for power factor of 165-170.

The Dog Dick Red in resin 1 did not coat correctly. it went blotchy. It baked fine and passed the smash and wipe test, but it looked like red leopard spots, so it got re-melted.

After all these coating over the last few months, my personal favorites are:

Gold 1035, FER (red 254), Red 1220L/no.1 (maroon), Red/ brown, glitter bronze, blue green.
If I were to go commercial, I'd go for Gold 1035 and blue green (Green & Gold are the Australian colours) in the resin 2.

I did 3 coats of red/copper on a 125gr RN. 2 coats then size and 1 coat after sizing. These were loaded with the same powder etc etc etc, and fired after all the above were completed. Velocity was higher 1145fps and accuracy was the same 36mm @ 20 metres. I could feel that these were giving more Oomph.
So. there you have it, Boys N Girls. Pick your colour and go play.

[Gremlin460]

The Dog Dick Red in resin 1 did not coat correctly. it went blotchy. It baked fine and passed the smash and wipe test, but it looked like red leopard spots, so it got re-melted.

Pot Kettle Kettle pot :P

red 220l Is working fine for me, so I redid the Vx2 ones in that.
I coat once and do wipe/smash test, then size, then they get one or two more coats depending on how I feel.

Shortly I will run the gauntlet with Star-Track and order some gold and green from Joe.
As for the purple, well that's for when I have time to experiment more.

Now off for coffee and a rest, sizing 3000 in one sitting gets boring really really quickly.

[Ausglock]

Grem. yeah yeah.
If I was using it for myself, yep. I'd shoot it.
But I'm testing for commercial use. So it gets the flick.

[sparkz]

Just Ordered up a 1/2 L Kit in Copper Red, and spoke with Donny about how to get started, I have been lurking this tread for a while and Collected most of whats needed I hope, I have a old toaster oven and a thermometer and some SS hardware cloth for trays, so
Wish me some luck re-reading thu this hell-a-sush thread,, hahah almost need a 2nd thread so a guy can follow this material and its install,

Patrick

[leadman]

Hi-Tek, I was the shooter that got 3,465fps out of the 223 Rem, 45gr Lyman RN w/GC, 2 coats of Red Copper with E2 catalyst. I was thinking more of adding the moly to the last liquid top coat of Hi-Tek, just as an experiment. Donnie has been very good about supplying me with small quantities of the different products to test.

Liberty, I have already gotten the above velocity with the coated boolit and now want to work on the accuracy. I have shot this same boolit in excess of 3,000 fps with just a wax based lube so am not really interested in adding this to the experiment. What I am trying to do is match the accuracy (1/2 moa) that I get with the jacketed bullets with a Hi-Tek coated boolit. The test at 3,465 fps was with 1.8" group size at 100 yards.

[jmort]

"What I am trying to do is match the accuracy (1/2 moa) that I get with the jacketed bullets with a Hi-Tek coated boolit."


You could be the first, as far as I know, with any "boolit coating." A worthy endeavor.

[Liberty'sSon]

I guess I was hoping someone would be able to a reach 3000 plus without a gc and still have reasonable accuracy 1-2 moa. Gcs are a pain to deal with. It would be nice to be able to eliminate them.

[popper]

Leadman - that's about 40K psi vs the ~30K psi I've done with the green on 30/30. About 75% of the force on the base of the 30/30. Looks like I might get to 1800 fps with the red copper. BHN is still a problem.
Jmortimer - I'm working on 1/2 MOA in 308, get MOA regularly, with PC @ 2400+.