Glad you had better success, Hi-Tek sure does stick well doesn't it?
Glad you had better success, Hi-Tek sure does stick well doesn't it?
Now... That is the colour DG730N should be. good job.
Our SIB green is lighter because it is a different green.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Cheers gents. I figured I would keep the cook time constant. And just lower the temp bit by bit till the colour comes good. It'll be a bit more scientific with pid installed. I've loaded about 50 up with 4gr of ap70. Should be nearish to 125pf
Wrong... keep the temp and vary the time.
Heavy bullets will take longer at the same temp.
It all comes down to how long it takes to get 2.5kgs of alloy up to temp.
eg:250 125gn 9mm bullets compred to 150 230gn 45 bullets, both bake for the same time at the same temp...
You get where I'm going with this????
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Finding time can be the hard bit....
I'm thinking (always dangerous) that my little radiant heat issue will not get solved by adding a PID. Might try some kind of heat shield...?
Another thing,my oven has two fans. One is on all the time,the other is working with temperature sensor(s). There is some aluminum tubing inside and around the oven for the second fan.The temp is holding pretty solid the way it is.
I'd think in this case it's best to simply replace the passive thermostat circuit with a PID so the second fan stays controlled the way it is,even though there will be more on/off switching by the PID. K-sensors and these very basic KISS PID:s are available.
.
Having said that,my coatings are good. Oven @ 195 is pretty solid but the radiant heat gets bullets up to 205. An extra fan might be more useful first.
I coated five different boolits today. I used five different colors of Hi-Tek. With each boolit I measured five samples before and after coating. The samples were marked so I know I was measuring the same boolits.
The thickest coating I measured was 0.0014 This was with Brick Red. Most of them were in the .001-.0012 range with two coats.
Now that I've done that I've got a question. Will we ever seen anything but Christmas colors and black in the US? Red, green gold, and black. There's the Gun Metal which is a gray also. I'd love to see a bright yellow/metallic yellow, orange, purple, and a white. I know from previous reading in this thread that blue is a non-starter with Hi-Tek.
NRA Benefactor.
To answer your question, the following colours may be available from Donnie,
1. Old Black, Black K-15, Texas Tea (Black with Gold glitter),
2. Dark Green Metallic, Zombie Green, and Kryptonite Green
3. Reds, 122 Red, 254 Red, Black Cherry (Dark Red), and DDR Red, (a flesh coloured pinkish Red)
The Gun Metal is a very dark green going towards Black
Donnie may not have these
4. There is a Burnt Orange colour,
5. Also, there is a colour Desert Sand, (a burnt Yellow type, The bright yellow tans with baking)
6. Purple, and White, None available as the coating destroys these colours.
7. Blue, is definitely not a goer.
8. Pearlescent Black,
9. Blush Red Copper.
10. Blue 818, but this turns a Green colour after baking.
I don't care what colour they are they all make short work of anything I shoot them at. I have so many contacting me to try the coating after I gave their mate some coated bullets to try. I admit to having been a wax lube user but no more, I don't begrudge those who still use the wax type lubes but I know I have found the Holly Grail of coatings. Regards Stephen
link to colors Donnie has available: Click on the color square and see the product on boolits (except the greens)
http://hi-performancebulletcoatings....-oz-container/
These are NOT metallic
Black Cherry
Brick red
black K15
The following colors are - metallic better for High heat / Rifle
Candy apple red- metallic
Red copper- metallic
Old gold- metallic
Gold 1035- metallic
Gunmetal- metallic
Black 1035- metallic
Bronze 502- metallic
Kryptonite Green- metallic
Zombie green - metallic
Last edited by Conditor22; 03-25-2019 at 01:43 PM. Reason: To make it easier to understand
Oven photos for Gatch.
Bulb location in oven
temp controller.
Wiring is very basic and easy to modify.
temp controller mounted.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Greetings from Contamination Nation!
I just cast a batch of round balls using an alloy which has 80% commercial Rio trap shot. I did not flux the shot before pouring it in the pot. It made my valve drip,I also fluxed quite a bit of crud out of it.
Here is how the balls look right now,after an overnight soak in (originally) 30% HCL, the acid is being used for the second time here so it is not as strong anymore.
What I'm saying is,you never know what your lead has unless it is from reputable dealer and/or analyzed. This is my contamination record. Cheap trap shot... I don't even wanna know what is in here. I don't like the idea handling it at all... Enter Hi Tek swirl and bake,all good then.
.
After soak and rinse it coats just fine.
So far I've let the first coat dry for 30 minutes, 1 hour and 4 hours. Every one has failed the hammer test. Passed the acetone and being run trough a sizing die and reduced in size as much as .0025". Outside temp here has been 60-82degF. I guess I'll have to let them dry a day.
I guess I don't understand how ANY bullet coating can effectively survive a trip through a sizing die, unless the bullet itself was well undersize to begin with. The sizing die will take the coating right off the driving bands, the very area you want to protect from bore contact.
So how does that work? Is the coating trapped in the lube grooves heating up, melting and flowing, and acting like a conventional lube? If so, how does that work for the newer PC bullets with no lube grooves??
Thanks,
Vettepilot
Last edited by Vettepilot; 03-25-2019 at 01:15 PM.
"Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)
jsizemore
Pictures are worth a thousand words. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...es-using-IMGUR
Dry them in front of a fan.
Your first coat may be to thick how thick are you mixing your solution?
For the first coat try 10 grams powder to 70 ml acetone and use 1 mil solution to 1 pound of boolits
make sure to mix the solution just before measuring it because the solids separate quickly (many use a syringe)
shake/swirl for 10-15 seconds if the coating is rough or the sound while shake'swirl changes your doing it too long.
Test the first coat after it's cooled before doing the second coat
Confirm your oven is actually reaching 200/400°
Last edited by Conditor22; 03-26-2019 at 07:50 PM.
Thanks, but I'm not actually doing it yet. I am still in the study/evaluate stage at this point. It's looking good, but I still don't understand how sizing a bullet wouldn't take the coating off....
Vettepilot
"Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)
It's because Hi Tek coating is not just paint on lead. It bonds with lead into one. A sizing die is simply squeezing the coated bullet smaller, not scraping. If it scrapes,it's the lead scraping off as well and then there is a problem with the sizer.
Here is a .4795 bullet as cast and coated. And the same bullet sized to 4765 and gas checked with a standard Lyman sizer. No lube was used,I just took the pic to show.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |