Couple questions about the hitek.
What is the difference to the average punter between the liquid/catalyst and the powder products ?
Also if I have some unused mixed powder in a bottle and it sits for a few weeks, can I just put in more acetone and use it or does it go "off" after a while ?
I don’t know much about the liquid version but, I believe the liquid coating is diluted with acetone and requires a catalyst also. The powder version only needs acetone to be added because the catalyst is already mixed in the powder. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
If previously mixed powder has dried out a bit and is now too thick you can just add more acetone. Far as I know it will still be good. I’ve used some after it’s been sitting for months and never had a problem. Bottles I use seal very well and the mix doesn’t evaporate very much. Just don’t leave it in direct sunlight.
Jatz357 you are right on with your post.
The dried coating in the container the bullets are coated in can be reused, just add bullets and Acetone and swirl until you have a light first coat.
One big plus about Hi-Tek there is very little waste.
Getting the first coat dry is the key, I agree that drying to 50 deg C for 15 min will insure success.
I've had a problem with the coloring agent in Hi-Tek lumping together here in Texas. I've found that keeping the mixture in the refrigerator prevents this.
NRA Benefactor.
I have used the liquid and still use it. When I started coating with Hi Tek that was all there was. Really the only big difference, as has been said, is that you have to measure three things instead of two. My liquid Hi Tek components are now almost five years old. When mixed and used it will still perform the same. However it is a little darker now than when it was fresh. I store all my mixes in a box on the floor of my basement. Trevor has mentioned several times the refrigeration for long term storage of unmixed and I believe mixed components. I've just never used it.
Joe did us a favor when he came up with the powder that mixes the catalysis and the color in one component which only needs acetone or MEK mixed to have the coating. It also has a cheaper shipping rate. My powder based coatings are not as old as the liquid and seem to coat about the same color and also perform the same.
As to it drying out, again as has been said, just add some more acetone and thin it down if it is a little thick. One thing that has not been covered is that if you let it completely dry out to a hard lump acetone will not completely dissolve it. I let some do this and was experimenting with letting the broken up clumps dissolve in acetone. After several months and an occasional shake the acetone had still not dissolved the big lumps. Finally threw it in the trash. Since most of the smaller ones dissolved I believe that if you took the completely dried out lump of mix and ground it up in maybe a coffee grinder you might get some coating mix again. It will be a darker color than original.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I posted this on the other thread, then noticed nobody has been there recently, then found this thread, so...
A good while back I bought some Hy-Tek coated bullets from Missouri Bullets for my 30.06. Haven't gotten 'round to loading/using them yet. They are red. How do I tell if it is the "Metallic" red or not?
They are BHN 18. Assuming (hoping) it is the Metallic Red they are coated with; what would max accurate velocity be??
Thanks,
Vettepilot
"Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)
In the sun or with a torch, you should see flakes if it's metalic, if none are seen, it will not be metalic.
As for what speed you can get, i can't help you, If the are gas checked, you can push them a fair bit harder than plain based ones.
I have shot Hi Tek in my .308 one grain short of max load with no leading. 165 grain bullet H4895 powder. That lead was around 15-17 BHN. I have since lowered the BHN to 12-14. They seem to be more accurate in my gun. Back then I didn't have a crono so no confirmed speeds. But they were probably moving around 2700 fps based on the speeds of my current load which is just .5 grains over start load which runs about 2550 to 2600 fps. Hi Tek seems to give me a little over advertised speed on loads. These were gas checked bullets. Not the 30 06 but close. Would think you could push 2000 fps without the check with no leading.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Batch 1 and 2
I used a little bit more acetone than recommended as it was relatively hot in the shed. About 1-2 teaspoons of mixture per 2kg batch of bullets. 20 sec shake. Dry for 10 minutes. In the oven for 10. It's a new oven so still working out the temp controls.. They look a little burnt, but the coating didn't buff or smash off after the first or second coat. The fall from the mold around .356. After 2 coats they are around .358-.3585. Sized back to .357. I am absolutely looking forward to sunday. Cant wait to load a few dozen up and see how they go.
I am stoked that in my first attempt I've produced usable boolits.
Yep.. Way over temp. That DG730N should be a dark green. Use 6mls to 250 of those bullets. About 2.3Kg. Go to the chemist and get some 10ml syringes. cheap as chips.
Add a few mls of Metho to the mix. that will slow down the flashing off of the acetone. Only swirl til they are just wet then dump them. probably 15 to 20 seconds this time of year in Brisvegas.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Yes,looks like it's too hot in the oven,Gatch.
I've been thinking about trying some extra air blowers inside my oven. I have been getting very good coatings but I'm missing the final step of colour perfection you know... a bit too hot,too dark...
My oven has a reasonable cyclone and has power to keep the temp quite steady. But some colors are more sensitive to radiant heat than others,my oven is usually at measured 190°C but that means the bullets hit 205°C because of the radiant heat from above. I verify things with IR meter.
I tried to add some (Candy Apple) red to TMG Gold but too hot turns the Red towards brown. Same bake Z-Green is just fine.
Burnt Fingers
I am wondering what is the thickness that you achieve with the Hi-Tek coatings?
Generally two coats applied to cast provides about 1.8-2.2 thou with two coats.
Some like to coat much thicker, but reality is that in majority of applications two thou should be adequate.
I have had reports where a single reasonable coating has performed adequately, but they look less than pretty.
Gatch, the first rule of ovens, the vast majority of them are not accurate temperature setting wise, often the temperature will vary with the temperature of the surrounding area. I check my ovens setting before each casting session. I have all the components to build a PID for it (them) but haven't gotten around to it.
I need to get the schematics for the ovens to know the voltage the fans use. I've read and heard the putting a pic on a convection oven can burn out the circulating fan in a hurry by the rapid on/off fluctuations so knowing the voltage of the fan I will wire it directly to it's own power source so it stays on the whole time the oven is on.
When installing a pid, can you have it controlling just the heating elements and not the fan ?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |