I run 2 trays. one on the low, one on the middle rack.
2.5Kg on each tray. 5Kg per load. 7 1/2 mins at 200 deg C.
I have a new oven to try. it will take 4 trays 10KG total in 10 mins at 200 degC
I run 2 trays. one on the low, one on the middle rack.
2.5Kg on each tray. 5Kg per load. 7 1/2 mins at 200 deg C.
I have a new oven to try. it will take 4 trays 10KG total in 10 mins at 200 degC
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
5 kg = 11.0231 pounds -- 22.0462 pounds total
Remember, this is not your regular countertop oven, this is a kitchen PID controlled oven with heat sinks.
The faster an oven can get back to 200°C 400°F the shorter the bake time
Conditor,
To an extent, I agree with your summary.
However, heating elements can be possibly at 400-600 degrees Celsius. Some glow Red which is higher in temperature.
Heating/baking time for a specific load not only depends on well controlled heating elements, but the heat transfer rate into the load after the air is heated.
Transferring heat from air inside oven onto alloy load, is required to be done as quickly and evenly as possible.
That heat transfer onto load of alloy, can be ideally obtained by having a cyclone air circulation inside the oven.
This eliminated hot and cold spots, and the load bakes evenly irrespective of the location inside oven.
Simply, if heated air is circulated well, this speeds up heat transfer to alloy to the correct baking temperature required to properly bake the load, and this is what controls baking time with a specific load.
Many seem to concentrate on oven temperature. In some fashion this is correct but misleading. What is required is that you have adequate heating capacity for a load inside a closed cabinet, and with plenty of air circulation.
Monitoring of alloy load temperature is more important. You may have an indication at a specific point inside your oven, showing air temperature at 200C, but that will not guarantee that the same heat contained in oven air you are measuring, is being transferred to alloy efficiently or adequately.
Your PID may say 200C, but what is alloy temperatures at that time? Your air can be hot, but that will not tell you if alloy is at correct temperature at that time.
Tony N
I have recollection of you asking questions for nearly a year, and you did not have success. Eventually you sold the coatings. That same coatings were then used by buyer and worked.
I am curious why you again are trying the coatings? More interestingly, you seem to again have almost identical problems as previously.
I am puzzled.
I baked a few 1000 tonight, Cause I was bored. I shot the bullets with the IR thermo through a crack in the oven door. at 6 mins they read 205 Deg C.
The oven, from cold takes 8 minutes to get to working temp of 200Deg C.
If I want to do 3 trays in this oven, I increase time to 8 1/2 mins.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
The use of extra acetone as you describe, does not cure leading it actually thins down the mix and makes it easier to get a thin even coat on first coating. I actually use this mix on my first coat as well, take note of what HI-TEK said about it being important the first coat is a thin one. If you take the advice offered by Joe and Ausglock you will be well pleased with results. Regards Stephen
Last edited by Stephen Cohen; 01-31-2019 at 11:45 PM.
I never sold the powder.. I ended up keeping it. I bought that convection oven and I just washed them in acetone and now I'm finally getting acetone test that passes and smash test. My question is. If I do 120 ML would that thin the coating to much? I have done 3 colors that look really nice and they all turn out nice. I have done 4 coats. No big deal as I coat and dry for 5 min under a box fan then bake 5 lbs for 10 min. I have taken one out after 8 and 9 min. And they didnt pass. So 10 min. Is the bare min. Why do I keep trying your product? Something in my heart tells me to keep going back to it.. I would also like to hear from more that shot this in 9 to 10 BHN?
I would like to see you make some blue or orange colors.
Stephen you telling me you do 120 ml first coat and last 2 coats you have another hatched maid up and do 100 ml with 2 coats? Will 120 ml with 3 coats not be enouph to protect?
I use 120ml accetone on 2 coats. Seem to work great. Great cover and with the 20 ml extra accetone it's easier to get a full coat on traditional boolits with lube groove. Not that it matters, but it looks nicer with the whole boolit covered.
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I do 100ml on the first coat but I use 10% less coating per pound. I mix 10 gr powder to 50 ml acetone if I am planning on doing a bigger batch of one color I'll go 20 to 100
Joe, All my ovens are convection type with heatsinks (heat retaining media covering the bottom between the elements)
I've never been too concerned with the boolit temperature during baking (I don't have a good way to test that) I've had success by Just with getting the oven up to 200/400° as fast as possible with good air circulation. I determine proper bake time for my ovens by testing the boolits at the end.
To those who use countertop ovens without a PID, you should recalibrate the oven setting every time the surrounding room air temperature changes more than a few degrees. due to the design/location of the oven thermometer, it is affected by room temperature
Stephen,
Thank you for kind words.
Tony was on this web site about a year ago. He was having all sorts of problems, and was asking for help.
Many on this site, and including supplier of the coatings gave many and lengthy credible and practical advice, over a 12 month period. In the end I became so frustrated with trying to help, and that help being ignored, and questions continued coming relentlessly with no resolution.
I was contacted by a moderator after I displayed my impatience, and, after I explained what was going on, it was decided that Tony will not coat again. The moderator contacted Tony, and a deal was struck.
12 months later, Tony has obviously purchased more coating, and we are back to square one with failures and many questions asking for help.
The problems seem to be that Tony wants to use products, but will not follow advice, yet again.
I hate to say it, but I find it very difficult to hold back my frustration that is starting to emerge again.
My suggested solution is, that if someone is living close to Tony, who has successfully used the coatings, would they be prepared to offer hands on advice at a suitable venue?
Any takers?
Yeah... I gave up, in the end...
As they say.... You can't help someone that doesn't want to be helped.
And.... you can lead a horse to water, but can't make him drink.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I can go help Tony if he wants it and he is close enough. Made that offer the last time we were trying to help. Where does he live? U.S.?
But I'm not sure he is going to be able to use that 8BHN lead in a 9mm, no matter what he has on it. Or how well it is applied.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I hope it's OK if i post a question, I hope it's not posted before.
Does Black K-15 offer other coating properties than other colors that makes it better in any way?
I'm in the process of order some different coatings to try them out. I'm interested in only using 2 coats so good cover is essential.
I'm thinking Black K-15 and Candy Apple Red. Any other I should consider?
Today I'm testing out a different kitchen oven with an air fan, so I'm hoping to avoid hot/cold spots and to get better results.
Thanks again!
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K15 covers really well with 2 coats of 20gms:100mls, 6mls per coat for 2.5Kg of bullets.
It doesn't have the heat reflection properties of the metallics.
Candy Apple is my pick of the reds and it is metallic.
Last edited by Ausglock; 01-31-2019 at 04:20 PM.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I have great results with Candy Apple Red using 125 ml/20 g for the first coat and 100 ml/20 g for the second coat. Any one trying to coat in cold weather need's a heat source for drying the coating, just using a fan in cold weather will not dry the coating.
I make sure I get the coated bullets up to 120 deg F for 20 minutes, this maybe over kill but I don't have any failures of the coating.
I musty be doing something wrong. Years of using Hi-tek and have never had leading or problems since I upped the bhn to 12 ish.
Can anyone help?
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
Besides being nice to look at, what does the metalics do that the non-metallics can't?
It may be a strange question to you but I'm a total noob at this
By the way, my oven seems to work great so I guess your guyes were right there! It's easier to get good results with an hot air fan in the oven. I cured 2 trays of 9mm with 5 kg on each tray in the oven for 12 minutes. No discolouration, and my IR temp showed alloy temp up to 200 C after 7-8 minutes.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |