simple Hi-Tek coating

[shanep]

I don't know if you have been following this thread long.
There is detailed posted results with cleaning cast made from mystery metals.
Wheel weights may be a problem but can be used.
What you may have to do, is cast, and soak some in Hydrochloric Acid, (concrete cleaning acid) that has been diluted two parts water and 1 part acid.
You can get this stuff in most hardware stores. (You can re-use the diluted acid mix)
Do it in a plastic container. After soaking say over night, wash them well, and dry them well, then coat.
After coating, dry them well also, even if you can warm to 50C before baking.
Contaminants in wheel weights may be causing poor adhesion and acid pickling will remove surface contaminants and allow you great bonding with coating..
When first coat is dry, try baking a few first, and examine results before you bake the larger batch.
Let us know how things go afterwards.

I will try that, thank you.

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[HI-TEK]

Shane... if you can wipe the coating off back to bare lead, then you have no where nearly enough heat in your oven. get a thermometer to check the oven temp. Go have a look at the HItek do's and don'ts thread. and follow the steps.
The above acid treatment is a last resort for mystery metal...

If you look at post 1094, you can se flakes coming off. When wiping with solvent, all that seemed to be happening is flakes being wiped off, as the coating may have been cured but not bonded.
If solvent is not dissolving coating, it is cured but not bonded.
As you know, not enough drying of first coat and problems with mystery metals has caused such failures.
If he dries first coat very well, and then bakes a few to test, (over bake if required), if it fails again, it is unfortunately an acid wash/soak pretreatment is required.

[Petander]

My WW alloy has contaminants that prevent proper bonding. It took me a while to find out,I had all kinds of problems . I didn't know about acid test at all.

Acid test is easy,you can use raw concrete wash (it's usually quite a bit diluted HCL).

If your bullets start sizzling,making tiny bubbles,you have contaminants. Wait for an hour or two to see if anything happens.

Bullets turn dark overnight and are ready for rinse/dry. The cleaned bullets work exceptionally well with coating. Here you can see shiny bullets as cast to the left, the same bullets after overnight HCL soak to the right.

Attachment 232650.

[shanep]

I have a batch in acid right now. 2 parts water, 1 part acid. Is that mixed properly? Should I leave it overnight or a few hours?.

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[dikman]

Sorry to interrupt the thread flow, I just wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas, and lots of successful coating in the New Year.

[HI-TEK]

I have a batch in acid right now. 2 parts water, 1 part acid. Is that mixed properly? Should I leave it overnight or a few hours?.

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You can possibly leave it a few hours, or over night, it really does not matter. What you are achieving with acid wash is removal of surface contaminants, and leaving a porous surface.
I suppose, as petander said, if you have bubbles forming when adding the acid to your cast, then you have contaminants. The bubbling slows and stops, is probably good enough.
After acid wash, how did they look? Did they fizz with acid?

[Ausglock]

Merry Christmas to all you bullet coaters out there is cast bullet land.
All the best from the Land down Under.

[shanep]

You can possibly leave it a few hours, or over night, it really does not matter. What you are achieving with acid wash is removal of surface contaminants, and leaving a porous surface.
I suppose, as petander said, if you have bubbles forming when adding the acid to your cast, then you have contaminants. The bubbling slows and stops, is probably good enough.
After acid wash, how did they look? Did they fizz with acid?

I let them sit 6 hours, didn't notice much bubbles. Ther bullets are definitely clean. They're hollow points so hard to take a hand full in paper towel and know the solution out of them. I'll coat them this week and let you all know. I'm sure this will fix it. Thanks guys. Merry Christmas.

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[Avenger442]

shanep
Sent you a PM.

[Petander]

I let them sit 6 hours, didn't notice much bubbles. Ther bullets are definitely clean. They're hollow points so hard to take a hand full in paper towel and know the solution out of them. I'll coat them this week and let you all know. I'm sure this will fix it. Thanks guys. Merry Christmas.

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If nothing happens in six hours your alloy is most probably ok.

[shanep]

If nothing happens in six hours your alloy is most probably ok.

Should I rinse them afterwards, or start choosing after they dry.

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[HI-TEK]

Should I rinse them afterwards, or start choosing after they dry.

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After acid wash, I advised you to wash/rinse the acid treated alloy well, and then dry them to remove water, before coating.

[Ausglock]

So... now that you have found that your alloy isn't contaminated.
My questions still remains un-answered.
Have you checked the actual temp of your oven with a thermometer?
Have you read my instructions on the Do's and don't thread??

[Petander]

The above acid treatment is a last resort for mystery metal...

Acid test makes sense as a first resort when we are dealing with unknown alloys. I test everything, I have some pure that don't react at all. No need to soak. On the other hand, I cleaned some 22/j-bullet "range scrap" which is really bad,reacts hard,needs a HCL soak.

My ton of WW /mono-mix (niobium & copper contaminants) gets automatically soaked,now that I know.

Shane's bullets look a bit like my first ones,that's why I suggested test. I banged my head for months with bad alloy.

[Conditor22]

Trevor's thread http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...o-s-and-don-ts lines 1 - 5 refer to the liquid Hitek coating system
Suppliers website http://hi-performancebulletcoatings....-instructions/

I've seen that some members "think too much" when starting out HiTek coating.
Don't think, follow the instructions word for word.
read through both instructions completely. If you take the time and go back through his thread you will see multiple time where people have problems, listen to the Aussies / advice and have success.
agitator in mixing bottle
Mix 20 grams (309 grains) of powdered coating to 100ml (3.3-3.4 ounces) of acetone. I do 10grams to 50ml
let new solution set for 30 min
agitate solution immediately before measuring and applying
less than 1 mil solution per pound for the first coat
don't shake swirl over 15 seconds
fan dry the coating completely COMPLETELY (damp coating will cause failure)
preheat the COMPLETELY dry boolits on a spacer on top of the oven
make sure oven is at 400F (convection ovens work much better and can do larger batches)
bake 12 min if the coating turn dark and you're sure the oven is at 400 shorten your bake time (dark boolits shoot just fine)

[Petander]

And it doesn't have to be a small,cheap "toaster oven" My oven is in an outside shed and we have winter now. Snow. Below zero Celsius.

It is a 50€ second hand household wall oven, I bake ten pounds at a time. I started with a "toaster oven", still have it but hey, they make good pizza and fries...

Here is ten pounds of 12 gauge slugs. Not maxed out, 12 mins @ 200 C°.

Attachment 232749



A proper oven takes much of the quesswork out.

[Petander]

Here:

Attachment 232750

I cast 500 Christmas Slugs yesterday,coated half of them today.

[Petander]

Closer. This is TMG Gold again.

Attachment 232751

[Boomsticks Firearms]

Forgive my ignorance but why would you coat 12 gauge slugs for are they not going to be in a wad which it rides in?

[shanep]

So... now that you have found that your alloy isn't contaminated.
My questions still remains un-answered.
Have you checked the actual temp of your oven with a thermometer?
Have you read my instructions on the Do's and don't thread??

I have checked it, does good until I put bullets in them it drops the temp. But it's gets to 350-400. But at first it drops to 300. So I watch the thermometer when it reaches 350 I start timer. It's brand new an junk. So I'm looking for a real oven.

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