simple Hi-Tek coating

[Avenger442]

Guys QVC has a Kitchen Aid convection oven on sale for $89.95. Regular price $165.

[popper]

Got to get casting ang HiTek gold again. Got some new acetone.

[glockfan]

This horizontal thing happens to me with AR:s /sandbags.

I'm pretty good with bolt rifles with bipods/bags/whatever. I have shot them for decades "free recoil" so that I'm holding the rear bag with my left hand. Shoulder/cheek pressure only,the right hand merely "surrounds" the grip, only the trigger finger is really touching. Very consistent,I try to disturb the gun as little as possible.

Transition from that form to support an AR that's jumping around seems to take some time to figure out. I might get three in one hole,then the next one goes 2" to the left or right for no reason I can tell. There must be some unnoticed variables in my form.

back in the day ,when i was range manager during the hunting season,i could zero 30 to 50 rifles everyday during 2-3 months at 20$ each. i must point out that over here,hunters are getting 1 practice session before their hunting trip,then it's '''in the case,see you next year '''lol. that means most of them are not even able to zero their own rifle themself.......but to get to the point, i always used the same technique as yours. sand bags on the rear,my trusty rock'n'br on the fromt,my left arm circling the bags. if you put some attention on the way you rest the stock on the front rest,it doesn't even jump when the shot break. i still use this technique,i don't hold the front of the rifle at all ,and it works great for me.

[Ausglock]

Ditto. Left hand squeezes the rear bag for fine sight adjustment.

[HI-TEK]

Glockfan I sent you a PM. Please reply

[HI-TEK]

Got to get casting ang HiTek gold again. Got some new acetone.

Popper, you would love the new Gold TMG. It is brilliant. Unfortunately it is very expensive to produce, some 50% more that normal 1035 Gold.
There is a local guy who already wanted it despite price. It is only available in small quantities at this stage.

[HI-TEK]

I have had great feed back on Aqualube sizing lubes. All that had used it, noticed a great improvement with sizing even with hard alloys and improved bore cleanliness.. I know it is expensive to buy, but it goes such a long way, that end use cost is extremely low. A 300g bottle of highly concentrated version will lube many hundreds of thousands. Donnie has the hobby sized packs and also commercial packs for larger producers.

[Avenger442]

I have had great feed back on Aqualube sizing lubes. All that had used it, noticed a great improvement with sizing even with hard alloys and improved bore cleanliness.. I know it is expensive to buy, but it goes such a long way, that end use cost is extremely low. A 300g bottle of highly concentrated version will lube many hundreds of thousands. Donnie has the hobby sized packs and also commercial packs for larger producers.

Has anyone used this to resize the cartridge cases? I know there are spray lubes to do this. Just wondering if someone has experimented with Aqualube for that particular use.

[wlkjr]

I have had great success with Aqualube sizing the coated bullets, and even recoating bullets after sizing. I have not tried it as a case lube as I use Hornady's One Shot. I'm really still on my first bottle of Aqualube after sizing at least 10,000 pieces.

[Ausglock]

Has anyone used this to resize the cartridge cases? I know there are spray lubes to do this. Just wondering if someone has experimented with Aqualube for that particular use.

Hmmm... I have a handful of 25-06 that need FLSing.. will try it and see.

[Avenger442]

Pulling stuck cases is probably the worst thing for a handloader. I usually use the Hornady and a lube pad. Forgot once.

[HI-TEK]

I have had great success with Aqualube sizing the coated bullets, and even recoating bullets after sizing. I have not tried it as a case lube as I use Hornady's One Shot. I'm really still on my first bottle of Aqualube after sizing at least 10,000 pieces.

wlkjr,
The Aqualube has been used for many years as a dry lube and release agent. It can be virtually be used in every application where binding, sticking is occurring between metal to metal, and all synthetic materials, and it is great for lubricating squeaky hinges, wooden drawer runners where there is binding, on metal cutting saws, especially when cutting Aluminium, and drilling applications to help with removing swarf.
One large company made it into a spray can as a dry film lube, with low VOC.
I have seen it used for garage roll a door runners, Aluminium windows to stop binding, conveyor belting to help with slip and reduce wear of belts.
It is used in boring tool lubrication when making gun barrels.
Main thing is, that once applied to surfaces, it is clean, dry, and will not attract dust and dirt as surfaces repel all.
This is important as other liquid/oily types of lubricants leave residues that will attract dust that has to be constantly cleaned from surfaces.
If you have tight fitting parts, after applying the Aqualube, it moves like silk.
Remember, use very sparingly as it does not take a lot to work, and for a long time.
Warning, once applied to a surface, and dried, it is almost impossible to remove, as it becomes insoluble in all cleaners and solvents.
DO NOT SPILL ONTO THE FLOOR, it is very slippery, and removal can be achieved with grit blasting.

[shanep]

I've bought zombie green and new toaster oven. Cast me some bullets tonight. But will paint thinner work, or should I wait until I get acetone? I'm just getting started with this process, have always just lubed on my lubrasizer. Hate that till won't be used as much now. Lol thanks that's my new oven. What do ya'll think? guys

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[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=shanep;4466779]I've bought zombie green and new toaster oven. Cast me some bullets tonight. But will paint thinner work, or should I wait until I get acetone?

shanep,

under no circumstances should you use any solvent that is not pure Acetone.

I had a local commercial caster guy, telling me that the coating was no good, and having to re melt 250,000. Investigations after exhaustive efforts revealed, he purchased a solvent labelled Acetone UN 2205 to make up coating mixture.
But what in fact he purchased was a Acetone Reducer as used by car painters.
This solvent contains 60% Acetone but the rest 40%, is chemicals to slow down drying, oily solvents, and this wrecks coating drying and prevents adhesion during baking.

Pure Acetone should be UN 1090.

Some retailers don't know the difference between them, and sell you solvent which has Acetone, but this end up causing you lots of head aches, as you wont realise why coating simply wont bond to freshly cast alloy.
Use the correct stuff, and all should be OK.

[shanep]

[QUOTE=HI-TEK;4466801]

I've bought zombie green and new toaster oven. Cast me some bullets tonight. But will paint thinner work, or should I wait until I get acetone?

shanep,

under no circumstances should you use any solvent that is not pure Acetone.

I had a local commercial caster guy, telling me that the coating was no good, and having to re melt 250,000. Investigations after exhaustive efforts revealed, he purchased a solvent labelled Acetone UN 2205 to make up coating mixture.
But what in fact he purchased was a Acetone Reducer as used by car painters.
This solvent contains 60% Acetone but the rest 40%, is chemicals to slow down drying, oily solvents, and this wrecks coating drying and prevents adhesion during baking.

Pure Acetone should be UN 1090.

Some retailers don't know the difference between them, and sell you solvent which has Acetone, but this end up causing you lots of head aches, as you wont realise why coating simply wont bond to freshly cast alloy.
Use the correct stuff, and all should be OK.

That's good information sir, thank you. I was thinking that it contained oil base.

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[shanep]

[QUOTE=HI-TEK;4466801]

I've bought zombie green and new toaster oven. Cast me some bullets tonight. But will paint thinner work, or should I wait until I get acetone?

shanep,

under no circumstances should you use any solvent that is not pure Acetone.

I had a local commercial caster guy, telling me that the coating was no good, and having to re melt 250,000. Investigations after exhaustive efforts revealed, he purchased a solvent labelled Acetone UN 2205 to make up coating mixture.
But what in fact he purchased was a Acetone Reducer as used by car painters.
This solvent contains 60% Acetone but the rest 40%, is chemicals to slow down drying, oily solvents, and this wrecks coating drying and prevents adhesion during baking.

Pure Acetone should be UN 1090.

Some retailers don't know the difference between them, and sell you solvent which has Acetone, but this end up causing you lots of head aches, as you wont realise why coating simply wont bond to freshly cast alloy.
Use the correct stuff, and all should be OK.

Where can I find it.

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[HI-TEK]

Where can I find it.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Acetone can be purchased from Paint stores, Hardware stores, and if you have a Fiberglass supplier, or fiberglass manufacturer, they will also have Acetone as they use it for clean up work.
I don't know your location so it is difficult to offer specific details.
Generally, hardware stores do have small tins of it but is very expensive that way.
It is best to find people who have 200 litre drum lot, and have them decant some into a Steel can of yours.
It should work out much cheaper that way.

[Petander]

Popper, you would love the new Gold TMG. It is brilliant. Unfortunately it is very expensive to produce, some 50% more that normal 1035 Gold.
There is a local guy who already wanted it despite price. It is only available in small quantities at this stage.

This remote guy here would like to get some TMG,too.

I'm also ready for my first grooveless mould, to feed 458S.

[Ausglock]

Honestly... The Sunny Gold is just as good as the TMG gold.
The Gold 1035 and Old Gold also are just as good.
If I was buying it, I couldn't justify the extra cost of the TMG...

[ioon44]

One Problem with looking for UN 1090 number is that small containers don't have the UN 1090 number on the can and was probably on the case the small cans were shipped in.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UN_number