Blessed are those who mourn,for they shall be comforted.
Blessed are those who mourn,for they shall be comforted.
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
The gun should be on it's way to my dealer by now. My PTA only got sent off last friday though. It's probably 2 weeks away.
Not going to blacktown this year. It's right in the middle of busy time at work, I can't take the days off either side of the weekend unfortunately.
Thanks for clarification.
Can you wipe out the residue, or is it bonded to bore?
If coating is bonded to bore, that coating was not cured. Heat will and can re-activate not correctly cured coating, and whilst it is reacting/crosslinking with heat from powder and gasses, it becomes very sticky. At that point, it sticks and welds to most metals. After that, it is very difficult to remove as it becomes bonded and inert and not affected by cleaners or solvents.
A fully cured coating will not melt, or become sticky or bond with other surfaces. It is very inert and will tolerate heat, and solvents, and wont become sticky or re-dissolve.
I am not completely clear what you are advising with this post. Can you please elaborate with a little more detail?
You seem to be advising some very strange results I have never seen before.
So far I have been very lucky with not getting any coating bonded to the barrel. this may be off topic but I don't do anything special... except... my cleaning solvent of choice is Ed's Red that I make with lanolin in it. Ed's red has ATF as the real oil in the mix.. but leave out everything but Acetone and ATF (mixed 50/50) and what you have is one of the best penetrating oils you can get. Doing creep tests on rusty nuts/bolts shows how well this works..
Now.. this is a theory so bear with me.... I think the penetrating aspect of the Ed's Red gets into the pores of the metal... I don't think anything on the planet can stick to the oil part of that. I came to this conclusion years ago using conventional lube/size bullets and getting the occasional leaded barrel and of course burn rings on cylinders... soaking in ER overnight made this stuff brush right out.
If you don't want the mess and potential fumes problems of ER then there is Kroil.. it is expensive but smells a LOT better LOL... It does not take a lot and once the pores are 'treated' by normal regular cleaning.. cleaning seems to get easier every time.
lazs
Petander, have you determined what that is in your barrel yet?
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
I have only ever used Hoppes No.9 solvent for all my guns.
But when I was using wax lubed bullets, I also has a Lewis Lead remover kit.
It's not needed these days. the coated bullets keep the cleaning down to 1 patch of solvent.
Even the comp on my TruBor stays clean when running 125gn SWC at 1400 fps.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Thats pretty good. Mine gets full pretty quick with blackwidows so ive switched to tigersharks.
Hey Ausglock, Seems like I remember a post of yours where you bent the blades of a fan in a convection oven to get more air flow. If true , looking at the fan from the back which way did you bend them?
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
Tigershark projectiles. They are electroplated with copper like frontier projectiles. I use these in my open gun and cast lead in everything else.
https://tigersharkballistics.com.au/
I didn't know that. I am not sure I would bother unless I can get a bigger oven.
I am happy to clean the barrel but chipping the lead out of my compensator was a chore and a half.
I'm curious as to why Ausglock's doesn't lead vs the other projectiles I've used. I thought they were all the same. Maybe the final bullet sizing is different.
I haven't heard great things about tigersharks. They are copper plated, just like a FMJ and look awesome. Some ranges will not let you shoot them as they feel it is a jacket, even though the "jacket" is very thin. For the range i shoot at, we can't use jacketed projectiles on steel targets for obvious reasons, potential ricochets.
A guy i know tried some out with a mate of his and would get 4 in the same hole, then there was a flier. They measured the projectiles and found the sizing was inconsistent, hopefully just a bad batch, but they were not impressed. He now uses frontiers now, same plating but very accurate.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |