Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Glock I'm asking if a factory oven like these have enough air movement? I don't want to pay for something if they don't move much air. A counter top convection oven should work but I have found they barely move air.
I'm asking if anyone has a full size house oven if they move a lot of air?
I may be totally wrong here, and I am happy to be corrected, but I have rightly or wrongly come to the conclusion that Tony N is baiting and having us all on. I cannot believe that any one after one year of trying cannot coat cast alloy.
We seem to be going from one alleged problem to another, then back again, starting from the beginning, sideways, and in all other directions..
Quite frankly, I was very happy to assist, but now I am not so keen.
As Trev said, if it's got a fan (usually mounted on the back wall) then it's a fan-forced oven, which is designed to move hot air. As long as the fan's working, and the oven heats up, then it should work for coating boolits. It will require trial-and-error to work out how many it can successfully cure and the time setting needed, which will be determined by how quickly it will heat up. No-one can say how well it will work until you try it (asking how much air they will move is pretty irrelevant in this context, as long as it's moving air that's all you need to worry about).
I really can't see what the problem is.
Here's a handy feature, go to upper right corner, click on your user name then "UserCP"
Down on the left side of the new screen under "My Settings" click on "Edit Ignore List"
On last screen fill in user name, then click "OK" on the right side of screen. Once done you'll never see posts by any users added to the list.
(Click pic to enlarge)
Last edited by benellinut; 02-04-2018 at 08:18 PM.
Be careful what you wish for!
Sweet..... Thanks.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
TonyN isn’t playing dumb. He is asking a serous question because he has been having issues with coating.
He contacted me about a issue and was asking if a PID would fix his problem.
I use a $100 convection countertop oven that I got from Amazon.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Hatch,
Thanks for your input, most appreciated.
What concerns me, (and many others on this site) is that despite numerous and detailed advice being provided by members, over and over, from what is being published by TonyN thereafter, is not what was advised. Simply put, he is not taking any advice seriously, and is determined to do things his way. When it does not work, he then starts again, despite his not following previous advice given.
In 25 years, I have never had any one that was not successful in using the coatings within a few attempts.
To date, no one previously had continued failures for 12 months.
I am really concerned, that TonyN is posting to having such problems, and over such a long time, or,..it has to be questioned, are these failure posts, another agenda playing out?
I may be over sceptical, but am also very concerned for obvious reasons.
From many private messages I received, and posts made by others, it really is a mystery that needs resolving.
Hi-Tek
Hi-Tek I'm very serious about this Hi-Tek issue. Of it doesn't cure in 15 min. And I never once have issues with PC then I don't know why. Iv been trying to give your product a real try. I truly want this to work out but how about you refund my money and I'll put it into PC... I really don't like Glock attitude and your comment about how I keep having issues. Iv tried everything you guys tell me. Maybe that's why there are so many more using PC then Hi-Tek. There are so many more using PC then Hi-Tek.
I have 6 colors of your product. I would really hait to waste it all.
Refund because you won't follow what your told??? The questions you asked today you asked more then a week ago and you had multiple replies giving you the answers, Ausglock even posted pictures of his "house oven" and yet you ask once again if a convection house oven will work, we already told you YES. You have a history of asking questions repeatedly after they have been answered now you seem offended? The folks here have gone above and beyond to help you out, sorry but no pity shed here. I'm out.
Be careful what you wish for!
His oven is Not a normal house oven correct? He has done mods to it to get it to where it's at correct? Thank you I'm glad you found your way out of this convection. Likebi said before. Tons more use PC then this product. You can tell by the post. I shouldn't have to get a special oven or anything special to get this to work. I did PC and for it to work great the first time. In wanting to have both options in coating. I have done upwards to 15 min. And it still wipes off with the acetone test. You tell me what's the issue is then .
One LAST comment, if PC has been working so well for you, why, after a year, are you still trying so hard to get HiTek to work?
Granted folks new to HiTek come and ask questions but in short order they find out where they are going wrong and 99% of the time it's because they didn't follow the instructions. Where are all the other folks posting that no matter what they try they just can't HiTek to work? You're standing alone on that issue after such a long time, after being given so much advice and that's raising eyebrows.
Be careful what you wish for!
sorry my friend, but you're completely off track right now.
either you're serving an hidden agenda,or you don't follow the recipe correctly. even me who is a complete idiot when it comes to cooking things i've succeeded at cooking my boolits correctly; the finish don't peel, it support the hammer and the acetone test.
i'm using 2 oven,one is a 80 $ black'n'decker convection type oven,the other one is a similar master chef unit . both are on the cheap side.
it is simple. assuming you mix the powder correctly with the indicated amount of acetone and powder, you must also use the correct amount of mixture for the amount of bullet you need to coat. 20 grams of powder for 100ml of acetone .you should use 1ml of the mixture for each pound of bullet .
. when you do the coating part, you must shake the whole assembly for 20 seconds just enough to make sure all the bullets are wet, but dont wait till all the acetone is all gone-evaporated to the point where you you hear a muffled sound of the bullets bouncing dry in the bucket.at that point,it,s too late.
you must drop the bullets on the baking plate , still wet. then the best way to dry them is with a little 20 dollars fan. you must wait till the bullets are completely dry ...DRYDRYDRY....
in the pre heated oven, you should have an separate thermometer to see if the oven setting is right.400 F is the right temp for cooking hi tek.
10 minutes should do the trick, but sometimes, a little less could be it, depending of the oven used..it is NOT rocket science trust me.
of course, the first few batch must be seen as testing. after the first bake,take one bullet once they're cool enough to be handled safely and do the hammer test. easy. if it,s ok, then you cool them entirely under the fan for half an hour,till they're completely at room temp,and resume the recipe for
a second baking round.
done.
tony..you say you have 6 pounds of the hi tek products in different colors....over here, i have a very, very tough time at finding some...i only have couple onces of the zombie green left,after that,i'm done. the hi tek distributor here has no hi tek for sale....sooo,if you decide to let this go and you decide to get back to PC,i will gladly buy the hi tek you still have .
Last edited by glockfan; 02-05-2018 at 12:45 AM.
Tony.
My oven is a normal domestic wall oven. The only thing I have done to it is remove all the electronics and replace them with a PID to control temp and a timer. The fan is stock standard. same speed as factory spec.
It might just be me. But Not everyone gets the Aussie humour.
Get your domestic oven. coat some bullets and try the bastard!!! That is the only way to find out. Nobody else can do it for you.
FFS... I'm 1/2 a world away and many time zones apart.
If you like the powdercoat, go for it. Personally, I tried it and found it too slow and dirty. bloody powder all over the place. Bloody bullets falling over and having to bake for 20 minutes. Bugger that.
Sell your Hitek powder to Glockfan. I'm sure he will snap it up.
Oh... And Tony... Lighten the **** up... We are trying to help. You're not the first person I have upset....will not be the last....
Last edited by Ausglock; 02-05-2018 at 02:43 AM.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
TonyN,
I have replied to your post in Red as below.
It seems that you have offended quite a few, and it also seems now that I may have been correct about a hidden agenda, and others appear to feel the same way.
I cannot understand, why you want to use Hi-Tek coatings, struggle for a year, and don't just keep using powder coat?
Your actions do not make any sense to me.
Wait, I again may be totally wrong here, I again wonder, if for 12months, your actions/posts were to try and bad mouth the Hi-Tek coating by telling all who listened about your bad experiences????
Question must be asked, do you own or have a business or sell powdered coatings????
I may be wrong here, but the Hi-Tek product is used in some 28 countries by hundreds of thousands of people, and, many in fact had converted from Powder coating and other lubes. I wonder why that is?????
Again I don't understand, why would you buy 6 different coloured Hi-Tek coatings when you cannot make a single one work????
Waste the Hi-Tek ?????, many will be happy to take it off your hands
Last edited by HI-TEK; 02-05-2018 at 03:06 AM.
tony’s problem is that even after following directions His Boolits will not pass the acetone wipe test. That is how he is thinking that he isn’t doing it correctly.
I told him to increase cook time.
He has two thermometers that hang in his oven.
Both are reading the same temp and they are stable.
If increasing the cook time doesn’t solve it then you need to stick with PC
I will buy the remaining unopened containers that you have.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Thanks Hatch,
With instructions provided it is clearly stated, that both the coating and alloy must get to 180C and stay there or above for 3 more minutes to cure correctly. This advice has been posted over and over and over on this site, and was also advised to TonyN many times by several members.
It really does not matter how long it takes to get the load in oven to required temperature. The time taken to get coated alloy load to 180C and keep it there or at higher temperature, all will depend on your oven.
Fan forced ovens work much better and faster, and provide much more even heat distribution and faster heat transfer. Each user has to determine how his or her equipment works and at what point best results can be obtained.
As expressed, my concerns are that whatever TonyN is using simply does not measure up to requirements. He then continues blame the coating for not working.
Simply hanging a thermometer inside oven does not guarantee that what he is reading is correct.
Again, I will explain why I said this.
Many years ago, a commercial caster made a flow through conveyor oven. He placed a tray of projectiles on conveyor. Thermometer inside oven read 200C. When tray emerged after 12 minutes from oven, the centre of tray was not baked, and projectiles at edges of tray were melted. So, temperature variation inside oven was more that 100C from what was displayed on the thermometer.
So reading temperature of air at specific point in the oven is not representative of what is actually happening, especially if inadequate air circulation is the problem or there is over loading of oven where oven cannot cope.
Time of load inside oven, greatly depends on load, ovens ability to provide adequate heat and maintain even heat, to get load to at least 180C.
Every oven is different, even if it same brand. Temperature control can be out plus or minus 50 degrees Celsius or more.
Measuring air at a specific point is not what is required. I as well as many others tried and tried and tried to explain this to TonyN, to no avail.
What seems to be lost is, that we supply coatings with instructions. We don't supply or design ovens, we don't advise people to make electric alterations to ovens so it is annoying to get such comments as witnessed.
Quite frankly (pardon the pun) I am fed up with trying to help when that help is not used or accepted. Conditions of cure is clearly specified. How users get there will depend on equipment used. It is very obvious that FrankN really does not have correct equipment, or that he really wants to make product work, or is he wanting to continue to simply "bad mouth" the product.
The last blog by him appears to have said it all.
Sorry for my rant, but enough is enough.
Maybe Tony has a contaminant on his cast Bullets?
Some type of oil use to lube the sprue plate? Dropping into a dirty old rag that has oil on it?
Dirty container to tumble in?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |