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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #9041
    Boolit Buddy MAGA's Avatar
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    Is it better to use the liquid coating and hardener? or order the powder and mix with acetone?
    Also is one more shelf stable? Or do they both mix back up good after sitting a long time?
    Is either one easier to get good results with?
    Last edited by MAGA; 08-13-2017 at 08:20 PM.

  2. #9042
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    Same. But the powder is easier to mix correctly if you are a no good at maths.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  3. #9043
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    Powder is also cheaper to ship.

  4. #9044
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger442 View Post
    You're right those do look like Ironman colors. Maybe we should contact Stark and see if he needs to coat his armor. Might even get it done free for the endorsement.
    Haha! Maybe so.



    Quote Originally Posted by MAGA View Post
    Is it better to use the liquid coating and hardener? or order the powder and mix with acetone?
    Also is one more shelf stable? Or do they both mix back up good after sitting a long time?
    Is either one easier to get good results with?
    I have been using the powder and I can't see any reason to stop. As far as it sitting around, I don't see much reason to let it sit around, but with that said, whenever I have a little left over I've had it sitting around for a couple weeks and still used it. So long as the acetone isn't evaporating from whatever container you use it should be fine. Saw some folks on youtube mixing in paint cans and sealing them up for future use with good success too. Plus the no good at maths thing fits me pretty well.

  5. #9045
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    Coated 12 or so pounds of lee 356-120TC last night.
    1 ML per pound is just about perfect. 2 coats was near perfection and I went with a third coat as the alloy was a little lean and the bullets were dropping small. I was hoping to bump up the diameter that tiny bit I needed.

    Can't wait to coat my RCBS 44-250K this week.

  6. #9046
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    [QUOTE=popper;4123709]Base dipped in liquid color/catalyst mix only, no acetone. Lube used was BLL. Had problem with BLL only and SOFT alloy leading on first shots. HiTek is enough to prevent initial base gas cutting that the BLL doesn't get blown off.

    Hi Popper,
    Just so I can understand things, you dipped the tail end of cast into Hi-Tek concentrate plus Catalyst, without using diluent solvent. Is that correct?
    How far did you dip tail ends into concentrate mixture?

    Please advise, what is BBL lube? I am not familiar with that product or description.

    Did you dip after you first coated, or did you dip before applying coatings and baking?

    Did you size after all was complete? What was final diameter to bore diameter?

    Can you please elaborate.

    I am wondering what may have been final coating thickness on base that protected the alloy?
    I believe that a mix made from powdered Hi-Tek may also work the same way.

    If coatings can be successful as a replacement to gas checks, I am sure many want to learn from your testing. It will significantly save gas check preparation if just the coating is used instead, and alloy is sized to correct diameter.
    Please advise
    Hi-Tek

  7. #9047
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    BLL is a wax lube that was applied after base coating. I dipped the base in about 1/10". No acetone. Sized after coating and before BLL. The rifle barrel leaded but the alloy is almost pure, very soft. No intention of trying for a GC replacement.
    Whatever!

  8. #9048
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    BLL is a wax lube that was applied after base coating. I dipped the base in about 1/10". No acetone. Sized after coating and before BLL. The rifle barrel leaded but the alloy is almost pure, very soft. No intention of trying for a GC replacement.
    Thanks Popper.
    Would you envisage if you had same result if the soft alloy was Gas checked and coated as well?
    From what I have seen over years, most waxes really cannot stop Leading, especially soft alloys.

    On another track would sizing slightly more over size assist with Leading reductions when using a coated, Gas checked soft Lead alloy?

  9. #9049
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Yes, GC loads worked fine - not the best accuracy but then the alloy is really soft. I was testing alloy, not lube or coating but ran into leading problems on the PB. I don't plan to use the HiTek for GC substitute, just coat the whole boolit. I did notice that the liquid stuff didn't produce any bubbles or rough spots, primarily why I posted.
    Whatever!

  10. #9050
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    I got my new mold up and running tonight. No lube groove bullets are way easier to cast.

    Last time i baked hitek i had just fitted a pid to my convection oven. The coating was flakey compared to the previous time with no pid. The temp seemed consistent with both.

    Any idea where to start to fix it?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #9051
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    Go back to the way it worked before. If it's not broke, sometimes trying to fix it is counterproductive.

  12. #9052
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    [QUOTE=dansedgli;4129559]I got my new mold up and running tonight. No lube groove bullets are way easier to cast.

    Last time i baked hitek i had just fitted a pid to my convection oven. The coating was flakey compared to the previous time with no pid. The temp seemed consistent with both.

    Any idea where to start to fix it?


    Just a rough idea on what is different, and based on your no PID and PID control is, that before PID you may have had much slower heat response from temperature sensor, and heating/baking was slower. With PID, heat recovery seems more quick, and from your descriptions "flaky" with PID, my other guess is that coating was not dry with first coat.

  13. #9053
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Well another trip to the range and have verified under an inch group that I had last time. One group was four shots in just over 1/2" with a flyer. Total group was about 2" with the flyer. Had my scope tuned to the load this time and all were right on. My reading on the speed say the flyer was probably due to a bullet speed about 300 fps slower than the rest. SD for the four was 10.1. I'm not sure the cause, yet, for the flyer. May have been something I did during loading. But this has been the kick I'm on lately. Getting rid of the flyer.

    I have been convinced about Hi Tek in my .308 for a long time. But this idea of deburring the flash hole and uniforming the primer pocket was something new. While recommended by several knowledgeable sources, I didn't want to use it on all of my cases without some personal proof, it's a permanent thing. And it works like weight segregating the cases before loading. Which is something I remember being suggested to me back when I first started hand loading. Just didn't understand the need for doing it. The need is it tightens groups. Still a newbie at this. Something to learn or remember all of the time.

    I haven't cast and coated in a while and I have some of the copper enriched lead left. It's going into the .308 mold that made the bullets for the under an inch groups. Going to be my hunting bullet.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  14. #9054
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    I got my new mold up and running tonight. No lube groove bullets are way easier to cast.

    Last time i baked hitek i had just fitted a pid to my convection oven. The coating was flakey compared to the previous time with no pid. The temp seemed consistent with both.

    Any idea where to start to fix it?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Accurate mold??? What size and weight?
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  15. #9055
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Accurate mold??? What size and weight?
    Looks like my 147Y

  16. #9056
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Accurate mold??? What size and weight?
    168zk Trev. Need to catch Cloughy but dont have the budget.

  17. #9057
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    168zk Trev. Need to catch Cloughy but dont have the budget.
    Oh... you mean this one?



    I have a 4 cavity hand mould here if you want another...
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  18. #9058
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    Yep, but the quality wont be as good because my care factor is low and im the only customer.

    But these are free so i wont complain.

    Thanks for the offer, i am ok with just the 1 mold for now.

    I am still learning so dont want to get ahead of myself. I did 2 big batches for my 45 last year and hadnt done anymore casting until last week.

  19. #9059
    Boolit Buddy MAGA's Avatar
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    Couple more questions...

    Fixing to order some Hi- Tek supercoat powder, is there any colors that work better or give problems? I kinda like the black.
    Also baking do I need to use a wire mesh type tray/basket? I have a little solid aluminum tray that came with the toaster oven and was gonna line it with nonstick aluminum foil but if mesh is better I will do that!
    And just to confirm once the coating is dry dump into tray and kinda spread out right? No need to stand each individual bullet up to bake correct?

    Many thanks!!

  20. #9060
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAGA View Post
    Couple more questions...

    Fixing to order some Hi- Tek supercoat powder, is there any colors that work better or give problems? I kinda like the black.
    Also baking do I need to use a wire mesh type tray/basket? I have a little solid aluminum tray that came with the toaster oven and was gonna line it with nonstick aluminum foil but if mesh is better I will do that!
    And just to confirm once the coating is dry dump into tray and kinda spread out right? No need to stand each individual bullet up to bake correct?

    Many thanks!!
    It has been my experience that all of the coatings will work well I handguns. If I were going to use it in a rifle at normal to high rifle pressures I would use one of the coatings that include the metallic. Not that the others will not work, because I have used some non metallic in my rifles without any problems. I have lost track of all of the different blacks. But I believe the Black 1035 has a metallic component and there are others. Joe or Trevor might chime in here. And it might depend on which the seller here in the US has on hand. Donnie can answer that one.

    Recommended that you use something to bake your bullets on that has a lot of perforations to promote air flow around bullets in the convection oven. I use wire trays. I think that Trevor has been using some type of perforated aluminum or stainless tray. Ebay has metal sheets with a lot of perforations. But the ones that come with the ovens do not have enough holes to promote proper circulation of the air. And please no aluminum foil need all the air circulation.

    A toaster oven without convection (or fans circulating the air) can work. Not recommended. It's just that the bullets come out cooked at several different temps. So don't expect the same result from bullet to bullet on curing or color. Some wipe test might fail on some bullets and pass on others if cooked at the recommended time. Or you could just cook them an extra few minutes. That will darken the color on the ones that cook the hottest. Which will not matter with black colors. They should be black anyway. And you can cook a long time if you want. I haven't found the time that will cause a failure. I suppose there is a temp long after the lead melts???? I actually accidentally cooked in an oven that fan was not on during bake. Came out several different shades of the color I was looking for. Shot OK with no leading.

    Yeah, not necessary to spend the time to stand on end , almost impossible with small caliber in a wire tray, just spread them out to dry. I have baked mine both ways with no discernible difference. After the coat before you bake them just spread let them dry. You can use wire drying tray specifically for that purpose. Or you can do what I do when I'm a bit lazy. Just dump them on the cooking tray to dry. Some guys, including myself sometimes, are placing trays on top of the oven to heat up and make sure they are dry before baking. Not absolutely necessary but they do need to be dry before baking.

    Welcome to cooking boolets!
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check