May just be my imagination. But the powders with metallic seem to settle quicker than the liquid version did. But always have shaken both for five minutes (an Ausglock suggestion from a long time ago) during the mixing or before first use after sitting a few days and about a minute for second or third coats in a coating session.
Those are some fine looking bullets. I'm jealous. Magnified the photo and they still look better than most of the ones out of my coating sessions.
Last edited by Avenger442; 08-03-2017 at 02:26 PM.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Avenger, your observations may be correct.
I am aware, that liquid versions do build viscosity, so a suspension may be more stable and slower to settle. Powdered coatings, not being in solvent systems may be much more stable with viscosity build. Both powders and liquids use same ingredients, and the only thing missing with Powders is solvent.
With posted coated projectiles, I have been very impressed with the great quality of coated projectiles that people have produced. Great work...
snscasting,it just dawned on me who you are. I used to buy bullets from you until I started casting my own. They were top notch quality. Welcome aboard!
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
You will be a good source yourself. I'll bet you have coated a bunch.
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
I have, mostly by accident, trial, error, been using a thinner mix than the instructions. I have to tumble them a little longer but I like the extra time and I roll them onto my tray the very second the coating starts to thicken. I don't wait for them to be sticky (that change in sound while tumbling) but I also make sure to wait long enough that the coating isn't runny - there is that perfect moment in between. And if I miss the window i just splash a little acetone in my container and start over with the tumbling. For me the coating ends up looking smoother. I use the 10 minutes while the other tray is in the oven to first hit them with the heat gun - immediately after I drop them just to flash off any remaining acetone - and then let the fan blow on them while they sit waiting for the other batch to come out. I know I waste some material this way, but I got the smallest container of black and to me that's still highly cost effective - 10 thousand 9mm bullets or so by the time I use what's left now. I bought the medium size container of cherry this time and it arrived yesterday so hopefully some red bullets to show you guys soon.
It seems like everybody develops their own style. I think some of it has to do with what part of the country or should I say what part of the world you are living in. Big differences in weather conditions. Your bullets look great,if they shoot good with no leading sounds like you have your system down pat. It is fun to experiment though!
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
Been experimenting with some really soft alloy in 30/30 & BLL. Works OK with GC but fails PB, so. I coated the bases with the ole liquid dark green. First try was dabbing a light coat with a brush. Then I just tried dipping the bases in mix without acetone. Bubbles from first coat/cook, none with just dipping. Interesting. Didn't test wipe or smash but no problems in sizing. Range report when the heat and rain slow down.
Attachment 201140
Whatever!
I just want to make sure I understand what you are trying to find out. Are you trying to see if the coating can protect the base from pressure? Heat? I mean the coating is meant to be just a lube. Granted, a high temperature lube. But still a lube.
Based on my test with no gas check and about the same pressures I usually shoot them the .308s left some lead and were not accurate. I would think that the coating would not help like a gas check. I was going to go back and shoot some of those with a much lighter load but never got around to it. Think I've talked myself out of it now. Why a 1800 FPS .308? The only reason I tried it in the first place was to answer a question asked by a guy shooting Garrand or maybe it was M-14. He was wanting to know if he could shoot plain base with the coating. Answer was no I guess since both need pressure to cycle.
It just came to me. You powder coat. Why don't you also powder coat a few bases and see if that will work, too. I would be interested to see if it can be used like a gas check. I don't really like installing them. Might be a reason to start doing some PC.
Let us know what you find out. Hope it works.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I would think that the coating would not help like a gas check. That is what I'm going to find out. An experiment for my really soft alloy PB in the Marlin 30/30 (Pb/Cu/Zn hopefully to 1800 fps). Posted here as I was surprised at the coating by just dipping in the color/cat only mix. Did OK with cooking & sizing - sticks good. Too much trouble to PC just the base.
shoot plain base with the coating I run a 145gr PB to 2100 fps in BO, haven't tried it in the AR10. It is not a soft alloy.
Whatever!
[QUOTE=Avenger442;4117983]I just want to make sure I understand what you are trying to find out. Are you trying to see if the coating can protect the base from pressure? Heat? I mean the coating is meant to be just a lube. Granted, a high temperature lube. But still a lube.
Avenger,
The Hi-Tek acts like a lube and also a heat shield to an extent.
We already know, the coatings significantly reduces heat transfer rates, and heat transfer rates significantly are reduced when thickness of coatings are increased.
On the bases, where heat and pressure occurs, it can be theorised, that the coating only has to survive long enough whilst in the barrel to reflect away heat from alloy.
As far as I know, no one has ever worked out just how much coating film thickness can work to act as a gas check in various load and calibre conditions .
As Far as I can determine, gas checks seem to spread out heat by conduction and even out pressure evenly on the rear of alloy, and with gas check alloy edge "spreading", then seems to seal edges to stop gas cutting.
If we reverse ideas a little, if the Hi-Tek does not conduct heat, and reflects it instead, when alloy "spreads" at the rear, this should seal bore at the end, and, as heat is being reflected, the possibility of coating protecting the alloy should also increase. But by how much, it is a good guess. I suppose the only way to find out is try and see.
Hi-Tek
Hi Joe. I asked you but did the experiment before an answer. The liquid green coating doesn't appear to out gas and cause bubbles without the acetone.
Whatever!
Thanks Popper,
I was just thinking (that is dangerous), I wonder if the powdered versions are made into a sticky paste consistency with MEK or Acetone, and bases dipped, how would such brew work after drying and baking?
All coatings should produce similar outgassing properties, Solvent based systems may give more outgassing due to moisture absorption entrapment.
I assume everyone that visits this thread has donated to the gunloads funding drive??????
I have. This is a far too valuable resource to be let disappear.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Like I said, my experiment with plain base was not necessarily a good one since the foot per second was around 2500. That means the pressure was well over what a plain base bullet at around 12-14 BHN (as I remember) would probably take with any type of lube or protection other than gas check. They did have three coats of Hi Tek. Looks like 1800 fps could work. That was what I was going to shoot for in the rounds I was using next. Just got tied up with the fascination of 1" groups. And of course my Granddaughters love of burning my gun powder.
dikman; I was thinking the same thing. But as I remember the mixture of the liquid components in older version of Hi Tek is fairly thin so it might not build up a thick coat dipping.
Based on what Joe said Popper may have found a new use for Hi Tek. Like I said hope it works.
Popper I was thinking through what you said about too much trouble to PC bases and I can't come up with a way that would be simple. But I don't do PC. Something with holes the same size as the bullet. Bullet stuck through it with the bases exposed. Would have to be somewhat rigid and supported underneath?????? Your right, too much trouble. Not near as easy as dipping.
Talked to the guy that runs the range across the road from where I live. I collect range lead there sometimes but have never shot there due to the fees. Reason for the trip was he had talked earlier about a 300 yard range. Which might change my mind about fee. He still doesn't have one. But he was interested in shooting some of the bullets with Hi Tek in his .45. Another customer? But I am not turning my hobby into a business!!!! Those may be famous last words.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Don't want to wander off topic, just a quick question then back to coating chat. Would hi-tek also stick to aluminum? I make these electronic cigarettes "mods" (I'm five years free of cigs and two years a cancer survivor, yay!!) I make these out of diecast aluminum project boxes, openings cut with files then brush finished. It hit me tonight, wonder if hi-tek would work on these?
Be careful what you wish for!
HITEK sticks to copper. Maybe try a piece of scrap and see.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |