simple Hi-Tek coating

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Avenger442;4034085]Joe
Want you to know that I'm not asking for another color. But I suppose a white or clear color is not possible? Was just thinking that if there was a white we might be able to lighten up some of the dark colors. Like on a color wheel. And if there was a clear you could do some different adjustments.

Avenger, all whites turn out various shades of yellow to tan. Clear transparent coating is a honey yellow, and turns darker with extended bake time, and at higher temperatures.
Adjustments/mixtures, generally do not work, and are not predictable. I have had same ideas some time ago, but ended up with unexpected strange results and colours.
Some are simply not mixable and are not compatible. Sorry.
I tried that approach with every shade of Blue known to man. Had no good results. The ones that appeared OK, all went either extremely dark or dark Green and some ended up Black.
I have heard of people mixing all types of colours and ended up with OK colours.

[Avenger442]

[QUOTE=HI-TEK;4034121]

Joe
Want you to know that I'm not asking for another color. But I suppose a white or clear color is not possible? Was just thinking that if there was a white we might be able to lighten up some of the dark colors. Like on a color wheel. And if there was a clear you could do some different adjustments.

Avenger, all whites turn out various shades of yellow to tan. Clear transparent coating is a honey yellow, and turns darker with extended bake time, and at higher temperatures.
Adjustments/mixtures, generally do not work, and are not predictable. I have had same ideas some time ago, but ended up with unexpected strange results and colours.
Some are simply not mixable and are not compatible. Sorry.
I tried that approach with every shade of Blue known to man. Had no good results. The ones that appeared OK, all went either extremely dark or dark Green and some ended up Black.
I have heard of people mixing all types of colours and ended up with OK colours.

I figured it was a long shot. Pun intended.
I guess you are still looking at other chemicals you can combine with the coating? R&D never stops.

[Grmps]

Trevor,
A while ago you promised us detailed videos of the complete process you use to hand-coat and machine coat Hi-Tek.
With you being a factory Hi-Tek tester I'm sure we could all learn from the videos and they would be a great reference tool for new coaters.

[HI-TEK]

Trevor,
A while ago you promised us detailed videos of the complete process you use to hand-coat and machine coat Hi-Tek.
With you being a factory Hi-Tek tester I'm sure we could all learn from the videos and they would be a great reference tool for new coaters.

Grmps,
That is a great idea. I believe that several people had offered such video methods, but I am aware of only a couple.
I do however see a possible problem, as Ausglock is a perfectionist, and his set up may be far more than what average home user/caster/coater would set up to do their casts.
Ausglock, has his testing so precise and reproducible, that each test can be matched over and over again and reproduced with his equipment and pass or fail results can be relied upon. The products he makes and supplies, are in great demand, as users can rely on that reproducible quality aspects for performance.
When other methods or equipment is used/adopted, the methods and results as obtained by Ausglock, may only supply a guideline of what product should look like with an ideal set up.
However, you are correct, a video type instruction would be of great service and assistance, as viewing instead of reading, is far better as viewer can see immediately what is happening.

[dikman]

I mentioned earlier about the colour variation in my last batch of coatings, well I got curious and did another batch today, using my usual 10 mins. Same results (olive colour) the only thing I can think of is this batch of mixed coating is probably 12 months old so I'm guessing it changes a bit as it ages? I also tried some Gunmetal (same age) with interesting results. When I first started using the Gunmetal it always came out dark green at these settings, and to get the actual Gunmetal colour I had to crank the temp up to 140C plus. This time I got what I consider close to my expectations of a gunmetal colour, using my "normal" settings. The "aging" process, if that's what is happening, is adding another variable to the product.
Most interesting.

[Grmps]

dikman,
Am I missing something mate, you said crank the temperature UP to 140C? The temp needs to be 200C in the middle of the shelf you bake on. I believe Joe said hi tek will darken with age but still function well. Gunmetal coming out green is undercooking. Double check the oven temperature with a thermometer set in the middle of the shelf you bake on.

[HI-TEK]

dikman,
Am I missing something mate, you said crank the temperature UP to 140C? The temp needs to be 200C in the middle of the shelf you bake on. I believe Joe said hi tek will darken with age but still function well. Gunmetal coming out green is undercooking. Double check the oven temperature with a thermometer set in the middle of the shelf you bake on.

Grmps.
Right on.
I have had to twice re-test the Gunmetal, after receiving public criticism about that colour not working as advertised. Each re-test confirmed that product was OK. Re test results were posted. Results were ignored.
Colour changes, with that specific coating requires good temperature availability and control. In the oven, coated alloy must get to at least 180C and held there for at least 3 minutes longer thereafter. Having oven at 200C, only speeds up baking process. Poor air circulation, guarantees, that alloy is not getting to required temperatures.
I have had commercial casters "fast cure" at about 240C in about 4 minutes, in super high air velocity circulation ovens. This method is only suitable to speed up commercial production rates and this requires very excellent controls and retention times to ensure even colour production from batch to batch.

Darkening of coating liquid mixtures will occur. That should not affect performance.
From what I understand, if the Gunmetal after bake remains Green, or dark green, it is not processed correctly or at correct conditions.
Aging of liquid mixture will not produce a Green or Dark green coating, but age darkening will in fact help to obtaining the finished dark colour.

[Ausglock]

Yeah. Coating Vid. On my list of things to do.
Consistent results are from consistent process and appropriate equipment with repeatability.
I learnt early on that benchtop ovens, as bought, are poor in offering consistency of Temp control.
I now have 4 of these that have had the thermostat changed out for a bulb type thermostat. These are set at 195Deg C and all bake at 12 minutes. There are 2 ovens the same brand and 2 different brands. 2 have had rockwool insulation added around the oven enclosure. 2 haven't. All work fine for baking one tray each of 2.5KG of alloy.

See what I'm getting at here???? No matter how well insulated or good (or bad) your airflow is, Temp control is King, with Time a close second. I built a digital timer for around $20 from ebay parts. It is set at 12 minutes and sounds a beeper when time is up. I religiously change trays at this time. Not 30 seconds later, not a minute later....I can run these 4 ovens with consistent colour from all ovens.

Now... for the modified wall oven. I can bake 2 trays (5KG total) in 7 1/2 minutes. 3 trays (7.5Kg total) in 8 1/2 minutes.
All this comes from trial and error.

The gunmetal works as listed. no if's. Not buts. the colour is correct from 3 different samples send for verification testing.
If it isn't working for you, YOU are the problem. Check your process!

Aged coating. I have a bottle of un-mixed powdered Gold 1035 that has been sitting in a sunny place in my shed for over 12 months. It has turned orange from the sun exposure due to HITEK Joe sending samples in clear plastic jars. I have mixed this and coated with it.
The bullets are the exact same baked colour as fresh Gold 1035 coating. All pass wipe and smash tests.
This stuff is very forgiving.........Provided YOU do YOUR part.

[dikman]

Sorry guys, typo, I meant 240+. I'm far from an expert on this stuff, of course, but other than my very first batch which flaked every other batch I've made, regardless of colour, has passed all tests and worked, so I figure I must be doing something right. And yes, I have found that within reason it is quite forgiving. I only mentioned this out of curiosity. The fact that I have just done four batches with this ZG, and had consistent, repeatable results must count for something. It has been stored in a cupboard, out of the sun, although it did get a bit warm in the shed in Summer. Thinking about it, it must be older than 12 months 'cos it's gone through two Summers now (losing track of time ).

This is not a complaint about the stuff (far from it) I'm just trying to come up with a reason for the variation.

[Ausglock]

Little bit of information for you all.
Did a bit of testing over the weekend.
Was trying to sort out the issue of touch marks on bullets after baking.
1st coat was 4mls to 2.5Kg.
second coat 6mls to 2.5Kg.
This resulted in a far shinier finish and no visible touch marks.
time and temp remained the same as did the mix ratio.

Touch marks are a sign of too much coating being used.
Also trying to use bullet count rather than weight.
100 to 135gn bullets, use 300 per tray and use 4mls 1st coat and 6mls 2nd coat.
145 to 170gn bullets use 250 per tray with 6mls each coat.
185 to 240gn bullets use 200 per tray with 6mls each coat.
It can get confusing if you don't keep a track of it...

[Grmps]

2.5 kg = 5.51156 lb

I read in several places a while back that the rule of thumb was 1 mil per pound and either Trevor or Joe said to back off on amount of coating on the first bake to improve adhesion and insure a smoother finish.

If my memory is correct HiTek Joe said the 1 coat will protect the bullet but-- is ugly in most instances , that's why most go 2 coats.

[flyingrhino]

Hello Gents,

I came across this thread while looking for an alternative to lubing for a specific boolit & gun.

I am interested in seeing if any of you are having success with the Hi-Tek coating and Lee TL309-230-5R in a .300 BlackOut rifle/SBR???...I am especially interested to see if any of you are having success with all of the previous and using a sealed 7.62 suppressor.

I am quite alright with continuing to lube my pistol rounds as I am currently doing.

If this process allows me to shoot the Lee TL309 at subsonic speeds through my YHM can (with accuracy), then I am most interested.

Secondary to this, if the Hi-Tek also allows above average velocity and accuracy in my .223 boolits...that would definitely seal the deal.

If any of you have experience with the Hi-Tek, subsonic boolits through a can in .300 BlackOut, please share.
I would request that you hold off on a fevered sales pitch..."re-read the thread" type comments.

I am looking for specific facts, not rhetoric.


Keep The High Ground,


G

I'm using Hitek coated 220's in my 300 SBR and they work great.

[HI-TEK]

Just Call me ....G

Quoted "If any of you have experience with the Hi-Tek, subsonic boolits through a can in .300 BlackOut, please share.
I would request that you hold off on a fevered sales pitch..."re-read the thread" type comments.

I am looking for specific facts, not rhetoric."

I am most surprised at your above post. You ask for assistance, and then you suggest that people on this site are nothing but "fevered sales pitch" persons. No one is trying to sell you any thing. I have found, that folks on this site, FOR FREE, are happy to offer/share practical advice based on their experience. If you consider that being a "sales pitch" then it is not appropriate for you to seek their advice.
If you are thinking that folk on this site are sales people, and, if you interested in trying the product/s, in specific applications, it would be more appropriate for you to contact supplier and discuss your needs. If satisfied with suppliers replies, then buy it and use it, and, if you are not satisfied with suppliers reply, don't buy it.
Sorry mate, but no one is twisting your arms up your back, forcing you to purchase any product.

[benellinut]

Yup, I had to chuckle, I thought the lack of responses was fitting.

[Warhead]

Must have been a true Operator operating operationally on that one!

Now I have a stupid question, witch is the brightest of the reds made, Brick Red, Candy Apple Red, or Red Copper?

Thanks in advanced!

[HI-TEK]

Must have been a true Operator operating operationally on that one!

Now I have a stupid question, witch is the brightest of the reds made, Brick Red, Candy Apple Red, or Red Copper?

Thanks in advanced!

You have forgotten Red 122(Crimson type red) Blush Red Copper (Pinkish Metallic glittery), DD Red (flesh pink type) as well. My two cents worth is the brightest would be possibly Red 122 and Brick Red, followed by Blush Red Copper.
But final choice is what is in the eye of the beholder as being OK...

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Must have been a true Operator operating operationally on that one!

Now I have a stupid question, witch is the brightest of the reds made, Brick Red, Candy Apple Red, or Red Copper?

Thanks in advanced!

Brick Red is the brightest Red I have in stock. It is what Acme Bullets and SNS Casting use.

[eljefeoz]

Anyone coated regular, jacketed pills with HITEK?
I tried some on 55gr .224 and they came out a bit paler than when they went in, while the cast came out all fine ( yeah, it was a mixed batch)

[HI-TEK]

Anyone coated regular, jacketed pills with HITEK?
I tried some on 55gr .224 and they came out a bit paler than when they went in, while the cast came out all fine ( yeah, it was a mixed batch)

Good question.
Coating Jacketed and plated alloys were done years ago here in Aus. by commercial caster.
They worked perfectly, and no Copper fouling. All it did is raise costs for ammo.
Copper can react with coating which may alter colour. As long as you got good bonding and it leaves no residues in barrel, all is well.

[Ausglock]

I have some 123gn HP Tigershark plated here.
Might coat 250 and see how they look.
Watch this space....