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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #8021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marvin View Post
    i haven't been doing it for very long and i had the same problems as you. but once i read the instructions and followed them i made great bullets, it's hard not to add more coating for that first batch as the first coating looks to thin to work but after the second coating it look good and shoots better
    Thanks for your post. You are right with your advice.

    I am convinced, that there seems a concept or idea, of "thick is good" and works better.
    But those thoughts are unfortunately not correct. You only need enough Hi-Tek film to separate bore and alloy during resident time inside barrel.

    As I have said many, many, many times previously, if done correctly, one thin blotchy coat should work. Second or additional coats, simply improve cosmetic appearances and should cover most imperfections left with thin first coat.
    For some applications, a third very thin coats may be required, but that is not the norm.

    Looking at it another way, if first coat fails tests, don't bother to re-cook, it wont fix adhesion failure problems, as coating will not re-activate and bond to alloy with additional cooking.
    Do not then re-coat, to try and fix bad first coat, as applying second coat, wont fix first coat failure problems.

    I am wondering now, after having seen this sort of problems arise a few times, if may be I should have suggested a 10g/100mls mixture, to be used as a primer coat, using the same 6mls to 250 bullets as the first coat.
    Then, after all is OK with this first coat, user then apply the 20g/100mls as second final coat.
    My reasoning is, that if first thin coat bonds OK to alloy, and passes all tests, then subsequent coats will bond to previous bonded coat, and finish would be functional, and finish would be also pleasing to users eye.

  2. #8022
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    Marvin I'm 1.5 hours away from you. I'm in Ft.Wayne In.

  3. #8023
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    Thanks guys.....

    This is how I did it.

    100 ML acetone to 20 grams powder
    1ML to 1 lb bullets
    Shake in container for 30 sec. The sound changes.
    Oven at 375 even 400 maid them darken more then I feel they should. 12 to 15 min. I would air cool them for 30 min. Once I pulled from oven I did a wipe test that if I pushed harder then just barely putting pressure they would show lead. The smash test would flake some.

    I'll bug you guys till I get this down lol..

  4. #8024
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    I'll try you guys method and post pics.

  5. #8025
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    So 200C would be 400degrees feh.?

  6. #8026
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    What is your alloy??
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  7. #8027
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyN View Post
    Thanks guys.....

    This is how I did it. My replies HI-Tek

    100 ML acetone to 20 grams powder OK that seems fine
    1ML to 1 lb bullets OK That seems fine
    Shake in container for 30 sec. The sound changes. May be not OK. You only have to shake until you see alloys coated, 10-15 seconds is plenty. I suspect that you shook too long.
    How long did you dry. How did you determine if coatings were dry before cooking?

    Oven at 375 even 400 maid them darken more then I feel they should. 12 to 15 min.Baking temperature and time at this stage is not important, as you don't know if what you were cooking was totally dry. Coating will darken with cooking at elevated and prolong conditions but extra heating it does not stop adhesion, only moisture will.
    I would air cool them for 30 min. NOt important
    Once I pulled from oven I did a wipe test that if I pushed harder then just barely putting pressure they would show lead. The smash test would flake some. This should be telling you that you did not dry adequately before cooking, and or had too much coating on first coat, or both.

    I'll bug you guys till I get this down lol..
    You can bug away all you like, but please take on board suggestion supplied so far.

  8. #8028
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    I'll for sure give feedback. My lead is WW and water Quench. I make sure it's a clean bucket.
    Will these shoot great in Glocks?

  9. #8029
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    Bloody Wheel weights.

    They really are Mystery Metal these days.
    Not like the old days when WW was reasonably uniform in hardness.

    I really think anyone having problems should at least try a few KGs of Hardball alloy to rule out Alloy issues.

    200Deg C is 392 Deg F (Google)
    Some who use WW say that the hardening of Water quench is removed when the coating is baked.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #8030
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    Ok I'll try 400 degrees for 12 minutes. If I don't quench there around 13 BRN. Would the coating protect this soft lead? Will these not lead with a glock barrel? I'll get pictures when I try this.

    So you guys thinking my coating is to thick? I'm doing 1 ML per 1 pound bullets.

  11. #8031
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    I water quenched thousands of bullets in the 1990's and what minerals or other contaminants that are in the water is now on your bullets and is most likely why the coating is failing.

    I use the Hardball alloy and have zero failure rate.

    I am doing a test with 1 coat of Gun Metal mixed 20/100 so far on leading in my 1911 and PPQ 45.

  12. #8032
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    Tony, if I'm understanding correctly, it sounds like you are going directly from coating to baking and then doing a 30 minute cooling process. There should be a drying process of the coating before putting in the oven to cook. The acetone has to properly evaporate before cooking. Maybe I read it wrong.
    I put mine under a fan for at least 20 minutes and set the tray on top of the oven for about 10 minutes to preheat the bullets. You'll eventually get the hang of it and it won't be so difficult.
    I am shooting .380, 9mm, and .45acp all out of Glocks with no leading.

  13. #8033
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    I coat let dry 30 min then bake 15 min. Then let cool then coat and wait 30 min then bake again..

    I'll cast without water quenching and see how it goes.

  14. #8034
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    Ok, question, 6ml to 2kg, no matter bullet weight right? Because I couldn't lift 200-250 of these bullets I am playing with right now.

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  15. #8035
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    I'm doing 5 lbs bullets with 5 ML powder mix.

  16. #8036
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregP42 View Post
    Ok, question, 6ml to 2kg, no matter bullet weight right? Because I couldn't lift 200-250 of these bullets I am playing with right now.

    Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
    That is correct. Bullet weight doesn't matter, so long as you use 6mls to every 2.5Kg of alloy.
    If you want to, you can drop back to 5mls for a thinner first coat to try and ensure first coat sticking correctly.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  17. #8037
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    Another question before I try this.
    Is a 5 gallon bucket to big for 250 bullets? When I coat the bullets I would shake the bullets for 30 seconds till I heard the thumping sound like you are talking about. So 10 to 15 seconds instead? There is a lot of liqued if I did it for 15seconds .

  18. #8038
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	185616Is what I use. A different one for each color. And they're cheap too.
    I snap the lid on to keep them from swirling out but take it off after about 20 seconds and swirl until the sound changes. The experts say no lid but it works for me.

  19. #8039
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    I always did and thought you where suposed to do 30 seconds each coating.

  20. #8040
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyN View Post
    Another question before I try this.
    Is a 5 gallon bucket to big for 250 bullets? When I coat the bullets I would shake the bullets for 30 seconds till I heard the thumping sound like you are talking about. So 10 to 15 seconds instead? There is a lot of liqued if I did it for 15seconds .
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svu6oHcd7d0

    old video but may give you an insight.
    Mike.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check