REX C100 PID with 40amp SSR and 150mm K sensor on ebay for like $30Aud.
Cheap. easy to setup and wire up.
|
   
   
|
|
REX C100 PID with 40amp SSR and 150mm K sensor on ebay for like $30Aud.
Cheap. easy to setup and wire up.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
If you pick up a old wall oven they also have a griller in them, steal that element and fit into the bottom of the oven and run BOTH elements.
Hi speed heat recovery is preferred. When the PID decides your oven is below temp, you don't want it to take a long time back to 200.
Wall ovens are extra insulated, because the are designed to go INTO wood enclosures.
On the first day I used 3 trays of uncoated casts, set the PID to self-learn. Then cycled the 3 trays one at a time, until the PID got its act together.
This way I had no under or over cooked casts that needed remelting while the PID set its parameters.
Metal blocks, clay pavers or anything that absorbs heat, and releases heat also acts like a temperature stabilizer. And is free.
All hints and tips that allow you to turn out successful, repeatable, consistent results.
Mike.
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
The Rex C100 is the cheapest PID available (prices go up from there, depending on the make) but is perfectly adequate. All of the PIDs I've seen on ebay will operate from 100v to over 240v so no problems using them here. Some Rex C100's only have a relay output, you need one that will operate an SSR, however it's easy to do what I did - I opened it up, desoldered the internal relay, replaced it with wire links and it now operates an SSR with no problems.Originally Posted by Grmps
There are plenty of posts about building them under the Casting Equipment section of the forum.
I posted new pics on my website www.hi-performancebulletcoatings.com
If you go the color chart and click on a color square it will pull up a picture of bullets we coated in that color including the new Black K15 and Bronze 502
Zombie Green is only color missing at this point.
Can somebody steer me in the right direction as I am trying to find Hi-Tek in Australia
Why don't you send a PM . If you also supply a PM please supply a phone and email number
Thanks
really eager to try this, now that I've cast a few. PC was the entire reason I even considered casting. So I have a few questions before I place an order. I read about 100 of these 400 pages (phew my eyes hurt). Which is better / which may mean easier / better results. The powder or liquid option?
Seems more colors for the powder. How many bullets with I get covered with 3.5 oz vs 7oz?
Got any sea/sky blue for the wife? or other colors not shown on the site?
First, please forget any shades of Blue with Hi-Tek coatings, liquid or powdered versions.
Liquids are same coatings as powders, but liquids are solvent based coatings in a two pack system, and powders are required to be mixed with solvent by user before using them..
PLEASE NOTE, Hi-Tek powders are not for powder coating. All Hi-Tek powders require solubilising in solvent prior application uses.
Coverage, (I can quote you metric details) 500g of powder, used as two coats, should coat about 40,000 to 50,000 and will depend on user.
Wow...roughly 9k from the 3.5 oz powder. Nice....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I coated 1200 .45acp 230gr with two coats and only used 1 tablespoon of powder to 55-60ml of acetone. There was about a fifth of the mixture left. A little goes a long way. My first order was the 7oz. size of a couple of powders, whereas the next order was the 3.5oz size. I think you may get at least 15-20K on a 3.5oz bottle. The powder is really easy.
probably more than i'll ever needbut just ordered my Zombie Green and the Gun Metal. Can't wait to try this out. Tomorrow i'll probably go cast some in preparation. Need to find a cheapo toaster oven now and make a screen for it.
probably more than i'll ever need
LOL LOL ,..... now, the coating addiction begins.....The trouble is, once you have coated all your casts, you the have to cast again, and again. Them go out shoot them all, and start again. It is fun....
Yea well.....who knew back in about 2010 my simple memory of the smell of the m16 and so I wanted an AR would turn into collecting Ww2 rifles which I was very versed on for my age as a child , which lead to reloading since it's cheaper (yea so then faster with giraud yaddi yadda) which led to buy it if its crazy stupid cheap even if I don't need it just for trade. Which has lead to smelting 130 lbs of Coww and some range lead recently my first cast and now this......wasn't this all for cost savings?
Seems more like an investment at this point. lol I'll never shoot it all, well maybe if I stop buying once I retire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When you mix the powder with the acetone, let it stand for about 1/2 hour with a few shakes over that time. helps the reaction.
When you first mix, you can feel it get warm as the reaction takes place.
Remember....6mls to 2.5Kg of alloy. Doesn't matter if you are coating .22 or .45 bullets. always use weight of alloy, not number of bullets.
Also...FFS please don't try and coat 10 or 20 bullets and then cry cause it doesn't work.
Minimum to coat and bake is 2.5Kg...
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
2 oz to 5 1/2 pounds. Got it. Can't wait to try this out.
I use mostly 2 cavity so I'll cast for several calibers at once and make sure to make that much
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scorpius
Just like you one of the reasons I got into casting was it was cheaper. But the more I cast the more I shoot so it probably is not as much as I had calculated at first. I have also started the addiction Joe mentioned and it's not just the casting for guns. I have now started buying guns so I can cast another caliber. And then there is making black powder and the black powder cartridge, which I never had an interest in before. And the rabbit hole gets deeper.
You said you were doing several calibers what are they?
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
For casting so far molds for 7.62x54r,x39, 303 Brit, .32 acp, 8mm and 30 carbine. (Only casted for the last two so far but have molds for the others)
As for reloading don't cast for these yet. 9 and 10mm, 30-30, 223/556, 270, 308, 30-06, 7.5x55 Swiss, 7.35 carcano.
And I haven't hit black powder yet, but I'm sure it'll come. I've fondled a few powders before just don't have any need for it yet. Would be cool to have something like a flintlock rifle though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scorpius
Yeah, I never intended to get into it. But I ended up with a couple of black powder rifles by some buying and trading. Still, I was going to sell them and someone got me interested in making my own black powder.......... and on it goes. Hitek coated .44s have worked good in the 44 mag cases with the black powder.
Didn't you say you have been doing some PC? So you already have the convection oven you have been using for it, right? So all you need is the powder, some acetone, couple of bowls to tumble in (one for each color), I use Cool Whip bowls, and some screens to dry on and bake.
Your going to love this stuff. Small learning curve. I think pistols are a little easier to work with than rifle. But I've only tried 38, 45 and 44. I cast mostly .308 and .44 for rifle. Have shot a few .223 with no problem. And do have some .303 cast and coated but have never loaded any. My sporterized WW II .303 Enfield has the typical case stretch problem. So have not tried to reloaded them. I'm about to start casting and coating for the 45-70. Ahhh sweet addiction.
Joe
I forgot, does the Gun Metal have the metal particles in it? If it does it will be good for the high pressure stuff.
Last edited by Avenger442; 12-20-2016 at 02:07 AM.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Nah have to pick up an oven and make a screen. And I'm casting mostly for rifle. Have my first cast loaded this past weekend and need to hit range. Probably next day or two I'm going to make more so I have something to PC.Scorpius
Yeah, I never intended to get into it. But I ended up with a couple of black powder rifles by some buying and trading. Still, I was going to sell them and someone got me interested in making my own black powder.......... and on it goes. Hitek coated .44s have worked good in the 44 mag cases with the black powder.
Didn't you say you have been doing some PC? So you already have the convection oven you have been using for it, right? So all you need is the powder, some acetone, couple of bowls to tumble in (one for each color), I use Cool Whip bowls, and some screens to dry on and bake.
Your going to love this stuff. Small learning curve. I think pistols are a little easier to work with than rifle. But I've only tried 38, 45 and 44. I cast mostly .308 and .44 for rifle. Have shot a few .223 with no problem. And do have some .303 cast and coated but have never loaded any. My sporterized WW II .303 Enfield has the typical case stretch problem. So have not tried to reloaded them. I'm about to start casting and coating for the 45-70. Ahhh sweet addiction.
Joe
I forgot, does the Gun Metal have the metal particles in it? If it does it will be good for the high pressure stuff.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I forgot, does the Gun Metal have the metal particles in it? If it does it will be good for the high pressure stuff.[/QUOTE]
Scorpius
Yes, the Gunmetal has what you require. So does the Texas Tea, and, they are both very dark after bake at 200C. If you under bake Gunmetal, it is a dark green colour.
I am also looking at a new Black, and aiming at a Black Pearl type finish.
I am hoping to get materials here in next week or so. In quiet time, I hope to get some work done.
There are also a couple of new hush hush colours in the development stages as well.
I will not say until I get some positive results.
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote
