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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #7141
    Boolit Bub
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    I enjoy the trouble shooting aspect of things. I tend to apply the scientific method the best I can to testing my loads, but when the base boolit won't cooperate then all the other variables applied go out the window. I didn't have these issues with .45acp and 200SWC microgroves, but we're also talking a dramatic difference between velocities, diameters, and pressures. I'll keep playing with the coating amounts to see if I'm just not applying enough to withstand what I'm asking of the boolit as that's my last vairable, but all signs are pointing to this boolit design not working out well for the 92G or P225. Thankfully there's other options out there, I just need to try them

  2. #7142
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    There is a fair bit of "wriggle room" in coating with Hitek, EXCEPT for one area.

    The Drying of the first thin coat is a must, no such thing as Over dried.


    I have coated and dried first coater and stored them for 3 weeks before baking. No issues. But baking before dry from skin to the lead surface WILL fail each and every time.


    The fact that +/- in temp by a few deg, or time. or tumble still allows you a positive result is one of the main things that makes this a viable home coating.
    Every batch you make will be slightly different but will still work. We all win.

    To reproduce the exact temp/time/coat et al, is for the most part beyond us with the equipment we use. If we had industrial standard equipment then consistence would be possible.

    Lucky for us, THAT much regulation is not required, due to the "wriggle room" that Joe has built into the coating and procedure.

    Have fun, coat lots, shoot em all!!!
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  3. #7143
    Boolit Master
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    I had poor results with all the micro groove TL Lee bullets.
    Get a nice Accurate Molds 135gn bullet with no lube groove and a nice big bevel base.
    His 35-135Z is a great bullet. works fine in 9mm and 38 Super.
    Tom makes bloody great molds.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  4. #7144
    Boolit Master
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    I forgot to mention.... Do not use the Lee Carbide factory crimp die on your 40 cal loads.
    It sizes the bullet too small and causes severe leading and poor accuracy. Use the dillon crimper or break the carbide sizer ring out of the die first.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  5. #7145
    Boolit Buddy Rompin Ruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    I forgot to mention.... Do not use the Lee Carbide factory crimp die on your 40 cal loads.
    It sizes the bullet too small and causes severe leading and poor accuracy. Use the dillon crimper or break the carbide sizer ring out of the die first.
    Oh, Crud...I JUST Ordered that 4 die set (with Lee FCD) from Amazon and should be here shortly...doh! The bulge buster die uses the Lee FCD too I believe I read? just different guts?

    I've seen your shop in vids you posted back a year or so ago... and other project you've done...YOU might have the expertise to break out the carbide ring, but not moi!

  6. #7146
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    Success (partial!)
    The good news is the batch I was experimenting with this morning went supurb through the Sig, and marginal (albiet better) on the Beretta. I have what appears to be fouling in the beretta and none in the sig, which has a smaller bore. I've been progressively adding more and more coating with the swirls to find the sweet spot, and how many bullets to swirl at a time, etc., and compared to last night's batch these are much closer to the color they are supposed to be. I think my biggest issue has been too little hitek with each coat.

    Anyway, the fouling didn't look like standard powder fouling, but it did clean right up so that means it's not lead. I've been loading at the bottom of the load spectrum using water dropped wheel weights, so I upped the charge to 4.2 (spec is 3.9-4.4). I'm hoping that this will flatten the base of the bullet upon exiting the case and create a better seal, which would mean full rifling engagement and no fouling. We'll see another day.

    Rompin, try doing it without the FCD and see how things fare. Then set up the die if needed so it barely kisses the cartridge and see how that impacts things. Worst case look at a standard taper crimp die and do your seating on a seperate die, and you'll be fine.
    Last edited by jeep45238; 05-07-2016 at 10:06 PM.

  7. #7147
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rompin Ruger View Post
    Oh, Crud...I JUST Ordered that 4 die set (with Lee FCD) from Amazon and should be here shortly...doh! The bulge buster die uses the Lee FCD too I believe I read? just different guts?

    I've seen your shop in vids you posted back a year or so ago... and other project you've done...YOU might have the expertise to break out the carbide ring, but not moi!
    Yep. the FCD gets the guts removed and used for the bulge buster. The carbide ring is easy to get out. just hit it with a pin punch and a hammer. it will shatter.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  8. #7148
    Boolit Buddy Rompin Ruger's Avatar
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    Ummm...but, but... LOL I didn't even GET the 4 die kit yet and you want me to do what??? SEnt you PM... seems the whole Bulge buster set up won't work without that carbide ring in the FCD... :0

  9. #7149
    Boolit Master
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    PM sent..
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #7150
    Boolit Buddy Rompin Ruger's Avatar
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    Thanks, Trev. Got it... now to find the "normal taper crimp die"... Doh!

  11. #7151
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeep45238 View Post
    Success (partial!)
    The good news is the batch I was experimenting with this morning went supurb through the Sig, and marginal (albiet better) on the Beretta. I have what appears to be fouling in the beretta and none in the sig, which has a smaller bore.
    Anyway, the fouling didn't look like standard powder fouling, but it did clean right up so that means it's not lead. I've been loading at the bottom of the load spectrum using water dropped wheel weights, so I upped the charge to 4.2 (spec is 3.9-4.2). I'm hoping that this will flatten the base of the bullet upon exiting the case and create a better seal, which would mean full rifling engagement and no fouling. We'll see another day.
    I size 358 for the beretta, and it comes out crystal clean, and size 356 for the wifes 1911 S&W.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  12. #7152
    Boolit Master
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    I have 3 people in my club with Berettas and they all use .358 for their 9mm reloads. anything smaller, leads and has **** accuracy.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  13. #7153
    Boolit Bub
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    Got to test my 105 swc cast with 3 light coats of zombie green powdered version havnt checked the barrel but got great acuracy shot from 25 meters standing 2.7-2.8g As30n sized to .356 from my sti 9mm edge with 6 pound recoil spring and shock buff.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/885g8slqgu...04838.jpg?dl=0

  14. #7154
    Boolit Master
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    good job, Damo.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  15. #7155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    good job, Damo.
    Thanks trev shame i cant shoot like that more consistantly lol.

  16. #7156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    I have 3 people in my club with Berettas and they all use .358 for their 9mm reloads. anything smaller, leads and has **** accuracy.
    Unfortuantely most of mine are smaller than that in the microgroves, but the bottom most portion varies from .359 to .362 (*** Lee). A nice gentleman is sending me some other samples that range from .358-.360. Those 105 SWC from the STI are bullets I have my eyes on hopefully working to stretch out my lead supply a bit more, and man do they leave some clean holes!

  17. #7157
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeep45238 View Post
    Unfortuantely most of mine are smaller than that in the microgroves, but the bottom most portion varies from .359 to .362 (*** Lee). A nice gentleman is sending me some other samples that range from .358-.360. Those 105 SWC from the STI are bullets I have my eyes on hopefully working to stretch out my lead supply a bit more, and man do they leave some clean holes!
    Jeep i got a 2nd 105swc mold because they are so good my mate has used them in his semis and revolvers sized 358 and 356 with great accuracy so if your alloy is right they will perform a worth while investment.

  18. #7158
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    buldge busting set-up, ausglock: Harborfreight 1 ton arbor press.





    This table leg is bolted in concrete with 1/2" bolt and a red head. Took forever to drill concrete. I did it for loadmaster to the right of this arbor press.

    Custom punches and l can gas check too with this arbor.



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    Last edited by gunoil; 05-10-2016 at 09:55 PM.

  19. #7159
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    Nice....
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  20. #7160
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    [QUOTE=gunoil;3642673]buldge busting set-up, ausglock: Harborfreight 1 ton arbor press.





    This table leg is bolted in concrete with 1/2" bolt and a red head. Took forever to drill concrete. I did it for loadmaster to the right of this arbor press.

    Custom punches and l can gas check too with this arbor.



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    Great piece of machinery. I could put that on a display cabinet at my place. It would be a great conversation starter...lol...lol

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check