Is the brown copper color still availeble? The sites I have seen they are not an option.
Does anyone have a picture of that color? Finished coated bullets?
Is the brown copper color still availeble? The sites I have seen they are not an option.
Does anyone have a picture of that color? Finished coated bullets?
Tried my first shot at coating today, used old gold. They pass the rub test, pass the fingernail test, and other than the bubbles, they pass the smash test. However, they miserably fail the 'look like a coated boolit' test. I know they weren't dry, as they bubbled within minutes of being placed in the oven. Does that really make them look this bad?
I've also found that my little oven's temp wanders all over the place. Can I go a few degrees cooler and add a little time? I caught it wandering nearly 50 degrees in the last half of the bake time. First half it held within 15 degrees of 390ish.
Interesting finish.
The impression I get is, in two areas of problems,
1. You added far too much coating on first coat, and shook far too long causing that lumpy appearance.
2. You also may have not dried it adequately, and with thick application, the coating would not be dry, despite it seeming to be dry.
Bubbling is directly due to trapped solvent/moisture. This moisture, with heat, lifts coating from alloy, coating bakes OK but is not bonded well at all.
Lumps. trapped in coating after bake is normally due shaking coating for far too long and until coating has become sticky and starts to form sticky lumps. When it is dumped for drying, after alleged drying, and baked, these lumps will not flatten out and remain as finish you have achieved.
Too much coating, check. Shook until sticky, check. Looked dry but bubbled, check.
So is it coat, coat, bake or coat, bake, coat, bake?
These were cast into a cold mold, so they just go back in the pot. Might have some 38s laying around also cast wrong that I can practice again on.
Right on.
First coat, use only about 6mls (of 20g/100ml mixture) to 250 bullets.
Shake quickly, 10-15 seconds and just enough to coat. The dump onto drying mesh and leave to dry, (dont touch). Depending on ambient conditions this can be from 15-20 minutes to 24 hours or more.
Get a few, and bake them at 200C for 10 minutes. If they cook OK and pass all tests, do the rest.
If they fail, dry further, and may be warm air dry, with hair drier or similar, (not near solvents)
Cook a few more and compare with first few.
If all is OK cook the rest, but dont over fill oven as they wont bake correctly or evenly, and they will take much longer to cook .
Last edited by HI-TEK; 05-05-2016 at 01:56 AM.
What causes some bullets to stick together? Happen when you stop shaking to soon on coating? Also notice some people us 1mil per pound but 3mils per 1KG that is not equal.
Sgtonory,
Sticking together is caused by adding far too much coating, which causes fusion of two or more during bake.
Shaking for not long enough, you simply have coating left in your shake coat container without it coating all projectiles.
Not a problem.
Using different amounts really is up to user. What works, stick to it.
People also use different mix ratios, and what they feel is suitable for the coating system they adopt.
Our general advice on coating with 20g powder 100mls Acetone mixture, is to use 6mls for each coat, to about 250 projectiles.
If you use less or more will greatly depend on users proficiency with coating technique.
General rule of thumb is to use, especially with first coat, the minimum amount just to barely coat.
This avoids drying problems, reduced welding together problems during bake. and reduces failures due to inadequate drying of thickly applied films.
Last edited by HI-TEK; 05-05-2016 at 09:40 AM.
Just got my zombie green powder in this week (easy to find any spilled bullets if someone knocks ammo off the bench at a match - it happens). Found a nice convection toaster oven with 2 racks and a 16x16" interior footprint with digital temp control for $40 locally. After that it's just needing acetone (unless low odor mineral spirits work..I doubt it).
Anyway, I didn't see anything in the instructions about having to use a mesh style tray that most people on here are using. Would there be any problems with running the solid bottom trays that most toaster ovens come with?
I was looking around on youtube and found a video that included hi-tek coating. Check it out. Type Bullet Casting Done Right in the search box. Pretty spiffy!
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
Roger, thanks. I snagged some 1/2 inch mesh (smallest locally available) and will be doing two layers, one at a 45 degree angle under the other. With the convection that should help a lot with airflow and heat distribution.
If you have a multi-meter double check your oven temp to make sure it is correct (probably causes more problems than anything else) Don't go by the dial or those little round oven thermometers.You can buy a multi-meter in the automotive section at wal-mart for around twenty bucks. Not my idea,some smart dude on here came up with that one.
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
How would I use a multimeter to check temps? Last I knew they're good for volts, amps, and ohms.
You can buy one that will check temperature. It comes with a thermocouple. Thin coated wire that will slide in between the door and door seal. You can check your temp inside with the unit outside.
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
i snagged my wife's cooking thermometer, it's a nice one with a thermocouple and will read up to 393F. I set mine for 375 and it held steady at 372-373, so I'm confident in it's ability to hold temp.
I already have 2 multimeters, so if there's a simple way to rig a thermocouple to existing ones and measure resistance or voltage for a given temp, I'd rig it up and keep it next to the oven.
Make sure that your wife does not get that thermometer back,Once it is exposed to the fumes of curing hi-tek it will not be fit for food preparation. Go buy her a new one.
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
This was in a brand new unused oven, nothing in it, so no worries. Thanks for the heads up just in case though!
I definitely would not use mineral spirits. It is not the same chemical as acetone. Have not tried the solid bottom tray that came with my oven, but I found some 1/4" hardware cloth that I made some 11x15" trays that work great. I also use them when I shake the coating on and pour the boolits out. I stack the trays crossways of each other and use a fan blowing them. So far I can bake in about 15 minutes after coating.
I have not used the gold powder, but have used the Zombi Green and Candy Apple Red. Very light coats seem to be what works best for me. I squirt it out of a clear condiment bottle that costs less than a dollar. I put 2 table spoons of powder to 3.5 oz of acetone and that is the best ratio I've used.
The gold boolit above looks to me like too much powder in the mix. I shake in a plastic container with a top and do it for about 20 seconds with the top on and about 10 more after I remove it and quickly pour into the tray. The great thing about this coating is if you screw it up you can recycle the lead and only lose a little powder.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |